Trailer step pad removal

[rfdong]

Anyone have some tips or products that will help remove the trailer step pads? I’ve done one and it was a MAJOR pita but I might have just done it the hard way (wouldn’t be a first). Mine are still adhered but starting to crack so want to replace .

[jc2bg]

I have never removed those, but I am sure the glue they use is strong. Heat is your friend. I use a hair dryer and a plastic putty knife for tough decals. Then goo gone for clean up.

[Mblaesi]

Just did mine sharpen wood chisel for most of pad and glue then 180 grit sand paper. Don’t get in a hurry then clean with alcohol

[mikesxpress]

Scalpel blade and two beers per pad. Taxidermist strokes till it comes off. *Suggestion: while the pads are off replace the crappy carriage bolt they use to hold the fender on with a SS counter sunk flat head Phillips then tighten the crap out of them.

[rfdong]

“Scalpel blade and two beers per pad”.

That sounds like stitches!

good idea on the Phillips as when they installed at Ranger they overdrilled the hole and one fender rattles around like crazy as the carriage bolt spins and it’s impossible to tighten. Part of the reason I want to fix.

thanks

[mikesxpress]

I believe the square on the carriage bolt wears the hole larger after the fender shakes it around. And you can only tighten it if you remove the pad. PIA. I opted for an extra long bolt and put two jam nuts at the bottom so I can hold on to those and tighten the locknut up again later and not have to remove the pad.

[rfdong]

Reviving this thread. When I removed the step, the flat carriage bolts had worn the hole, but also when they countersunk the flat part of the head they took too much out and the glass underneath is all shredded up. Won’t hold anything. I tried using JB WELD in what was left thinking it would reinforce but it’s too brittle and chipping out. Any ideas? Or will I have to drill new holes through the fender and trailer? Probably the latter but thought you all might have a clever idea. Thanks

[blkfalc4]

Glass and resin.

[xcoach]

I removed one pad last month, took a putty knife and once I had enough up it pulled right off. Sanded and scraped the glue off. I then glued the new one on with bob smith ic 2000 glue from amazon someone recommended on here, worked out great. The cost of the pads are very reasonable from Ranger, front $12 and back $18 on my 185VS trailer.

[mikesxpress]

Reviving this thread. When I removed the step, the flat carriage bolts had worn the hole, but also when they countersunk the flat part of the head they took too much out and the glass underneath is all shredded up. Won’t hold anything. I tried using JB WELD in what was left thinking it would reinforce but it’s too brittle and chipping out. Any ideas? Or will I have to drill new holes through the fender and trailer? Probably the latter but thought you all might have a clever idea. Thanks

Yep. Seen that before.
Oversized SS flat washer and counter sink it so the flat head phillips bolt you use sits flush with the washer surface. Once the pad is installed you will have a slight rise where the washer sits that will be noticeable to you but not anyone else. Use a long bolt so you can add the jamb nuts as I noted above. No matter what these glass fenders shake themselves loose over time.

[Ranger519VS]

Heat gun will loosen the rubber pads quite well, then use a putty knife. You have to be careful not to get it hotter than necessary.

[BrownTrout]

Did mine a few months ago. Used putty knife to remove old rubber and adhesive. Used the adhesive I got from Ranger Parts to put the new one back on.

[rfdong]

Yep. Seen that before.
Oversized SS flat washer and counter sink it so the flat head phillips bolt you use sits flush with the washer surface. Once the pad is installed you will have a slight rise where the washer sits that will be noticeable to you but not anyone else. Use a long bolt so you can add the jamb nuts as I noted above. No matter what these glass fenders shake themselves loose over time.

Thanks Mike. You are a wealth of info.

[mikesxpress]

Your welcome Robert. Sharing information/experience is why most of us are on here.

[psj706]

I believe the square on the carriage bolt wears the hole larger after the fender shakes it around. And you can only tighten it if you remove the pad. PIA. I opted for an extra long bolt and put two jam nuts at the bottom so I can hold on to those and tighten the locknut up again later and not have to remove the pad.

I may be missing something here. Is the bolt spinning because the square part of the carriage bolt widened the hole? The bolts on my step have a flat head slot on the bottom to hold back pressure on the bolt while tightening the nut. You could also just hold the bolt with vice grips.

[mikesxpress]

These glass fenders look nice but they crack like saltines and shake like a Chihuahua going down the road. Retaining the glass fender to a suspended metal mount just vibrates the carriage bolt till it loosens up and wears the hole out. Without the washer mod noted above you can tighten them a few times till the head wears thru (and it will). Vise grips will mess up the treads and inhibit your ability to remove the fenders. The slot for a flat tip is a good idea if it will hold up. I use two jam nuts as they are easily removed.

[rfdong]

My trailer is a 2005 and that fender has been loose since day one. The countersink hole throught the gel coat also got too deep at the factory and into the glass and splintered it. I know they wear too, but I removed it once before and tried to tighten it, wouldn’t hold. I found some as hurricane bolts I may try (wide flat head) over the washer instead of countersinking. Use a thick adhesive base to try and. Even out the rubber pad. We shall see.

[mikesxpress]

With the attachment point going thru a thin layer of fiberglass/gelcoat and the inherent vibration, the more bearing area you can get the longer it will hold up.

[rfdong]

This is what I’m planning to try....

[mikesxpress]

That will be better than what's in there now.