Great stuff. How do I get engine data to appear on my N2k Garmin fish finder? Do I connect into the N2k T-bone tree, #11? Would I connect I-Command directly into the N2k-T bone Tree, #11 as well?
Thanks very much for your diagram.
Originally Posted by Evinrude57
This is a rigging diagram of a premium controller installation, #11 is going to be in every G2 installation and what would take the place of the harness you are referring to.
Last edited by deepanchor; 04-20-2018 at 05:06 PM.
Yes, just add as many Ts into the backbone as you need for devices.
So if I choose not to add the 3.5" digital display I can then add N2k T-bone connector for the I-Command Gauge and and N2k T-Bone connector for the the MDS (Garmin or Lowrance) fish finders and I'm good to go? If so this is really simple. Even simpler. Yes?
Yes, that simple.
+1 to Evinrude57 said very simple. As for prices posted to have a C150FLH with DPS for only $575 more then the C150PLH without DPS it would be a non brainer in my opinion. Once you have used a DPS unit you would understand.
This is a interesting journey. So how can you void engine warranty if yo connect N2k Etec G2 boat to traditional analog gauges? I've tried to search I-Command gauges you and you cannot find them online anywhere anymore. Wow! So my only options is Icon 3.5CS at $630?
So if I my boat comes connected to analog gauges from Triton and then connect into the N2k T-Bone network to my Garmin N2k graph I could violate BRP warranty? Help me out here guys. Seems I making this harder than it needs to be.
Does the Icon 3.5CS come with the Etec G2 engines? Love the engine but educating myself into this new technology is a challenge for me at least. Also, the Triton Dashes are not setup to take square 3.5CS. Yikes, I'm confused and lost.
No, i only said approved Evinrude gauges. If you have systemcheck gauges hooked up and working properly that will satisfy the requirement. With Premium control traditional analog gauges are not a popular option because a converter must be purchased, once you add the price of a converter and the systemcheck tach and trim gauge you might as well went with a digital option. The standard controller has the ability to use analog gauges without a converter which makes the whole package more economical.
I-Command gauges have been discontinued as of last year and is why the might be difficult to find. For those who require round gauges right now Icon Pro gauges are the only digital option.
This is a diagram of a premium controller and systemcheck gauges.
Last edited by Evinrude57; 04-20-2018 at 06:09 PM.
We have plenty of I-Command gauges and in the shed are three new 90HP HO's that will have I-Command gauges in the engine box. I just did a quick search and on the Evinrude US website I found info on I-Command as well as sites like Ebay etc. I agree about going back to system check gauge and it would be cheaper to buy just an I-Command vs the converter and then a System check gauge.
As been pointed out to you in your part of the world pretty much no outboard engine 'comes" with any gauges/rigging kit in the engine box, but yes if someone wants a 3.5CS they can buy it as part of a rigging kit, but if the square gauge does not suit the dash just get an ICON or I-Command-pretty simple in my opinion.
Okay, I'm sure from Triton the tradition system check gauges will be installed. That should cover me on the warranty issue if I now connect N2k cable from MDS (Garmin) to the T-Bridge bar inside the Etec G2 motor? If so this will solve all my questions and energy. Thanks to your and Evinrude57 for the support. I hope others like me learn from this thread considering aftermarket N2k attempts N2k to the Etec G2. I'm not ruling out the 3.5CS. I have to find a flat space on the 180TRX to install it. Who knows I'm also considering BassCat Pantera Classic. That dash is design to add 3.5 CS type flat devices.
Now I plan do go sans DPS. Personal choice and subject to debate. I know what I"m getting into. That said. Hydraulic steering reduces the weight of the motor by 40lbs (I think). With that said there is less setback so could I use a 6" Jackplate with the C150PLH for this version of the 150HO Etec G2?
I have options now in development.
One last query.
1. Is there a N2k T-connector tree in all the 150HO Etecs to 200 G2 small block engines?
2. If so to confirm again then should be able to connect into the T-connector network tree and then run that cable to a MFD unit like my Garmin to display engine data?
If not I will more than likely add a BRP ICON 3.5CS screen then add the additional N2k cable to display engine data on my Garmin's. However, my next challenge is where to locate on my Triton order.
Understanding and confirming this will finally educate me to my objectives to enjoy all the things I feel make the Etec G2 the most advanced motor on on the market today.
Thank you everyone!
1. Yes every G2, and its not on the engine its in the boat as part of the motors rigging. That diagram is equipment installed in the boat.
2. Yes
Outstanding forum support. I am now informed in my future boating plans and N2K for the G2 motors.
I'd like to continue the Q&A if Deep has reached his objective with this thread.
I don't want to hijack it but thought it easier to continue here since some of my information is here versus starting a completely new thread..
If so, I'd like to know how to add a trim gauge to my setup. I would like it to be digital if the sensor is currently on the network. Recall I have the premium controls with the analog system check gauges. I have 3 gauges, tach, water pressure and fuel level. BTW the water pressure reading is useless and shows 6 psi sitting in my garage after taking it out yesterday. Not sure if this has something to do with the D/A signal calibration but found it to be just as unreliable on its first outing yesterday showing 12 psi sitting still in the water.
My motor information: Model C150FLHAA, Serial number 5480723.
Thanks in advance!
Hijack away. I"m set. Also, your question has my interest!
Deep: Just my 2 cents here. If I was building a boat motor package, I would not go for the analog gauges and the d/a converter. It seems like such a waste to have all the digital data and then convert it all to analog. There's also the potential of getting incorrect information as I'm seeing on my water pressure gauge noted above. However, I do prefer the round dial gauges versus say the ICON 3.5 CS. I've seen the 3.5 CS in a 4.5" round gauge cluster and don't like the look, strictly my opinion though. In my case, based on the feedback of the Evinrude gurus, I need to add the trim gauge at minimum but may also consider swapping out all the system check gauges I have for the combo basic or pro gauges.
I understand that you're looking to bring in that data to a Garmin or MFD but I'm unsure how complete that data is and what the interface looks like. In my case, I'd be using a Bird and haven't spent much time researching that.
If you have a N2k compliant fish finder like Garmin, Lowarance, Humminbird you can display more engine related data you can ever ask for. To me I can't answer your trim question exactly. I suspect it may appear by default in one of the fish finders mentioned above by connecting the N2k from one of these units to the T-bridge network coming from your motor.
For my recently re-powered 150 HO G2, I kept my analog system check gauges and got the E-Link box and E-Link app for my phone. The only thing I have found so far I the existing trim gauge only reads for half the range of the gauge. Otherwise every thing else seems OK.
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