Putting in the screws of the deck, after the new carpet is already done .....

[AdamW]

I have a Lowe Fish & Ski boat and am recarpeting the bow casting deck and hatch lids.

The lids are easy. Carpet gluing to the aluminum lids is done.

The casting desk is plywood screwed down to the frame. When I tore out the old carpet I thought "how the heck where these screws put in since the carpet was overtop of the screws and 100% hidden?".

Anyone have any tips on how I put the screws in after the plywood is already carpeted (like they did in the factory)? The factory carpet wrapped around the edge of the plywood and was stapled on. It was not glued. I plan on doing the same thing when I carpet the plywood this week. All I can guess is small cuts were put into the carpet where the screw holes are (they must have had a template) and the screws were put in through the small cuts in the carpet. Over time the carpet blends together and those small cuts are invisible.

Thanks

[CastingCall]

I would glue the carpet down so you don't get wrinkles or bunching that can cause tripping.
You could put nails or screws in the existing holes in the plywood, carpet up to them, pull each screw and reinstall as soon as you cover the hole. Then when you're ready to install the wood, you know exactly where the holes are.

[arjone01]

Just find them with a stick pin and go. They'll pretty much bury themselves. A lot of fiberglass boats have pieces installed this way.

[AdamW]

Thanks for the input. My intent is to do the same as it came out of the factory. The carpet was wrapped around the 6x4 piece of cut plywood and stapled on the underside. The carpet wasn't loose or could bunch up at all. In fact, I thought it was glued down until I started to rip it out last fall.

A friend that has experience with this commented that a small slit in the carpet and then put the screw through into the pre-drilled holes. The carpet would 'close up' and the slit wouldn't be noticable. That was his comment to me when I asked 'how in the world would they have put the screws in when the carpet appears to have been installed first'. This would be more in line with arjone01 comment.

[Scott S.]

The screws will punch through the carpet, just put some tape on the sides to mark the bulk heads that you will be sinking the new screws into.

[Coyotehunter1]

I used a pointed soldering Iron, melted right though and cleared the hole out.

[AdamW]

Thanks again for input.

If I use a soldering iron, then the screws will be visible. The factory install had the screws under the carpet and completely hidden. It looked like the screws were put in before the carpet was laid (which isn't possible in this case).

[Hoss Triton]

FWIW: just a tip to give longevity/strength to your plywood decking. While you have it exposedbefore recarpeting, use a thin coat of fiberglass resin to "seal" it. It also wil help fill in previous holes & tighten up the thread bite when putting screws back in. Use a paint brush to spread a thin layer & let it dry. Its ready in about 6 hrs to continue work. Glue sticks to it well if you want to use it in small amounts over large span areas to help keep it tight.

[kry29]

Thanks for the input. My intent is to do the same as it came out of the factory. The carpet was wrapped around the 6x4 piece of cut plywood and stapled on the underside. The carpet wasn't loose or could bunch up at all. In fact, I thought it was glued down until I started to rip it out last fall.

A friend that has experience with this commented that a small slit in the carpet and then put the screw through into the pre-drilled holes. The carpet would 'close up' and the slit wouldn't be noticable. That was his comment to me when I asked 'how in the world would they have put the screws in when the carpet appears to have been installed first'. This would be more in line with arjone01 comment.

I did the aluminum boat I had like your friend. Cut a small slit and then put some glue over the screw to hold the carpet over it. Worked great