Replacing trailer brakes

[abianca99]

I recently had a caliper failure on my 2008 EZ Loader trailer. It has the UFP db-35 style. So I've decided it was a good time to update my brakes on both sides. I stopped by Eastern Marine the other day to see what my options are. The associate was very willing to help, but I'm not sure if all his info was 100%. He had suggested converting to Kodiak style brakes as he said the are less finicky and easier to maintain. He said there is nothing wrong with UFP though. He also suggested going with flexible brake line instead of hard line. I also have Vault hubs and was considering servicing them while I was in there. Nothing is wrong with them though, just 10 years old. Any reason I should go with Kodiak over UFP? Hard vs flexible brake line? I am going to call about the Vault hub service as they suggest. I am not still covered under warranty though. I do fish the upper Chesapeake, and the Potomac so it is considered brackish water. I want to make sure I do this right the first time. I have never serviced a boat trailer before but I am very mechanically inclined so I plan on doing all of this myself. Any suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[chrisalecia]

I just replaced my entire brake system on my 2005 EZ Loader. Got a package from (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/). Guys were so awesome they shoudl be a sponsor here. I called them, told them what i needed and they packaged it up. That guy at Eastern Marine sounded very nice too. But it sounds expensive. I thought about flexible lines because they will last longer but the hard lines in my trailer were 13 years old and not in terrible shape. I don't think I will have this rig for 13 more years so the extra cost for flexible lines wasn't worth it to me.

[abianca99]

I just replaced my entire brake system on my 2005 EZ Loader. Got a package from (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/). Guys were so awesome they shoudl be a sponsor here. I called them, told them what i needed and they packaged it up. That guy at Eastern Marine sounded very nice too. But it sounds expensive. I thought about flexible lines because they will last longer but the hard lines in my trailer were 13 years old and not in terrible shape. I don't think I will have this rig for 13 more years so the extra cost for flexible lines wasn't worth it to me.

Did you stay with UFP or did you go another route? The nice the about Eastern Marine is that they are a 15 minute drive from my house. I can go there and visually see everything before I buy. After being there yesterday, I realized they have everything I would need. I'm sure there is cheaper though, and I will be weighing my options

[chrisalecia]

Stayed with UFP. Everything went together fine. I also replaced the actuator.

I'm also pro - supporting my local guy too. I buy most of my tackle from my local shop. Lot to be said for that.....

[abianca99]

Stayed with UFP. Everything went together fine. I also replaced the actuator.

I'm also pro - supporting my local guy too. I buy most of my tackle from my local shop. Lot to be said for that.....

As far as the actuator is concerned...is there a way to test it to make sure it is functioning properly? Mine seems to be working fine but would be nice to know if it is 100%

[chrisalecia]

There is a lot on YT about testing the actuator. Andrew Scott has a great series of videos ( ). To test you can pump up the actuator and see if your wheels rotate, then release the actuator pressure and try again. Mine was working but not really reaching full pressure. i was going to rebuild it but decided to just replace the whole thing. Slide the old assembly out and then the new one in.

[wbrown]

I replaced my entire system about 3 years ago. Actuator, lines, and Kodiak disc brakes. No problems so far. Here's the kit I bought for the discs. http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/...l#.WrKtJKjwaUk

[abianca99]

There is a lot on YT about testing the actuator. Andrew Scott has a great series of videos ( ). To test you can pump up the actuator and see if your wheels rotate, then release the actuator pressure and try again. Mine was working but not really reaching full pressure. i was going to rebuild it but decided to just replace the whole thing. Slide the old assembly out and then the new one in.

Thanks for the link

[abianca99]

I replaced my entire system about 3 years ago. Actuator, lines, and Kodiak disc brakes. No problems so far. Here's the kit I bought for the discs. http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/...l#.WrKtJKjwaUk

So you have been happy with your Kodiak brakes. I have been leaning in that dirrection as they get very positive reviews. Still doing my research though.

[abianca99]

Since I launch my boat in brackish water, should I be looking towards the SS brake kits? They are much more expensive though. I think there is Zinc and aluminum as well. I notice there are different coatings as well. Any recommendation here?

Also, I notice there are 2 different style rotors. One is integrated with studs attached, and an extended center piece on the rotor. The other style is more typical I would see on an automobile where the rotor is just the rotor. Not studs attached. ANy advantage one way or the other here?

[Bob G.]

UFP DB35 brakes are simple and easy to work on. Parts are readily available at at lot of online vendors or Eastern Marine, since you have one near you. You can get the brake pads at most auto parts stores. Based on prices and descriptions at Eastern Marine and the brackish water you fish, I would go with the aluminum calipers and zinc coated hubs if you need them.

UFP disc brake rotors/hubs are one piece.

Lucky that you have an Eastern Marine near you, we have nothing here like that to walk in and buy what you need.

[abianca99]

UFP DB35 brakes are simple and easy to work on. Parts are readily available at at lot of online vendors or Eastern Marine, since you have one near you. You can get the brake pads at most auto parts stores. Based on prices and descriptions at Eastern Marine and the brackish water you fish, I would go with the aluminum calipers and zinc coated hubs if you need them.

UFP disc brake rotors/hubs are one piece.

Lucky that you have an Eastern Marine near you, we have nothing here like that to walk in and buy what you need.

Thanks. I realized that they have everything and any option should I chose. I am lucky to be able to visually see everything before I buy. Or be able to take parts in and match exactly what I have

[DABS]

Bob G. is right on.

[LOSTTEXAN]

UFP is is the best bang for the buck and what I use on the freshwater rigs.

But down here the hardcore heavy boat saltwater users mostly go with Kodiak stainless since they might get 3-5 years instead of 1-3 for everything else. Reality is most of the 7k and under saltwater rigs just remove the brakes altogether because brakes and saltwater are an exercise in futility.

[abianca99]

Thanks for the help guys. I have decided that I am going to stick with ufp. Once the weather and work gives me a chance, I will be getting this done. I have to replace my leaf spring bushings, bolts, and shackles as well

[billnorman1]

Thanks for the help guys. I have decided that I am going to stick with ufp. Once the weather and work gives me a chance, I will be getting this done. I have to replace my leaf spring bushings, bolts, and shackles as well

An air compressor and a good high powered impact wrench would be your friend along with a wire brush (first) and some penetrating oil.

[abianca99]

I have all that. Thanks

[billproxs]

Best way for me was to only remove end leaf spring in front where it connects to frame, same at rear spring. Unbolt center bolt at equalizer, then remove leaf spring u bolts. Saves removing the rest of the equalizer bolts and nuts and links. Also that way all bushings come installed with new parts.

[Snoopy Rod]

what is the flexible line made of?

[abianca99]

I had to remove one of my rotors due to damage, so I had to pull apart the vault hub. The bearings were still fine and there was still plenty of grease. The only thing i notice is there is a slight indent all the way around the wear ring on the spindle where it shows wear. This is a tapered spindle on a 2008 ez loader. I assume this would be a good time to replace this wear ring??? Or should I leave it alone. From research, I think there is an o-ring underneath it and a seal behind it. Does anyone know the part numbers for the wear ring, o-ring, and seal? Also, what is the best way to remove that wear ring? Last question...I notice Dexter has the exact replacement inner and outer bearings at eastern marine. But, they are made in China, as are the originals. Has anyone cross referenced these over to USA made Timken bearings? Or, any quality USA made bearing. I have never been a fan of the quality of China bearings.