Thread: 2d in hull puck

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  1. #1
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    2d in hull puck

    so the boat I bought a few months back has one dead center of the hull and when im running its not reading, im going to try and relocate it alittle of to the side, is there any tricks to removing it from the hull and getting the old epoxy of the puck so it wont get damaged
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    #2
    In hull, or shoot thru? If it's an in hull, you're going to have to patch the hole..

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    #3
    Shoot thru
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    #4
    In all honesty, your BEST bet is going to be to buy another ducer and leave that one where it is. That epoxy is nasty stuff.

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    #5
    That’s my idea also, I have an extra on hand, my guess is that person just mounted it without testing it,
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by j archer View Post
    That’s my idea also, I have an extra on hand, my guess is that person just mounted it without testing it,
    And now you know why you shouldn't do that. :D

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    #7
    As soon as I get a little speed going my fishfinder depth alarm goes off, my old boat worked fine
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    #8
    no no no - I meant why you shouldn't mount it without testing. Shoot-thru works fine on glass boats - had it on both my glass boats.
    Last edited by exx1976; 04-16-2018 at 03:40 PM.

  9. Member Wayne P.'s Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by exx1976 View Post
    no no no - I meant why you shouldn't mount it without testing. Thru-hull works fine on glass boats - had it on both my glass boats.
    SHOOT-THRU, not thru-hull. Two different installations.
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne P. View Post
    SHOOT-THRU, not thru-hull. Two different installations.

    You are absolutely correct. I made the same mistake I originally questioned in this thread. D'OH!!

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    #11
    so im guessing if I try and chip it out it will destroy it? with the wires being ran already it would be nice to try it
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  12. Member Wayne P.'s Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by j archer View Post
    so im guessing if I try and chip it out it will destroy it? with the wires being ran already it would be nice to try it
    You may or may not damage it during removal. The best way is to chip away all the access epoxy from around it, put a piece of wood against the side of it and whack the piece of wood with a hammer. Should pop loose.
    Wayne Purdum
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne P. View Post
    The best way is to chip away all the access epoxy from around it, put a piece of wood against the side of it and whack the piece of wood with a hammer. Should pop loose.
    +10

    2lb sledge makes it really easy if you can get it to it.

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    #14
    im not to worried about damage to the puck ive got an extra, but if I can get it loose and maybe grind as much as I can off the puck and put where it needs to be and take it to the lake for a test run too make sure it is reading saves time from running new puck wires and having to remove my seat to run the cable.
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  15. Member Meleagris1's Avatar
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    #15
    I would leave the old puck in the hull too. Regarding the new one in my last 3 boats I have skipped using epoxy and instead use Duct Seal electrical putty to mount the 2D pucks in the hull. Its easy to use, adhesion is excellent and you can sit on the water and easily test multiple locations with it until you find the best reading. I get results that are at least as good as an epoxied transducer and the putty is not affected by water or temps. Kayak guys have also learned this trick. This is the only way I mount in hull transducers now.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-1-...FZKlyAodi9IO4g
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Meleagris1 View Post
    I would leave the old puck in the hull too. Regarding the new one in my last 3 boats I have skipped using epoxy and instead use Duct Seal electrical putty to mount the 2D pucks in the hull. Its easy to use, adhesion is excellent and you can sit on the water and easily test multiple locations with it until you find the best reading. I get results that are at least as good as an epoxied transducer and the putty is not affected by water or temps. Kayak guys have also learned this trick. This is the only way I mount in hull transducers now.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-1-...FZKlyAodi9IO4g

    Now that is interesting. How thick of layer do you use between the hull and the puck? do you also pack it around the outside of the puck?

  17. Member Meleagris1's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Whistler View Post
    Now that is interesting. How thick of layer do you use between the hull and the puck? do you also pack it around the outside of the puck?
    I start with an amount of duct seal that is about the size of a large egg but smaller than a tennis ball. Then I push the transducer down so that the amount of putty between the transducer and hull is pretty thin, then I take the excess that gets pressed out around the edge and mold it against the transducer base to seal it and so water drains away. Its not hard at all and the nice thing is you can watch your graph while you are making these adjustments and literally see the image improve or degrade with each small adjustment, which lets you get the best location and image possible.
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  18. Member railey's Avatar
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    #18
    I always thought whatever you used had to be clear.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by railey View Post
    I always thought whatever you used had to be clear.

    Why would you think that? Is your hull clear?