I agree they really need to redo the wiring instructions for optimal performance. People are sending in units that don't have any issues but being underpowered.
Instructions on global setting need to be redone as well.
I agree they really need to redo the wiring instructions for optimal performance. People are sending in units that don't have any issues but being underpowered.
Instructions on global setting need to be redone as well.
I agree.....it's tough to wade through everything. I have read the user manual twice and keep a printed copy on board for reference, but I have learned more about this particular issue from those contributing to this site. Hopefully after making a few changes, I'll have it whooped and can just go fishing again. Fingers crossed....
The unit is a lot different than when it came out due to some software updates. An original manual could only be used for basic knowledge, not current operation.
Wayne Purdum
Charlottesville, Va.
Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL
Got my boat tore apart, ready to pull wire and cables, but still on the fence ,,,,, Solix or Helix.
I am really leaning toward Helix from what I been hearing.
I want to know if all those setting changes/selections that Troyboy posted would need to apply to the Helix units as well or is that a Solix only thing?
Is the Solix just more susceptible to flaking out without all the fine tuning than the Helix would be, if all else were equal......wiring, setup, etc.
"ain't too smart.....but I'm always thinkin"
Does your display look like this?
A lot of this is being hyped up. i have ran Helix and Solix/Onix..Hard to beat the Solix Onix.Originally Posted by Corkpuller
If you want simple and fishabilty Helix for sure. If you want the best of everything Solix. Both choices are good.
Yeah I get that part.
But I don’t want to be on the lake pissed because of high tech.
As I’m looking this over the fact of the Solix being able to share a heading sensor will save me some wiring, another pucking puck, as well as the Ethernet adapters. Dunno if the cost outweighs the extra hassle of rigging, especially if it comes with heartache.
"ain't too smart.....but I'm always thinkin"
Regardless of which units you decide on, since you're an HB noob I'd suggest that you initially run the units not networked (run all the cables, just don't connect one to a unit) until you are comfortable with how they work on a standalone basis. Networking adds a layer of complexity that can make diagnosis difficult and frustrating.
2013 Ranger Z520c, 2013 Yamaha 250 SHO
2018 Ranger RT198p, 2013 Mercury 150 Optimax
Honest opinion, If I had it to do over.....I'm not sure what I would do. At the time I wanted the best of the best, so the Solix units were very attractive to me.....and they still are, but I have had a very hard time getting it to function properly in shallow water and I have had to spend a lot more time and money rigging and troubleshooting these units. I did prepay for my units the day after they were released, so having early serial numbers could have had an impact I suppose. I'm not sure if that is the case or not, but it is frustrating when you watch the you tube videos and see that some users are obviously not having the same issues that I am. There are cases where these units are functioning perfectly and there are cases where the users are struggling with the same thing that I am. I have not ruled out that it may be the operator/installer and I have been working very hard to trouble shoot the issues I am experiencing. In the end, if I can get a handle on what is causing this shallow water lock up, I would be satisfied with the Solix. The Helix on the other hand, based on cost, performance and power draw would have been a good choice for me as well and having two Helix units at the console in stead of one Solix may have been a better decision. Time will tell I guess. I have noticed that most of the pros are choosing this option and I can't help but wonder what is driving that. It could be that Humminbird is pushing them to do so, or it could be that they are making this decision based on other factors, who knows....but I would think that more guys would be running a flagship model if price wasn't necessarily included in the decision making process.....then again, who knows....
Last edited by plains angler; 04-17-2018 at 09:32 AM.
Baldguy0722, generally speaking my side and down imaging stops scrolling all together when the 2D is searching for bottom and will not scroll again until it finds it....usually when I get back into deeper water. It is hard to tell from your screen shot, but it appears to be doing that as well. Some will say it looks like interference, but to me it looks like your unit is doing the same thing as mine, its just finding bottom intermittently and therefore creating the vertical lines.
if you're interested in a solix 15, message me. I'll make you a deal. One month old and never registered. Comes with y cable, puck transducer, and transom transducer and shield saver.
Yep, same here (but with no vertical lines just locks up AND stops scrolling).................doesn't happen all the time but enough times to piss you off. I have made some setting changes in the last couple of weeks and hopefully when I get back on the water this week it works. I will give it till the next update or end of summer...................if things don't work out Ill go back back to Lowrance Carbons. I have never had issues with Lowrance LCX, HDS, OR CARBONS in 15 years .
is there a situation that i can try to recreate and get a video showing what my unit does for you guys? If anyone is close enough to lanier, I'd be happy to get out on the water for some testing/training if needed
Sending you a PM Troy
________________________________________________
2024 Phoenix 21 XE - Mercury 250 PRO XS Serial #3B429919
2017 Phoenix PHX 21 - Yamaha 250 SHO
2010 Skeeter 20i - Yamaha 250 SHO
1988 Procraft 1780 Competitor - Mercury 100
Troy, this may not be possible for you, but one scenario that has consistently been a problem for me is trying to video game crappie on brush during the winter. Lats say for example, the depth is 20 foot and the crappie are holding on the top of a pile at 13 foot. I can see fish on side imaging and can see the fish off the edges of the pile on 2D over deeper water, but the second I get over the fish up on top....boom, it locks up. If I slide back off the pile it returns to normal. If I set the max depth to 15 foot, I can get on the pile without causing it to lock up again, but then the image is really grainy or pixelated almost like it is zooming in on that depth making it very hard to see anything in any detail, including my jig. With the range adjusted like I have just described, it is still jumping depths in the data bar, but the image is steady. Clear mode is on and sensitivity adjustments, sonar frequency changes and surface clarity have not helped much. Turning off chirp doesn't help either. This is just one example, but basically any time I am in water less then 12 or 13 feet, the unit will lock up and I have zero imaging. No SI, Di, or 2D. I am fishing a national team championship tournament for walleye on the Mississippi river in May and I'm seriously worried that I will not be able to scan wing dams or shallow rock piles on side imaging, which can be a huge part of the program up there. As far as that goes, any time I leave the channel I may lose imaging depending on the depth....its all pretty shallow in places. I need to get out and test, but have decided to wait for my electrical upgrades to come in before I try it again. Should get out later in the week....
Troy, I think a comprehensive list of ALL settings that you use (or wayne p. or any of the other guys whos units work great) for network, 2d, di, si, setup ect ect would be a great help. I realize it may take some time to type out but it may prove to be invaluable for those of us who are dealing with depth, screen lock up ect issues.
It would provide a great baseline to determine if our settings are out of whack, or possible install problem or even malfunctioning unit that needs to be sent back. It would also make a great sticky for the hummingbird forum.
One thing I found out the hard way is that when I turned off all my "auto configs" , is that you have to do it to every unit manually. Doing one unit does no good when networking.
that's an easy one for me. i love over the top of brush piles. I've never has those issues but I'll try to get a quick video this weekend. I run 200 khz only, max mode with sensitivity about 2-3 and choose a color pallet. everything else is default.
just fyi both of my units are set up the same as far as global settings and source settings. the only difference is the source selections are different on each unit. I wanted my units to be totally seperate as far as settings and basically only share mapping, heading and way points
Once you confirm that your wiring is adequate, I would suggest that you begin by disconnecting everything from the main unit except the transducer & external gps antenna if you are using one. No ethernet, no multiple unit network, ipilot link etc. Set the main unit up with Troys settings & determine if the transducer is operating correctly on the different modes & frequencies & at different depths. If it is working correctly, then go on to establishing a network using Troys settings. This sequence will determine if there is a problem with the main Solix unit or transducer (assuming that the power source is adequate). One other suggestion. Once the multi unit network is setup, I always turn the ethernet switch on before powering up the main head unit. Then I power up the other units & accessories. I have had problems if I power up the head units before the ethernet is on. I don't have a clue why this is.
It sounds to me like you may have changed the *Range* from auto to 15 feet. Try turning the *max depth* to a little more than the deepest in the lake. The difference between the two is that Max Depth is telling the unit that the lake cannot be any deeper than that setting. This is essentially as deep as it will listen for an echo back from the bottom. The Range, which is adjusted on the actual sonar pane is just how deep you want to view. For example, if you Max Depth is on auto, range is set to 40 feet, and you are in 100 fow, you will only see 40 feet deep in the water column, but the unit will still be pinging and listening to the 100 feet mark.
To adjust the max depth, you need to do the following:
1. Go to home page
2. Settings
3. CHIRP Sonar on the left
4. Sonar Source
5. With 2D Sonar highlighted, click Initial Setup
6. At the bottom, you will see Max Depth. Turn auto off, and change to be a little more than the deepest part of your lake.
I run my max depth at about 200 ft.
Feel free to PM me with questions.
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