Fuse Block/Wiring

[Moneyshot]

I am cleaning up some wiring in my battery compartment trying to get as few wires to + terminal as possible, I will try to explain how it is currently laid out, and how I would like to lay it out.

Current set up... Starting from + Terminal ...50 Amp manual reset breaker with 4 gauge wire running to main power switch, coming from main power switch to remote terminal stud are 1 4 gauge wire to bring power to post out of switch, along with 3 other connections on a 20 amp manual reset breaker

I plan to install a fuse block, I will be moving the three connections on the 20 amp to the fuse block, one of the wires is heavier gauge, main power to all accessories, graphs, etc I believe this wire travels from another block located near the console. The other two are pumps both have inline 10 amp fuse. I will also be adding things like my jackplate to the block

I intend to take the wire that was powering the terminal post, and moving it to my battery + running through the switch and out the other wire to the fuse block- What kind of protection do I need prior to reaching the block? I would like to eliminate the 50amp breaker as the terminal rings are very small for the 4 gauge wire and larger ring terminals. Do I need protection between the battery and the fuse block?

I tested a bit and it seems as if these switches are two way...meaning it doesnt matter which side is hot ... I would like to find a switch with the breaker installed like I have for my TM

How much protection fuse wise do I need to protect the items coming from the 20 amp breaker?

Should I leave inline fuses in place prior to fuse block or should I install new rings and eliminate the fuse?


Thanks in advance, I've posted in the lounge as well

[Jonestrollingmotor]

I'm having trouble following, but I can say this about your moving things around. But first, I don't understand having a 50A breaker on 4ga wire. Anything that draws enough current that needs a 4ga wire is going to trip a 50A breaker. What does this wire feed?
That being said, Each fuse panel will need a to have a breaker of sufficient size to run the total of all the fuse feeds plus a wire of sufficient size to carry the load. Each appliance will then come off the fuse panel with it's own fuse. Do not "double" up on fuses which means don't try to run two appliances off the same fuse unless each appliance has it's own inline fuse. In that case, the fuse should be large enough to carry both appliances if they happen to be activated at the same time.
John

[Moneyshot]

Ok let me try and clear it up

If you a familiar with Phoenix wiring pre 2014- I have a Main Power Switch on/off no breaker.

From one side of that switch is a wire ( I'm guessing 4 ga could be smaller 6? it isn't marked on the wire) it runs to a single terminal post- on that post is a 20amp manual reset breaker with 3 + wires to it- (manual bilge, recircs, ( Bilge and other pumps have 10amp in line fuse) and main power to all lights accessories.


From the other side of the switch runs the same size wire to 50amp manual reset breaker that is attached to + battery post.

- TO answer the question the 50amp breaker and large wire feeds the main power system to the switch directly from the battery

I want to elminate the terminal post- connect that wire to positive post of battery using the 50 amp breaker

Replace the 20 amp breaker by using the blue sea fuse block.

on the block will be -

manual bilge- has 10 amp inline fuse

recircs - 10 amp inline fuse

Power wire from dash - No visible inline fuse but I am assuming it has protection from the factory circuit near console

jack plate - 40 amp in line fuse

I plan to match the fuses in the block with the same size as inlines

Will this work like explained? I can send pics or draw it out if that would help

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Below is a quote from your last post. I've commented on each section with what I think.

Ok let me try and clear it up

If you a familiar with Phoenix wiring pre 2014- I have a Main Power Switch on/off no breaker.

From one side of that switch is a wire ( I'm guessing 4 ga could be smaller 6? it isn't marked on the wire) it runs to a single terminal post-I've seen this used as a junction post only on that post is a 20amp manual reset breaker with 3 + wires to it- assumption is one side of breaker on post, other side has the 3+ wires (manual bilge, recircs, ( Bilge and other pumps have 10amp in line fuse) and main power to all lights accessories So you have fuses coming off the breaker that total more than the breaker that is protecting it ? What size wire is feeding each appliance?.


From the other side of the switch runs the same size wire to 50amp manual reset breaker that is attached to + battery post. Doesn't make sense but will go with it.

- TO answer the question the 50amp breaker and large wire feeds the main power system to the switch directly from the battery If I'm understanding, it does it by way of a 20A breaker, so you have a 50A breaker on larger wire from the battery to the switch, then the same wire from the switch to a junction post, then a 20A breaker feeding over 40A of appliances???

I want to elminate the terminal post- connect that wire to positive post of battery using the 50 amp breaker. that is doable, but you need to know what size wire you're using, and possibly a bigger breaker depending on what the fuse block is going to be supplying.

Replace the 20 amp breaker by using the blue sea fuse block.

on the block will be -

manual bilge- has 10 amp inline fuse

recircs - 10 amp inline fuse

Power wire from dash - No visible inline fuse but I am assuming it has protection from the factory circuit near console

jack plate - 40 amp in line fuse You just named off at least 60A worth of protection, not including the wiring going to the console and considering one recirc @ 10A. You need to go back and see what is actually needed, the size wire you're protecting and see what size fuses you need. for instance, you don't want to protect a wire that handles 5A with a 10A fuse, but if the wire is designed for 10A, then a 10A fuse is fine. When you add all the appliances up, then you will know what size wire needs to be supplying the fuse block and what size breaker you need. I understand that probably won't have everything on at once, but you never know and don't want to overload the supply wiring.

I plan to match the fuses in the block with the same size as inlines Sounds like they were not matched correctly from Phoenix, or somethings have been added without consideration of supply.

Will this work like explained? I can send pics or draw it out if that would help