Wiring up my locators.

[Fisher Man]

I will have my helix 10 mega on the console, and the helix 12 with the 360 up front. Also the Ethernet hub. Is this all ok to have wired into my crank battery? I have a 1000ca interstate for my optimax. Or should I rig up another battery just for the electronics? I always worry about running the 2 live well pumps all day and electronics. Or am I way over thinking it? I know a guy that used a lawn mower battery for his graphs in the past and he swears by em. Would there be a lot of amp draw?

[WjColdWater]

Go to the Lowrance/GPS Forum. Sticky Most Valuable Posts. There are several links one gives the wiring diagram for a Blueseas system. This system will isolate all your electronics on one system back to the starting battery. I have completed this system for my rig. Most guys are going to this system. It will cost you about $200 for materials and not a bad DIY project. Good luck.

[eliteangler]

Go to the Lowrance/GPS Forum. Sticky Most Valuable Posts. There are several links one gives the wiring diagram for a Blueseas system. This system will isolate all your electronics on one system back to the starting battery. I have completed this system for my rig. Most guys are going to this system. It will cost you about $200 for materials and not a bad DIY project. Good luck.

I looked in there for that thread and couldn't find it. Can you copy and paste the link here please? Thanks.

[Fisher Man]

Yea I can't find that thread either? Is it one of the links without a description?

[eliteangler]

Yea I can't find that thread either? Is it one of the links without a description?

I clicked on all of those and didn't see it.

[catdude28]

Specifically, what is the model of your battery? Not sure if by referencing “1000cas” that you mean ccas or mcas. If you mean 1000mcas and your battery is the Interstate 27 XHD with 800 ccas, then it is too small for your Opti and all of your accessories. If it is the Interstate 31 XHD with 1000 ccas, it should be fine, as a 31 series crank battery with at least 950 ccas will work. Wire your graphs directly to the battery with fusing, or use some type of terminal block as suggested. If you are considering upgrading batteries, a high quality 31 AGM would be best and would handle all of your accessories, if your charger is AGM compatible. A small house battery just for your accessories is always an option if you have room, but not necessary with a quality 31 battery for cranking.

[Fisher Man]

I have the 27M-XHD, 800 cca & 1000ca w/ 182 Reserve @ 25 hr.

I don't have room for a 31 where my crank battery sits. The only way I could do that is if I go with a Deka which is a 31 in a size 27.
I have a 3 battery compartment on the other side. I have 2 in it now for the 24v fortrex. So I could add another one for the graphs.

Adds another 53 lbs to the mix.

[WjColdWater]

Here is the link. http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?=174227
Scroll all the way to the end of this thread and the wiring diagram will be there. PM me and I would be glad to share my install.
Wayne

[eliteangler]

Here is the link. http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?=174227
Scroll all the way to the end of this thread and the wiring diagram will be there. PM me and I would be glad to share my install.
Wayne

That link doesn't work for me.

[eliteangler]

Found it:

[Fisher Man]

Thanks Sam! I assume that the SSHD would be like the Humminbird Ethernet switch? The blue sea is about $35. What gauge wire is recommended for this wiring?

[akaslyguy]

Here is something i wrote up the other day for someone on facebook. This is just the way i did it and it has worked great. I take no responsibility if it doesn't work for you or messes anything up.

If anyone is doing this from scratch.. .. look into a blue seas fuse block. They come in different sizes depending on how much you may be hooking up. Mount the fuse block in a easy to get to central location. I put mine in a rod locker. Put a master cut off switch in your battery compartment. Get you some red and black 10g wire (minimum). Run the red wire from the battery to the correct side (power in) of cutoff switch. Attach a short piece of red wire to other side (out) of cutoff switch. Install an inline, manual resetable breaker (15-20 amp is usually good). Then continue running red wire from other side of breaker to fuse block and connect to the positive end of fuse block. Now run black wire from negative post of battery all the way to the negative side of fuse block. You now have a dedicated fuse block just for your electronics. The "inline fuses" you normally splice in, now just go in the fuse block. Run positive and negative wires from fuse block to units or accessories as needed or added. Super easy, clean install, properly protected, easy trouble shooting, and much better/consistent voltage that avoids the original boat wiring. The cut off switch provides you a way to kill all power to your electronics when you get finished. This can keep something from accidently draining your battery. Also great to keep a surge from getting to your electronics while charging battery.

Don't skimp on your connectors. I like the weatherproof butt connectors (the kind that release a glue when heated with a heat gun). Also use marine grade heat shrink rap on your terminal connectors. It also releases a glue when heated that adds extra protection. (It's available in a variety pack at harbor freight for a good price) Hope it helps someone.

[ezfishn]

Nice description and highly recommended with anyone running multiple units/accessories. I've used 8ga wiring in a similar setup and haven't had any power issues. But none of this helps if you have a weak battery or improper reserve capacity for the electronics and engine.

[akaslyguy]

Nice description and highly recommended with anyone running multiple units/accessories. I've used 8ga wiring in a similar setup and haven't had any power issues. But none of this helps if you have a weak battery or improper reserve capacity for the electronics and engine.

Well said!!

[catdude28]

Nice description and highly recommended with anyone running multiple units/accessories. I've used 8ga wiring in a similar setup and haven't had any power issues. But none of this helps if you have a weak battery or improper reserve capacity for the electronics and engine.

^^^^^^^ Agree with akaslyguy. This is very well said.

The OP's battery only has 800 ccas, and a lot of high power electronics and live wells running. The Opti requires 800 ccas on its own. i would seriously be thinking of a Northstar/Batteries Plus X2 if I had the proper charger.

[Basshaker]

Any suggestions on connector brands? Agree some are junk and 8 seems to be more difficult to work with. Just want to do it right once.

Plan to run 8 from battery to switch to breaker to fuse block.

I will need a 10ft splice to bow unit 10 to factory 18. Do I use a 10 butt joint and triple up the 18?

[4Kboater]

Any suggestions on connector brands? Agree some are junk and 8 seems to be more difficult to work with. Just want to do it right once.

Plan to run 8 from battery to switch to breaker to fuse block.

I will need a 10ft splice to bow unit 10 to factory 18. Do I use a 10 butt joint and triple up the 18?

For me, I don't like butt splices...aka FLT's. I use buchanan sleeves with a racket type crimp tool. I have a fuse block in the starboard rod locker and ran 10 AWG to each graph and cutting their power cable short as possible.

[Fisher Man]

This is great information!!! Can’t wait to get my boat out of storage and start this!

[Basshaker]

For me, I don't like butt splices...aka FLT's. I use buchanan sleeves with a racket type crimp tool. I have a fuse block in the starboard rod locker and ran 10 AWG to each graph and cutting their power cable short as possible.

Like it and they are easy to get. Adhesive shrink wrap over it?

[Fisher Man]

So is this how it is suppose to go?