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  1. #1
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    Replacing Ranger '07 520vx Trailer Fenders

    I got my new fenders from Ranger today. Any pointers or feedback on replacing the fenders? I have to re-use the carpeted backboard from the existing fenders and the metal step that is located between the two tires. Everything else is new.

    Any pointers or words of advice would be greatly appreciated. I tried to look up some videos but couldn't find any.

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    #2
    It’s a lot easier if the boat is off the trailer. The bottom of the fender boards is riveted to the frame. With the boat off,you can use a 1/4” bit to drill of the head of the rivets and then drive them through. There are some hidden bolt heads under the step pads so you might as well go ahead and remove the rubber mats to access them. You might have to cut some of the light wires so have some heat shrink butt splices handy. Other than that,it’s pretty much straight forward.

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    #3
    I don’t think doing it with the boat off the trailer is likely to happen. As for the bolt heads under the rubber mats....how do I access them on the new fenders? I don’t want to have to peel off the new rubber mats on them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rip Bass View Post
    It’s a lot easier if the boat is off the trailer. The bottom of the fender boards is riveted to the frame. With the boat off,you can use a 1/4” bit to drill of the head of the rivets and then drive them through. There are some hidden bolt heads under the step pads so you might as well go ahead and remove the rubber mats to access them. You might have to cut some of the light wires so have some heat shrink butt splices handy. Other than that,it’s pretty much straight forward.

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    #4
    The mount bolts are a carriage type, nothing to grab.
    Mike

    2019 Ranger 520L w/ 250HO ETEC G2
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  5. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #5
    You can do it at the ramp with the boat off a whole lot easier. Did mine about 10 years ago on a 520. Just make sure you have all the right tools with you. Just curious, how much are they now and how long did it take to get them. I'm gonna need one thanks to a fellow boater who hit my right side in the parking lot !! Yeah, no note left either !! POS SOB
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by blkfalc4 View Post
    The mount bolts are a carriage type, nothing to grab.
    True,but he will be lucky if the bolt heads don’t turn in the fender holes. To the op,they might be shipped without the pads in place. If not,the bolts heads in a new fender are likely secure enough not to slip. I think they are epoxied into the holes.

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    You can do it at the ramp with the boat off a whole lot easier. Did mine about 10 years ago on a 520. Just make sure you have all the right tools with you. Just curious, how much are they now and how long did it take to get them. I'm gonna need one thanks to a fellow boater who hit my right side in the parking lot !! Yeah, no note left either !! POS SOB
    They were approx. $575 each with LED lights installed and NO backboard and $125 to ship to KY. They said 6 to 8 weeks but he then said you will probably get them much quicker. I got mine in 3 weeks.

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    #8
    Do they offer any option where they come with the backs on them with carpet installed?
    2005 Ranger Z21 2005 Mercury Optimax 250XS Serial#OT999281 25P Mercury Tempest +

  9. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by kyfisherman1 View Post
    They were approx. $575 each with LED lights installed and NO backboard and $125 to ship to KY. They said 6 to 8 weeks but he then said you will probably get them much quicker. I got mine in 3 weeks.
    Thanks !!
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by CxThree View Post
    Do they offer any option where they come with the backs on them with carpet installed?
    you can buy them with the carpeted backboards. They said typically you can reuse yours and save a few hundred dollars. They said that “it’s not hard to do”.

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    #11
    The lights have quick connects between the fender and trailer. So no need to cut them, and to remove the fender it unbolts on the front and a couple bolts on the back with one large bolt in the middle. Place a jack under one axle and remove the wheel and the. Drill out the rivits from under the fender. Then replace wheel and swap axles and repeat. It will take about 30 minutes to remove each fender. You can also order new carpet for the fender bunks and replace it while the backboard is off the fender. I also recommend using stainless bolts and locking nuts to replace the backboard. Tighten them enough and they will sink into the carpet and will never touch the boat and hold the backboard on much better.

  12. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Grits and gravy View Post
    The lights have quick connects between the fender and trailer. So no need to cut them, and to remove the fender it unbolts on the front and a couple bolts on the back with one large bolt in the middle. Place a jack under one axle and remove the wheel and the. Drill out the rivits from under the fender. Then replace wheel and swap axles and repeat. It will take about 30 minutes to remove each fender. You can also order new carpet for the fender bunks and replace it while the backboard is off the fender. I also recommend using stainless bolts and locking nuts to replace the backboard. Tighten them enough and they will sink into the carpet and will never touch the boat and hold the backboard on much better.
    THIS^^^ without question.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

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    #13
    Thanks for all the great input. I have a few more questions before jumping in..............

    (1) my current fenders have a metal step between the two tires. The new fenders did not include one so I assume that the existing metal step should be able to be removed and re-used. Can anyone verify that or do I need to order new metal steps? The boat is in a storage facility that isn't close by or I would go check that.

    (2) Ranger sent me rivets to use to re-install the carpeted backboard. Do I need any type of special “rivet” tool to re-install the rivets?

    (3) What type of carpet should I use if I need to replace my backboard carpet and were would you suggest I purchase it?
    Last edited by kyfisherman1; 04-18-2018 at 08:19 AM.

  14. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by kyfisherman1 View Post
    Thanks for all the great input. I have a few more questions before jumping in..............

    (1) my current fenders have a metal step between the two tires. The new fenders did not include one so I assume that the existing metal step should be able to be removed and re-used. Can anyone verify that or do I need to order new metal steps? The boat is in a storage facility that isn't close by or I would go check that.

    (2) Ranger sent me rivets to use to re-install the carpeted backboard. Do I need any type of special “rivet” tool to re-install the rivets?

    (3) What type of carpet should I use if I need to replace my backboard carpet and were would you suggest I purchase it?
    Do yourself a BIG favor and don't use those rivets to install the carpeted backboard. Without a heavy duty tool to install them, you won't get them tight enough. And, even the rivets installed at the factory loosen over a couple years. The carpeted backboard is a structural part of the fender and when it gets loose, the fender will vibrate and flex, causing the clear coat to crack. Instead, use stainless or brass bolts, nylock nuts, and big fender washers. When you tighten down the bolts, the heads will pull down into the carpet so they won't scratch the boat. Thsi will save you a lot of headaches down the road.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

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    #15
    I recently removed my fenders to do some rust repair on the trailer frame, did it with the boat on trailer in my garage (really no option, still Winter here!). It was not difficult to remove or reinstall and I'm an amateur. Drilled out rivets along bottom of boards that held it on to frame (carefully but wasn't really close to boat hull). Had two bolts at front of fender, one at rear, and three of the carriage bolts under step pads. Two of the carriage bolts spun in the fiberglass under the pad, so I had to cut pad and find a way to anchor the bolt to remove nut, but I got them off. I epoxied them back on/in to the fiberglass for reinstall, they don't need to be over tightened with the nylock nuts. Replaced rivets for mounting to frame with stainless bolts, I used flat/pan screws and cap washers on the carpeted side and fender washers on frame side with nylock nuts. Definitely helpful to have a helper to hold fender for alignment on reinstall. I'd say difficulty level of 1.5 out of 10. Good luck!
    2004 Ranger 619VS

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    #16
    It seems that many people have done it with the boat on the trailer. I contacted Ranger to get some input and the head of the trailer division at Ranger said “there is no way you will be able to do it correctly with the boat on the trailer”.I am going to call him back today or tomorrow to ask him what issues I would face doing it with the boat on the trailer.He was giving some specific details but I was driving and couldn’t take notes.


    Quote Originally Posted by mibassranger View Post
    I recently removed my fenders to do some rust repair on the trailer frame, did it with the boat on trailer in my garage (really no option, still Winter here!). It was not difficult to remove or reinstall and I'm an amateur. Drilled out rivets along bottom of boards that held it on to frame (carefully but wasn't really close to boat hull). Had two bolts at front of fender, one at rear, and three of the carriage bolts under step pads. Two of the carriage bolts spun in the fiberglass under the pad, so I had to cut pad and find a way to anchor the bolt to remove nut, but I got them off. I epoxied them back on/in to the fiberglass for reinstall, they don't need to be over tightened with the nylock nuts. Replaced rivets for mounting to frame with stainless bolts, I used flat/pan screws and cap washers on the carpeted side and fender washers on frame side with nylock nuts. Definitely helpful to have a helper to hold fender for alignment on reinstall. I'd say difficulty level of 1.5 out of 10. Good luck!

  17. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by kyfisherman1 View Post
    Thanks for all the great input. I have a few more questions before jumping in..............

    (1) my current fenders have a metal step between the two tires. The new fenders did not include one so I assume that the existing metal step should be able to be removed and re-used. Can anyone verify that or do I need to order new metal steps? The boat is in a storage facility that isn't close by or I would go check that.

    (2) Ranger sent me rivets to use to re-install the carpeted backboard. Do I need any type of special “rivet” tool to re-install the rivets?

    (3) What type of carpet should I use if I need to replace my backboard carpet and were would you suggest I purchase it?

    Go to Harbor Freight and purchase the air Rivet tool. About $60 This will save you a whole lot of head and hand ache !! And, it will set the Rivet snug !
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
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