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  1. #1
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    marine crimp connection tool

    Can anyone with first hand experience suggest the best crimp on connector tool for marine applications? Something for 14 to 8 ga wire? I have a large compound leverage one for larger terminals, but am looking for something that works well for smaller wires. I have never used any wire smaller than 14ga. Thanks

  2. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #2
    For the smaller gauge wires I use an automotive style crimper with multiple ports.
    IMO so long as the crimp is solid the most important thing is making the connection as water tight as possible. Marine grade shrink tube is invaluable.
    My favorite connectors especially butt splice are heavy duty marine shrink with a built in solder ring that is activated by a heat gun -- Solders and seals in one motion.

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    #3
    These crimps will work for 90% of the crimps you make

    https://www.gmesupply.com/1005-klein...RoC3soQAvD_BwE

  4. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #4
    I have one like that but it has two sizes of each = 4 ports

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    #5
    http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703010

    per anchor the klein type tool will damage the outer plastic core of the crimp connector and render it less waterproof...
    2016 Tracker pro team 175txw 75hp 4 stroke
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  6. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #6
    Any crimper designed to indent one side will breach the plastic outer cover.. I've found for best results use connectors with no cover or simply remove it. Slide the desired length of the appropriate sized marine grade shrink tube on the wire before making the crimp then place it over crimp and heat !!

  7. Moderator
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    #7
    The crimp ratchet tool doesn't break the plastic. It doesn't crimp one side, compresses both sides evenly. The pair i have work awesome with shrink tube.

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    #8
    Sorry to hijack....

    Is crimping one side bad? I went to a truck shop to get my wires crimped....told the guy what I was doing and he told me just to buy this (http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...yABEgIeW_D_BwE) and that it would do the job.

    I bought ancor terminal lugs and used the hammer crimper on them. Covered up with marine heat shrink after....and it looked good. TM worked ok today.....wiring is easily accesible....would I need to keep an eye on things and possibly need to recrimp and rewire?

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    #9
    I don't think you can do any better than buying the crimp tool that was designed by the folks who made the crimp connector.......ancor, if in an exposed location even with ancor crimp tool and waterproof adhesive lined connectors i would still follow with a marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink......

    http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/prod...rs/heat-shrink

    http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/prod...rink/3-16-inch
    Last edited by suvowner; 03-11-2018 at 03:37 PM.
    2016 Tracker pro team 175txw 75hp 4 stroke
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  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    Any crimper designed to indent one side will breach the plastic outer cover.. I've found for best results use connectors with no cover or simply remove it. Slide the desired length of the appropriate sized marine grade shrink tube on the wire before making the crimp then place it over crimp and heat !!
    For the small crimps, this is the method to use and the Klein crimpers mentioned above work well. The plastic outer shell is intended more to help distinguish the size by sight (yellow, blue, red) than to be protective. Appropriate heat shrink -- not electrical tape -- gives it the seal after crimping.
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    #11
    John, in skilled hands anything will work on crimp connections. For many of us who don't do a bunch of crimps. The adjustable ratchet (if you get a decent one takes some of the guesswork out of how hard to squish the crimp connectors and where to squish them. Some will even let you just hold the one wire in place in the crimp so you can put the other in without the 3rd hand involved. I have seen you experts do crimping and it looks like magic to me. Fast neat and done correctly. I have not seen many shade tree mechanics do a very good job without one. JMHO. Bob
    You can spend more but rewired my boat and it looks good but is done correctly. Get the anchor connectors in the correct sizes for your Marine wire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Last edited by bobcoy; 03-11-2018 at 08:45 PM.

  12. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    Any crimper designed to indent one side will breach the plastic outer cover.. I've found for best results use connectors with no cover or simply remove it. Slide the desired length of the appropriate sized marine grade shrink tube on the wire before making the crimp then place it over crimp and heat !!
    This is what I do. Hasn’t failed me yet. Cut the wire, insert into a bare connector, get a clean crimp, seal it all the way up and over the end of the wire with double wall adhesive shrink wrap. The plastic covers on any connector, marine grade or any other quality tinned connector, is pretty much worthless for providing a watertight seal regardless of how it’s crimped. It’ll work, but it’s not the preferred method. Crimp a bare connector and shrink wrap. The Ancor crispers are nice, but I have 3-4 Kleins in the shop that work fine.
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorCat View Post
    This is what I do. Hasn’t failed me yet. Cut the wire, insert into a bare connector, get a clean crimp, seal it all the way up and over the end of the wire with double wall adhesive shrink wrap. The plastic covers on any connector, marine grade or any other quality tinned connector, is pretty much worthless for providing a watertight seal regardless of how it’s crimped. It’ll work, but it’s not the preferred method. Crimp a bare connector and shrink wrap. The Ancor crispers are nice, but I have 3-4 Kleins in the shop that work fine.
    Don't forget to strip the wire after you cut the wire.

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    #14
    These are really inexpensive and heavy enough to do a reasonably good job on wires up to perhaps a #10. They are cast iron. The stamped steel automobile style crimp tools are really bad at making crimps. Less than $7.00.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-...ool-36411.html

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    #15
    I was also in the same situation and found using a vise grip is best tool for making the crimp and not breaking the plastic. Also after the crimp I go over them with liquid electrical tape for a water tight seal. I have tried the channellock crimper and return them.

  16. Member Corkpuller's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by dsgb View Post
    I was also in the same situation and found using a vise grip is best tool for making the crimp and not breaking the plastic.
    Good Godfree Daniel. Vise grips have no business crimping anything electrical.


    "ain't too smart.....but I'm always thinkin"

  17. Member Corkpuller's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    These are really inexpensive and heavy enough to do a reasonably good job on wires up to perhaps a #10. They are cast iron. The stamped steel automobile style crimp tools are really bad at making crimps. Less than $7.00.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-...ool-36411.html
    Look careful at the photo of the crimpers in the above link. For those that are confused or uncertain about the difference in crimping bare and insulated(what some are calling plastic coated) butt splices and / or fork(spade) and ring connectors.

    The part of the tool that has the "hump" (farthest from the cutting end) is for bare connectors, the part that is just above that(toward the cutting end) is for insulated connectors. If used properly, you will not break the insulation (plastic coating). If you crimp an insulated connector with "hump" section and really mash the shit out of it, it can bust the "plastic coating".

    As RazorCat said, the plastic coating, which I'll add is actually called an insulated connector or butt splice, is not for sealing from elements. It is for insulating against contact of any other bare wire or connection in the same vicinity.

    The first 20 of my 37 yrs with the "Light Company" doing Substation work, provided me more days of crimping and terminating wires than I care to remember.
    Klein is king for the type of work I did.


    "ain't too smart.....but I'm always thinkin"

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    #18
    I use the Channelock crimping tool. Bought it about ten years ago. Cost is 33 CAD.


    https://www.channellock.com/product/909/
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    #19
    Doesn't anyone solder anymore.?

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket man View Post
    Doesn't anyone solder anymore.?
    I soldered and heat shrinked all of my connections years ago and have never had any issues. This was before I read about how that was a bad idea in marine applications.

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