'13 200 ProXS. Found oil in from of lower cowl. Cleaned it all out. Ran 25 miles yesterday. Opened cowl up again today to find oil in it again. It's not dripping out, but you can run you fingers around and get the ole high dollar DFI oil on your fingers. Checked all the oil lines, no leaks. I'm positive it's coming from the oil pump. Have any of you experienced this? How did you fix it other than a $500 oil pump? Can the oil pump be opened up and seals / o-rings be replaced?
Thanks, Clay
Last edited by clayc; 03-17-2018 at 06:54 PM.
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
There have been MANY discussions about this, just search these boards for all the info......
Click on this >>>>Oil Pump Leak
Click on this >>>>Leaking Oil Pump ProXS
Click on this >>>>Leaking oil pump.....
Click on this >>>>2009 opti pro xs 250 oil drip
Click on this >>>> Anyone have problems with oil pump on their Optimax?
Hopefully this will answer your question......
Last edited by Savage; 03-17-2018 at 03:37 PM.
Thanks for the info. I'm a fairly decent mechanic from a family of machinists,, so I have no fear of opening it up and replacing a o-ring. From what I've read, those pumps are fairly simple and aren't prone to failure, they just leak! Sounds like during the manufacturing process the o-ring groove was cut too deep, the assembly line used too small (thickness) of an o-ring, or they used the wrong type of o-ring that wasn't chemically stable for use with DFI or Premium Plus oil..Originally Posted by Savage
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
Make sure the Dealer performs an Oil Pump Prime sequence, with a CDS, IF you open that pump up. You can wipe out your motor, if the prime sequence is not performed properly.
Copy that! I was aware of the pump prime via CDS.. But hey, thanks for the reminder!
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
Do not repair. The oil pumps can be purchased for much less then $400. I will elborate more on this when I get to a real computer.
Mine is leaking from the oil pump, today I decided to open it up since I’m either replacing it or repairing it any way and it looks like a very simple repair
I think I’m going to replace the O ring and since I’m going to the dealer ship to have a oil pump prime done after a new compressor install and see how it goes
honestly you can’t even reinstall in incorrectly since there is a notch were the small plungers go, my though process was if it looked like it was something that I wasn’t confident in replacing I would just by a new pump but it’s almost like to simple not to replace the o ring
Of course there are several folks saying DON"T REPAIR.. I get some of their reasons, however, I just can't swallow not replacing an O-ring vs the cost of a pump. I've not found one comment where the pumps have failed. Just that they leak. The reality for me is this; someone somewhere assembled that pump by hand, so how is it that their work is better than mine? Bottom line, it's a hydraulic pump, and they all use O-rings, that eventually may need replacing for one reason or another. There are quotes on BBC saying leaks have developed as low as 20 hrs and as high as 500+. I know for a fact, your work space must be clean.. because any piece of dirt can cause a failure. Unless someone can provide me a pump that is considerably less than what I've priced. I will pull it apart and replace that defective O-ring.
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
You can purchase a new one for $358.47, just seems like a very basic system I was able press the plunger and see oil coming out of the disconnected compressor oil line
and I can understand why mercury doesn’t sell the o ring because the risk of a bad repair but have rebuilt trim units,steering helms, and steering rams and I confident that I can replace this o ring with my eyes closed, I read some posts were people say that changing the size of the can change pressures of the pump but if it’s leaking then the pressure is changed already and from what I can see this o ring would not change or effect pressures in any way but... we’ll see
2013 Pre-Johnny Ranger RT 178
115 PRO XS
Due to the increase of ammunition prices... There will be no warning shots
Honda certified Master technician 33 Years
It is up to you as it is your money. You are risking a very expensive motor over a few hundred dollars. It doesn’t make sense to me.
Also, make sure your dealership does not use the throttle method to do the oil prime. It does do an oil prime BUT also puts it in break-in mode...as in double oiling.
USN Retired
2020 Basscat Caracal
2020 Mercury 225 ProXS 4s
Where you getting it for that? The one's I priced were at lowest $495
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
But in reality what are you risking? If you are mechanicly inclined and have knowledge Im simply hand tools this is a simple fix
some people can’t do any kind of work related to engines,homeremolding, basic 12v electrical installs those kind of people shouldn’t even attempt it
it’s like getting a nail in a brand new tire you don’t throw it out you plug it but... you go to a tire shop and now you need 2 tires and an alignment
I am a handy guy myself but there is still NO WAY I would just replace the O ring. If I screwed up the install, the motor may not be getting enough oil and end up with a blown motor. How much is a new powerhead? That is the risk.
USN Retired
2020 Basscat Caracal
2020 Mercury 225 ProXS 4s
Exactly right you said “if I screwed up the install” then that could be the risk but I’m not going to screw up the install, also I think there is more “risk” running a bad direct injector and taking out the power head that way
like I said I went into it opened minded that if it was something that seemed risky I would just buy a new one but I feel that this is such a simple fix I can’t see paying 350$ for a new pump that could leak in 20 hours anyway
Called Merc, lady I spoke too was of no help. Wanted me to buy a new pump. Called back, spoke to a fella who was more helpful. Said to get with my dealer, who changed powerhead in August '17, who may be able to answer some questions and get it replace with little to nothing outta pocket.
Last edited by clayc; 04-03-2018 at 01:54 AM.
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
I replace the O-ring in my 250 pro. I did not remove it from the engine. I simply pulled the front coil off of it. I installed A new oh ring, took it to the dealer, had the pump primed. All is well. I have used it in probably about 15 hours. Haven't checked yet to see if the leak is stopped. Easy peezy.
GETFISHED !!!
This is exactly what I would recommend doing.
I regularly build and rebuild some pretty high-dollar components (some of which are very critical, too). I've pulled a couple of these pumps down, and don't feel that replacing only one o-ring is the "ticket" for me or my customers.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Ouch !
GETFISHED !!!
Ok,, after all the research I've done, I've decided to replace the o-ring. Here are my findings and opinion.
This pump is nothing that intricate, actually it's fairly simple. Plungers with o-rings and a sealing o-ring. I measured the original o-ring thickness diameter (.0886"), and inspected the groove. The groove was either machined too deep or the manufacturer used too small an o-ring. I replaced it with an o-ring (provided by a BBC member who replaced his) which measured .0951",, that's a .0075" difference. The original o-ring was flattened on one side that appeared to be from crush and memoried from heat. After showing my father (a 30+ yr machinist, who built hydraulic systems and ground those parts with tolerances in the millionths) pics of this part he shook his head at the cost. He said the groove was machined too deep, incorrect size o-ring, or the face of the pump needs 2-3 thousandths ground off of it to provide the proper crush pressure on the o-ring! He agreed, no way in hell he'd give Merc $500 for a part that was probably built overseas and has a loose +\- tolerance. So, tomorrow, I will have the pump primed by a Merc Tech!
Last edited by clayc; 04-04-2018 at 11:04 PM.
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
Reply With Quote
