My 250 SHO continues to make oil after 30 hours. I am fixing to do my 3rd oil change because I'm just not comfortable with the fuel in the oil. Does anyone have any comments or ideas about this. Its really getting frustrating to be dealing with these issues with a brand new motor this expensive!
You didn't say how much of an increase you are seeing on your dipstick. It's important.
If it were mine this is what I would do. Alert the dealer. Change the oil yourself but not the filter. If this is your 3rd complete change, don't worry about the filter. Carefully refill until oil is halfway up the safe zone on the stick. Tilt motor several times let it equalize to confirm the readings on the dipstick. Be sure you have fresh fuel with bare minimum octane requirements met. Lower octane fuel (87 octane will burn at higher temp). You want to get your engine temp up. If you're afraid of a few gallons of 87 octane for sure 89 only with ethanol. No ring free. Ring free is great but does the job intended very well. Startron or stabil at recommended rate. Go fishing. Vary rpm range frequently. Don't be afraid to run WOT but vary rpm.
Finally, be sure the prop you are running allows YOUR boat to hit the limiter at WOT. This is very important for the computer on your engine.
Run about 20 gallons of fuel like this. Check oil. Hope this helps remedy your issue. If it doesn't plead your case with the dealer.
JMHO and it's free so that's what it may be worth.
The level is above the full mark by about an inch. This is from half between the safe zone.Originally Posted by ZO6
Would you recommend not using a fully synthetic oil??
i do not use synthetic oil. I think synthetic oil could be contributing to your problem. It doesn't sound like your rings are seated properly.
Thank you , I will give it a shot
I believe Yamaha recommends not using synthetic for the break in. Also the SHO is very sensitive to the position of the motor when checking oil so I am assuming that you first checked it when new and leveled the cavitation plate, and then checked after 30 hours and noticed this rise. If this is the case and you are seeing 1" rise I would still not get worked up over that. Use a pump to pull out some oil to bring it within its range. Then run take some long runs at high RPMs, more than 20 miles if possible, the longer the better. After that check the oil periodically. If you continue to see a rise then you are probably not running it hard and hot enough - change the oil, leave your rods at home and take some long runs. This should go a long way to reducing any oil rise and may eliminate it altogether. As anglers we do a lot of low RPM use so its still good to keep an eye on it.
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2024 Phoenix 21 XE - Mercury 250 PRO XS Serial #3B429919
2017 Phoenix PHX 21 - Yamaha 250 SHO
2010 Skeeter 20i - Yamaha 250 SHO
1988 Procraft 1780 Competitor - Mercury 100
The rise is 1" above the safe range. When I last changed it at 20 hours I only filled it to the half mark between the safe range dots.
I'm not so sure I am comfortable just sucking the excess oil out as I feel the the fuel is mixed in with all of the oil. I think it would be best to just do a complete oil change to get the fuel out
Do a complete oil change and get fresh oil in there. Head to the lake with nothing in the boat (so your not tempted to fish) and run a full tank of fuel through it just running around. The SHO has to have long hard runs before it finally gets broke in. Vary your rpm's some but keep them up and run wot often. I have plenty of customers that don't run them hard at all and it takes close to 100 hrs to be fully broke in so no worries, your motor is fine. Before you change the oil be sure to tilt the motor 3/4 of the way up so it lets the oil run back to plan. When you put oil in only add till it's halfway up dipstick.
When you drain the oil you should also remove the oil filter. Tilt the motor up and turn the wheel to the right. You will see more oil runing out from oil filter mouting cavity. I use a turkey baser with a small hose attached to it and usualy extract another half qt of oil. This is where peoply make a mistake thinking that they drained all the oil and then refill it with 7 qts which is too much. Normaly 6.5 qts of oil will fill the motor to half way up the dip stick only if all the oil is completely drained!
I wouldn't run the engine with already diluted oil. Dump the oil and refill.
It seems strange that almost all of these reports of making oil is usually right after an oil change... I really think people are having a hard time completely draining the oil from these motors. They put oil back in up to the appropriate level and pretty much after their next trip out they have an additional inch of fuel added to the oil??? That much fuel in the oil would stink bad, and you would probably be able to light the oil on the dipstick with a lighter (this is a good test to see fuel contamination). You really need to trim the outboard after draining and turn your steering from one side to the other and let them sit for a while.
100 hours on mine, mobil 1 synthetic, never "made oil"
I can't drive my BassCat Puma/250 SHO well enough to hit the limiter. I am running 75 ish @ 5800 RPM, I can't get mine to the limiter. If that is a necessity to getting to 100% break in, I won't ever get there.
Put a lower pitch prop on it. Run it to just under the limiter and don't trim it up as much so you can run it full throttle. Cj
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
TRIM IT ALL THE WAY DOWN and run it that way for a day of fishing. From low to as fast as it will go. This will seat the rings...
I noticed on my 250 SHO when i did those early 2 or 3 oil changes that not getting all the oil out of the engine was the problem. Dealer and I would change oil check the level real good. Run the motor on water hose till warm. On all three changes oil went up after 2 to 3 hour of running fishing day. Never went up after that first day. When i did my first 100 hour it went up same on first trip. Took extra out and has not gone up again. Somehow those motors hold oil in them somewhere when you change and will let you overfill and not know it till first trip. ?????
This does seem accurate, after 15 years spent working in a performance machine shop there's just no way these engines
are suffering from huge amounts of fuel contamination in the oil. If that much fuel was making it past the rings the motor would
be suffering from huge blow by which would lead to a host of many other problems that would be quickly apparent.
Also todays rings just don't "seat"... You have chrome rings and plasma moly rings. Modern rings rely on good cylinder
machining tolerances and finishes. Pistons also usually have 2 compression rings which are near zero gapped at operating
temperatures and a 3 piece oil control ring.
You can run em however you want but I'm just not part of this "gotta beat the crap out of em" club for a non existent
problem. If your really worried send an oil sample out for analysis
Unless you are lugging it and that will make it worse, too much fuel will keep the cyl temps cool not burning all the fuel. CJ
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
Getting the engines temps up and keeping them there is the only way and that means Rpms . If your running around with the motor tucked your just blowing fuel by the rings engine never gets hot enough . Eng needs to run around 140to 145 degrees . Mine stopped at 18 some hrs hasn't made oil since then . I have only ran regular Yamaha oil in mine . One thing I have notice about the dipstick it goes into the oil reservoir at a flat angle . So your not getting a true vertical measurement . A very small increase is over exaggerated on the dipstick . If Yamaha would install the dip stick in a true vertical position into the oil reservoir we wouldn't be talking about this as much .
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