Greasing the bearings

[billnorman1]

I learned a long time ago how to set roller bearings to zero to +.001. Crank the nut down tight. Kick the hell out of the wheel. Crank it down again if it will move. Loosen the nut until you can move the washer behind the nut side to side with a screwdriver, treat it like a feeler gauge. If it moves you have SOME clearance, which is all you want or need. Install the cotter pin if used, right there or in the next loosening opportunity.

[kojimep]

Here is an article about Pre Load http://www.truckinginfo.com/channel/...-properly.aspx

This part especially.
Perils of preload

Loose wheel bearings aren't the end of the world. It's a little annoying and inconvenient at times, and costly in terms of tire wear, leaky seals, etc., but short of having the wheel come right off, there's little real threat to a loose wheel bearing.

On the other hand, excessive preload often will cause a bearing to fail within a few hundred miles. And that could be part of the problem. Techs reluctant to over-tighten a wheel bearing may err on the side of caution, preferring a slightly loose bearing to one that is too tight. Nobody wants a wheel-off occurrence.

Preload - the opposite of end play - is where there is no hub movement at all relative to the axle. In a perfect world, the bearing would be loaded so there is zero endplay. But Stangl says preload cannot be measured, so it can't be determined that the bearing isn't in fact dangerously tight. (Rolling torque is an option, but that has its own set of variables.)

"The one- to five-thou range recommended by RP 618 is a compromise between too loose and too tight," Stangl says. "At zero, we're into preload and we can't measure that. Between zero and one thou, we could be measuring deflection and still be in preload. Between one and five, we know the bearing is not preloaded, and it's not too loose that it will cause other problems downstream."

Here is a graph from NSK that they shows the ratio between radial clearance and bearing life. 100% life is at 0 preload, ~80% life at .0008" clearance, and ~65% life is at .0023" clearnace. If you really wanted, the true desired preload can be calculated based on bearing loads and speeds, which can then be converted to the required torque on the hub nut, it can take some digging to find all those formulas. But like I said it can be difficult to achieve on a trailer hub, and if you're going to replace the bearings every 2 to 3 years anyways than it doesn't really matter that much.

For the record, my method is to tighten the hub nut while rotating the tire until the tire turns a little harder, in order to make sure the bearings are seated in the races, and then I back off the nut until the wheel just barely spins free. The cotter pin slots are usually what can screw up the setting, I've even installed the cotter pin and then loosened the nut slightly (into the pin) in order to get the setting I want. I haven't yet had a bearing fail on any of my trailers that I install new bearings when I get it, repack them once a year, or every over year, but reuse the bearings. Though I also use a synthetic bearing grease in the hubs.

[rocket man]

Every thing I see says 1-5 thou. end play. I split it and run 3. http://www.timken.com/pdf/10420_Whee...ent_Poster.pdf

[oli3665]

So I am knee deep in project, got everything out and cleaned up. The shop I am buying from is out of races, should be in by Thursday. Got a question, is there a certain side to the race that goes in first?

[Islands]

So I am knee deep in project, got everything out and cleaned up. The shop I am buying from is out of races, should be in by Thursday. Got a question, is there a certain side to the race that goes in first?

Yes, the side with the smaller ID goes in first. Put a bearing and a race together and you will see there is only one way they will work together. Also get a race installation tool so you do not damage the race when installing.

[oli3665]

Thanks Islands, I will look into that tool!!

[SoonerFan]

Yes, the side with the smaller ID goes in first. Put a bearing and a race together and you will see there is only one way they will work together. Also get a race installation tool so you do not damage the race when installing.

O'Riley's and AutoZone rent them for free with a refundable deposit.

A good punch (I have a square one and a brass round one) and a small hand sledge hammer are also helpful for this job.

[CatFan]

O'Riley's and AutoZone rent them for free with a refundable deposit.

A good punch (I have a square one and a brass round one) and a small hand sledge hammer are also helpful for this job.

And safety glasses are an absolute must for this job. Races are hard, brittle steel and it can turn into shrapnel if strained or struck.

[rocket man]

So I am knee deep in project, got everything out and cleaned up. The shop I am buying from is out of races, should be in by Thursday. Got a question, is there a certain side to the race that goes in first?

I think you better get some help on this project.

[SoonerFan]

I think you better get some help on this project.

Awwww, he'll get it. It's a good learning experience. Took me two weekends the first time I did it.

[billnorman1]

And safety glasses are an absolute must for this job. Races are hard, brittle steel and it can turn into shrapnel if strained or struck.

Carried a piece of a race in my left thumb for many years when it shattered. I still drive them in with a squared-off punch which I dress up when it gets rounded.

[SoonerFan]

Carried a piece of a race in my left thumb for many years when it shattered. I still drive them in with a squared-off punch which I dress up when it gets rounded.

I never thought about the race shattering. I guess the next time I do this I'll have to remember to slip on my face shield and some gloves.

[OkieBud]

My trailer is Dri-Doc Inc Mdl. BB21275V made Midway Ar. and last weekend I started to repack the bearings out and it turned to be a week of hell trying..

the trailer axle spline is 1-3/8" inner size but it uses the following parts..

Outter Bearing 44649 with Race 44610

Inner Bearing 68149 with Race 68110 (they give me 68111 which is 1/32" or so to big.)

Grease Seal 16657 (473317)

I wished I have wrote down the numbers of the hub.

Hopefully this will help someone out before going thru all the wrong parts..

[DSSR]

If you do not damage the old race taking it out you can use it to push the new race in. Do not use the bearings to press in the races.

[billnorman1]

If you do not damage the old race taking it out you can use it to push the new race in. Do not use the bearings to press in the races.

If the recess for the race extends past the seat area you could conceivably end up with two races driven in. I've never tried this, sounds chancy.

[SoonerFan]

Just rent for free/borrow the tool from O'Riley or NAPA OR AutoZone.

[Sammiew]

The best thing about doing this for yourself I see is that if and when you do have trouble on the side of the road you will have some knowledge about what to do. Lots of good info on here.

[Bass AHolic]

They do have a zerk fitting and yes I believe that's how it's designed. Top water, I wish I knew how to do that but never have attempted it, and I've read horror stories about people not getting he races in correctly and ending up roadside. What business would be good at this. We hav 1 marine shop in my town and they do horrible work.

camper/RV sales & service for the bearing job, if one around.. can watch that on U tube also, if want to learn how to DIY https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...ings&FORM=VDRE

[Bass AHolic]

I think you better get some help on this project.

inside of race ( cup) faces outwards is answer, click on link below and view several how to videos

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...ings&FORM=VDRE

[Ed R]

So I was greasing the bearings a few minutes ago and while pumping the grease in one side I had some water drip out ( about a 1/2 a teaspoon) clear water. I fished last Friday. Do I have problems?

QUOTE CatFan "If you have EZLube bearings, you don't need to do anything. Clear water indicates it was under the cap at the end. The bearings aren't sealed, so you can't keep water out completely."


Quote oli3665 "So I am knee deep in project, got everything out and cleaned up. The shop I am buying from is out of races, should be in by Thursday. Got a question, is there a certain side to the race that goes in first?"


Reading the whole thread...…...so 1/2 a tea spoon of clear water dripped out.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it comes to mind.