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SC Club Moderator
Part number 0389823 is for the complete reed plate assembly. www.marineengine.com shows they have 10 in stock. Yes the reed that broke went into the engine and probably went out the exhaust port.
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I ended up finding one off an old motor here in town. Now just waiting for the gaskets and reed valves to come in and should be on the water by this weekend I'm hoping! 
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SC Club Moderator
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So I installed the new reed valves and the maintnence valve. The motor starts great, then idles okay for about 30-45 seconds then dies down and shuts off. Starts right back up again and I can get it going after a couple tries then it runs great, faster then ever at wot. I also found out my bouncing tach was because of a bad battery. I changed the battery and the tach works great again. Just not sure about the idle issue.
I did the link and sync as best I could as per the sticky but I don’t have the tool to do a proper link n synk.
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SC Club Moderator
Send Jughead a PM he builds and sells an ignition analyzer that works as good if not better than the factory tool even has instructions.
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So I finally got the ignition analyzer yesterday (living in Canada shipping takes a while). I did the timing tonight and took it out for a test ride. It started good, idled pretty good, took it for a run and ran great at wot. Stopped to see how it idles after and it was a bit rough, it would studder every once and a while. I noticed in gear it would idle at about 600rpm in gear. I assume I just need to raise the idle a bit?
To raise the idle just bump the low idle a click or 2 towards the + on the detent?
I was looking at the old threads about heat soak and although it’s not heat soak because it isn’t that warm here yet but the symptoms sound some what similar. Would it be worth it to try turning idle screws out a bit?
Last edited by McGinnis_Fishing16; 05-31-2018 at 08:03 PM.
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SC Club Moderator
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Just adjusted and took it out for a run and it ran awesome! Idle was a lot better! I think I still need to do some minor adjustments. The one start it bogged down so I pressed the choke and it died. I awesome it was flooding, as soon as I put it in high idle then brought it back down it was fine. so I probably need to turn the idle adjust screws in a bit.
One last question: I turned all the idle screws in to see how many turns out they were first. Carb 1,2,5,6 were all at 5 turns so I came out a half turn with them. But carbs 3 and 4 were 6 1/2 turns out so I just left those ones where they were. Is this normal for the middle carbs to be out more? I’m going to try going in a half turn with those ones just because the motor was flooded a bit that one time.
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SC Club Moderator
Hard to say, you've got a starting point and then tweak from there.
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Thanks for all your help ChampioNman! I appreciate it very much! 
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Glad you got the timer. Try to keep the idle timing at 6 degree's ATDC and adjust the carb idle screws. It would be better if all carbs were set the same. Idle should be checked in the water, in forward gear, boat unrestrained. After adjusting the carbs, take off and run the boat for a few minutes, at least 4000 RPM, then slow down to idle and see how it idles. If needed adjust the carbs and repeat. I like to see these motors idle around 800 RPM, In gear, if it idles great at 700 that's good too. The higher idle helps on any hesitation problems. Bear in mind a higher pitch prop will slow the idle and a lower pitch prop will raise the idle, with the heat we have here I use a lower pitch prop in the summer.
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Hey Jerry! Yes I did thank you very much. The timer is awesome, makes it super easy to set the timing properly. I will even out the idle adjustment screws on the middle carbs then adjust accordingly. Thank you for all the help from both of you, I ran the boat yesterday and it ran perfect all day long
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