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You need a "torque adapter", not a "crows foot".
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Thank you Savage I will come up with one. I assume since the original gasket was dry cleanup won’t be too terrible? Maybe I could get by with just a plastic scraper and no polishing or solvents? Thanks again for all your help I have done head gaskets before on older less expensive motors but never a powerhead gasket.
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If it is the original gasket on there now removal will be very difficult......they always are.
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To my knowledge it is the original gasket. Do you have any removal and cleanup tips? I was told plastic scraper, then MEK solvent, then more plastic scraper, then MEK and very fine Scotch Brite pad. I don’t know enough to know if that is good advice or not...
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Use no power tools.
Don't damage the surfaces.
Don't be in a hurry.
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I won’t have access to a cherry picker until Sunday but I went ahead and broke the powerhead bolts loose tonight. Two things were concerning, I went in reverse torque sequence and 9 and 10 under cylinder 6 were some of the tighter ones whereas some of the others were surprisingly loose, and when I got to #1 water poured out. Should I be concerned about the water or would the powerhead gasket be the fix for that and I’m replacing it anyway?
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I am in desperate need of advice on how to get the old end cap if anyone has any helpful suggestions
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I was able to get it off but the seal lips look great. Is there anything else that needs to be checked? Does the oring below the crank have any significance?
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Is there a need to retorque powerhead bolts after a few hours of run time?
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Thanks again Savage and Joe for all the assistance and thanks to Rhonda and Don to getting the correct parts to me before the weekend
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