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  1. #1
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    No Down Trim on Suzuki Shifter

    For some reason my trim down function on my throttle shifter just completely stopped working today. It works fine up front by trolling motor, on my "turn signal" lever on steering wheel, and on the outboard itself. I guess it doesn't have a major impact on using my boat but is one thing that isn't working. Any quick simple fixes to this anyone knows of?

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    #2
    The trim wires on my 150ss at the throttle have push together connectors on each wire. I would check there.
    1998 Gambler Outlaw with a 2019 Suzuki 200SS, Ultrex Trolling motor with 360 imaging, two Helix 10's at the bow and two Helix 10's at the helm, and a custom Amera Trail trailer with Gator-Bak bunks on it!

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    #3
    Just be thankful you have a turn signal switch. Since I always say go to the place the last dummy worked, if you need to fix it, look at where your blinker switch is spliced in.

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    #4
    I'm going to start by taking off shifter I guess. I'm out of town all week so will have to mess with it next week. Apparently there are wires that could have come unplugged in the shifter. Billnorman1 where about is the blinker switch spliced in? Just look under dash?

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    #5
    The more I get ready to tear into this the more nervous I get. It would be nice to have a clue which end to start on. I have a concealed type shifter. When looking at the control box manual, there are 2 connector wires. PTT switch and neutral switch wire (coupler type connector). And PTT switch and neutral switch wire (bullet terminal). ONLY down trim doesn't work. Up and down work on all other friggin areas of boat and motor except there.
    Booter I did look under dash where turn signal trim wires come through. There are 3 separate connectors plugged into the right (trim up and down) signal lever side. They go into s mess of wires that I would never find the end of. So I'm starting at the control shifter unless someone guides me elsewhere I guess. See pic. Looks like I have no choice but to remove the big black base Philips screws correct? Does anyone know if connectors will be reachable to check? Are one or both of the wires I listed required to trim down?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. Member eliteangler's Avatar
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    #6
    The three wires consist of this: 1 hot wire going to switch. 2 wires from switch going to trim motor circuit. So... when you flip the switch for up, the hot wire voltage gets passed to the "up" wire. When you flip the switch for down, the hot wire voltage gets passed to the "down" wire. Depending on which way you flip your trim switch, voltage will be sent to that part of the trim circuit.
    Sam Dunaway
    2005 Triton TR-21X
    Powered by Suzuki 250SS

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    #7
    Sounds like you're explaining the turn signal wiring. Thanks for that. Does anyone have this same type shifter box?

  8. Member Bass AHolic's Avatar
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    #8
    more in likely the down switch needs replaced. especially if one used the most

  9. Member eliteangler's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by BassCatKev View Post
    Sounds like you're explaining the turn signal wiring. Thanks for that. Does anyone have this same type shifter box?
    Yep, that's exactly how all of your trim switches are wired.
    Sam Dunaway
    2005 Triton TR-21X
    Powered by Suzuki 250SS

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BassCatKev View Post
    The more I get ready to tear into this the more nervous I get. It would be nice to have a clue which end to start on. I have a concealed type shifter. When looking at the control box manual, there are 2 connector wires. PTT switch and neutral switch wire (coupler type connector). And PTT switch and neutral switch wire (bullet terminal). ONLY down trim doesn't work. Up and down work on all other friggin areas of boat and motor except there.
    Booter I did look under dash where turn signal trim wires come through. There are 3 separate connectors plugged into the right (trim up and down) signal lever side. They go into s mess of wires that I would never find the end of. So I'm starting at the control shifter unless someone guides me elsewhere I guess. See pic. Looks like I have no choice but to remove the big black base Philips screws correct? Does anyone know if connectors will be reachable to check? Are one or both of the wires I listed required to trim down?
    Kevin, I believe that you are the right track and you should be able to follow the connectors into the main harness from there. Once you find out where it connects, you should be able to determine if your lever switch is bad with the help of a multimeter or just not connected correctly.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #11
    What I'm saying is your standard shift lever should be pretty reliable, but things do get old. Most times there's a red power wire that runs throughout the boat, and each switch taps into it to send power to a blue (up) wire or a green (down) wire. The blinker switch is an added switch not a factory switch. Any time a new item is added by someone it can damage the existing factory wiring. Anyhow, if you find the wires going to your throttle/shift and jump the red to the green and the motor goes down, I guess the throttle switch has died. Make sure the rubber switch protector hasn't gotten caught in the switch itself.

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    #12
    I removed the shifter box abd located the 2 connectors. There was no sign whatsoever of them being disconnected or loose. If I was going to use a multimeter to test, would I just disconnect the down wire connector and contact the battery side of it with the multimeter prong?

  13. Member eliteangler's Avatar
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    #13
    No. Connect the red meter lead to the down wire coming from the switch. The other end (after you disconnect the connector) goes to your trim motor circuit, not the battery. Press the down button and see if you get 12 volts. Make sure you put the black meter lead on a known good ground.
    Sam Dunaway
    2005 Triton TR-21X
    Powered by Suzuki 250SS

  14. Member eliteangler's Avatar
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    #14
    Better yet.... to prove that your switch is good, disconnect the common hot coming to the switch, then put one meter lead on the common connector to switch, and the other lead to the down connector from the switch. Then, put your meter on the ohms setting. Then, press the down button. If you get a beep on your meter, your switch is good.
    Sam Dunaway
    2005 Triton TR-21X
    Powered by Suzuki 250SS