Need Trailer Info Help - Tandem Axle Conversion - 295 XL

[CDN Bass]

2004 Stratos 295 Pro XL trailer

After an exhaustive search for a used tandem axle trailer up here in Canada, I believe that a tandem axle conversion may be in order.

Therefore I found that the manufacturer of the trailer is SC Trailers, Murfreesboro, TN ph: 615-895-5190 (registered to Stratos Boats/disconnected), which is now defunct.

I have found sources for:

- Tandem axle tapered fender sources
- hangers, springs, and hardware (local)
- welder (local buddy)

The data/mfg sticker is still on the starboard frame of the trailer and shows that its a 3520 Lb axle with ST205/74R14C tires

Questions:

1) How do I source a duplicate axle and hubs?
2) Who made the wheels? (I need at least one, since I can use the spare and substitute that with a regular wheel)

I intend to do most of the tear down myself, marking the pivot, spring perch and axle points, scribing and cutting the step pads to fit, but the welding I'll leave to a pro. The trailer has brakes, which I'll leave on the front axle.

Does anyone know who the suppliers were for Stratos (axles/hubs/wheels) back in the '90's, or how I can find out?

[Hometownhandyman]

There is a trailer manufacturer here in Hamilton, Ont that was able to match the axle for a Ranger Trail for me. http://nandotrailers.com/ He may need you to pull it down to compare. I am certain that there is a manufacturer closer to you that could do the same.

[CDN Bass]

There is a trailer manufacturer here in Hamilton, Ont that was able to match the axle for a Ranger Trail for me. http://nandotrailers.com/ He may need you to pull it down to compare. I am certain that there is a manufacturer closer to you that could do the same.

Thanks, man! I was thinking the same thing about local trailer builders. I'll look into it. I was planning on crawling under the trailer to see if I can find a part or serial number on the axle.

BTW, did you do the work yourself, or have nando do it? ... and what did it set you back? You can PM me if you want.

[spookem]

UFP by Dexter made the axle hubs and brakes.

They have two offices one in CA and the other is in TN I think. Let me know how the project goes I'd like to do the same

http://www.dexteraxle.com/ufp/home

[CDN Bass]

UFP by Dexter made the axle hubs and brakes.

They have two offices one in CA and the other is in TN I think. Let me know how the project goes I'd like to do the same

http://www.dexteraxle.com/ufp/home

LOL! Your PM confused me. My buddy in NS did a conversion and told me the same about UFP that is now owned by Dexter.

Thanks for the info and I'll keep you posted.

[Nightmare]

I did a similar conversion about 8 years ago. After pricing axles and various components, I located and bought a complete used trailer. I scavenged the axle, springs, brake system and wheels for the trailer price of $400. I was using my original trailer/frame and aside from relocating axle position/s obviously, I cut and extended the 2nd axle by 4" to match.

Saved around $1500-2000 over buying all new individual components. All work done at the farm shop. If you have the resources, flip trailer upside-down and set on 55 gallon drums to work on....perfect working height.

[CDN Bass]

I did a similar conversion about 8 years ago. After pricing axles and various components, I located and bought a complete used trailer. I scavenged the axle, springs, brake system and wheels for the trailer price of $400. I was using my original trailer/frame and aside from relocating axle position/s obviously, I cut and extended the 2nd axle by 4" to match.

Saved around $1500-2000 over buying all new individual components. All work done at the farm shop. If you have the resources, flip trailer upside-down and set on 55 gallon drums to work on....perfect working height.

I like the used trailer idea. Gonna start looking into that at the local wreckers and also spread the word around. My trailer already has brakes, so I'll keep those on the forward axle. I'll save some coin there.

UFP/Dexter has the matching hubs. I can make an axle if necessary from steel channel like the existing one on the trailer. I found a set of used Stratos fenders with some repairable damage. I can get a tandem hanger set/springs at the local Princess Auto, County Depot, or TSC.

I do have 45 gal drums (and a back hoe) to flip it over and onto. That'll work too, and my buddy has a Lincoln welder on a trailer. I live in the country, so we're a pretty close knit community and resourceful too.

Sourcing a matching wheel for the three that I have may be difficult. I don't care if the future spare doesn't match.

Thanks for the great ideas!

[pauldavid]

you don't really need both axles to have brakes , but if you do go with brakes on one axle instead of both, put the axle with
brakes n the rear

[CDN Bass]

you don't really need both axles to have brakes , but if you do go with brakes on one axle instead of both, put the axle with
brakes n the rear

So, I researched and came up with two answers to that issue.

Torsion axles = front axle
https://www.etrailer.com/question-18383.html

Sprung axles = rear axle
https://www.etrailer.com/question-52624.html

Also one has to note that since inertia carries the weight forward under braking, it is often recommended that the brakes be installed on the front axle. But if most of the weight is in the rear (as is with a bass boat), then install the brakes on the rear.

However, there is another dilemma. The tandem axle trailer and the single axle trailer for the 294/295 are the same length. Axle position on the single axle should be the pivot point (center) for the pivot hanger on a double axle, but this does not appear to be so when inspecting pictures of the two trailers. The front axle on a tandem appears to be only slightly forward of that on a single, with the rear axle positioned accordingly.

Having said that, I believe that now I would need to find the axle location measurements, or at the very least, the pivot point from the rear of the frame (extension tang) on a tandem axle trailer.

The saga continues.

[Nightmare]

I can't recall the logic we used at the time but I believe we placed the rocker hanger about 5" to the rear of the original single axle location. In either case, you winch stand is adjustable and establishes linear position of the boat on the trailer and front/rear weight balance.

Lastly, something to keep in mind if given a choice - the further forward the axles, the quicker the maneuverability because of shorter turning radius....the further back, the obverse. Makes a lot of difference when backing in tight quarters.

[CDN Bass]

I can't recall the logic we used at the time but I believe 1) we placed the rocker hanger about 5" to the rear of the original single axle location. In either case, your 2) winch stand is adjustable and establishes linear position of the boat on the trailer and front/rear weight balance.

Lastly, something to keep in mind if given a choice - 3) the further forward the axles, the quicker the maneuverability because of shorter turning radius....the further back, the obverse. Makes a lot of difference when backing in tight quarters.

1) That's what I figured on the location of the axles, it's not cut and dry.

2) I just bought the boat last fall. The fellow who owned it had moved the boat too far forward on the trailer so that he could fit it in his garage. It doesn't load properly as the nose comes in about 3" below the bow/ roller on the winch stand, and the bunks stick out about 3" behind the pad. I'll be moving that back down (and the boat back) so I don't have to get in the water and lift the nose of the boat to clear. That will redistribute the weight farther back over/between the axles.

I'm also removing the hydraulic jack plate and replacing it with a manual that I can set and forget, since the hydraulic adds unnecessary weight and is absolutely useless to me (I fish big deep water). I can see the use of an HJP, since the boat came from NS, where the longest lake is 17 miles long, and all the other lakes of 7 miles or less are shallow rock filled reservoirs. I took the boat out three times after I got it, and spent more time f*&%$#g with the darn thing, than actually just plain hole shotting. I absolutely hate it.

3) I'm not too worried about maneuverability, since the launches here have plenty of room (but somewhat steep), my garage or barn is plenty big, and I have 22 acres to swing it around.

I really need/want the tandem for distance towing, since I will be travelling an hour or more on occasion to some real sweet spots. My previous stomping grounds were Lake Nipissing (4 1/2 hrs), and I'll be heading up there a few times after I retire next year.

Thanks for your advice!


** I'm still looking for a wheel or two!

[CDN Bass]

Found wheels:

14x5.5 HiSpec Series 04 Star Aluminum Trailer Wheel 5 Lug

I hope!

[CDN Bass]

There is a trailer manufacturer here in Hamilton, Ont that was able to match the axle for a Ranger Trail for me. http://nandotrailers.com/ He may need you to pull it down to compare. I am certain that there is a manufacturer closer to you that could do the same.

I stalked one of your previous posts that stated you have a tandem Stratos trailer.

Do you have the bottom length of a stock Stratos tandem axle teardrop fender with 14" wheels ?

I do know that it is tapered from 9" on bottom to 7 1/2" on top. I getting a parts list together.

If anyone else wants to chime in ....

Thanks!

[Nightmare]

1) ...... bunks stick out about 3" behind the pad. I'll be moving that back down (and the boat back) so I don't have to get in the water and lift the nose of the boat to clear. That will redistribute the weight farther back over/between the axles............ the hydraulic adds unnecessary weight and is absolutely useless to me (I fish big deep water)......I really need/want the tandem for distance towing.....

Keep in mind, is better to have bunks stick past transom than vice versa. Helps prevent a "hook" in the hull and other stress.

Hydraulic vs manual is a personal choice. Have run both and would prefer hyd over man myself just from versatility aspect. Once set for your conditions, you don't HAVE to change the hyd - but you can - and with ease....man, not so much. Being able to sink that motor down on big heavy waters makes for better handling - not all about shallow stuff and speed. Your boat - your preference, just food for thought (ain't eatin' anything, right? :)

Distance was one reason I wanted the tandem. Ride & safety. My trips run me 10-12 hrs sometimes, so both count.

I used to have a site with a group and had my whole project explained with extensive photo series. Site's gone now and so is info or I'd share with you.

Sounds like things are going well and you have a plan. Good luck.

[CDN Bass]

1) Keep in mind, is better to have bunks stick past transom than vice versa. Helps prevent a "hook" in the hull and other stress.

Hydraulic vs manual is a personal choice. Have run both and would prefer hyd over man myself just from versatility aspect. Once set for your conditions, you don't HAVE to change the hyd - but you can - and with ease....man, not so much. 2) Being able to sink that motor down on big heavy waters makes for better handling - not all about shallow stuff and speed. Your boat - your preference, just food for thought (ain't eatin' anything, right? :)

Distance was one reason I wanted the tandem. Ride & safety. My trips run me 10-12 hrs sometimes, so both count.

I used to have a site with a group and had my whole project explained with extensive photo series. Site's gone now and so is info or I'd share with you.

Sounds like things are going well and you have a plan. Good luck.

1) I'll remember that, but I will still have the low bow loading issue... not good, since I fish alone quite often. I could always extend the bunks.

2) I may just keep the HJP since it's paid for, and I'm repowering with a freshly rebuilt 225 Pro XS (can't find 200's in Canada).

As for a plan. it's on it's way. I have the welding shop just around the corner that is willing to do all the work that includes idler axle, hubs, springs, equalizer, hardware and welding. I've sourced the right wheels and tires. Just looking for the proper fenders at a reasonable price. I should come in at around $1000 CAD, which is a lot cheaper than another trailer.

Too bad the site is gone. Do you have a bottom length measurement for your fender?

Thanks, man!

[Nightmare]

If you can email me with an explanation and (better yet) a drawing or pic of "bottom length measurement for your fender". I'll do what I can for you, to help.

I'm having a lapse of comprehension on that question. Probably stupid on my part.

[CDN Bass]

If you can email me with an explanation and (better yet) a drawing or pic of "bottom length measurement for your fender". I'll do what I can for you, to help.

I'm having a lapse of comprehension on that question. Probably stupid on my part.

I tried uploading a sketch... no go. Email sent.

[Nightmare]

Sent a pm - didn't get an email.

[CDN Bass]

Coming along nicely. My welder came over and checked the trailer (he's done a bunch). He's going to install a matching idler drop axle with hubs and all the associated hardware.

Now all I need is fenders (which I may have found).

Now off to Cuba in the morning for some sun, sand, surf, and fishing! See you guys next week!

[Jgoodbassin]

Following, looking to do the same with my 201 pro trailer.