marine crimp connection tool

[Ben Danbleume]

I soldered and heat shrinked all of my connections years ago and have never had any issues. This was before I read about how that was a bad idea in marine applications.

Strange, my installers soldered when they wired my boat.

[billnorman1]

I was an electrician (aircraft) by trade for about 20 years and picked up a few crimping tools and techniques. I can install terminal lugs/ends on wires up to about 8/0 and down to #22 (strip). Anyhow, I have approved ratchet crimp tools, crimpers that you use two arms/hands to operate and rotating die crimp tools among others. The reason I suggested the Harbor Fright tool is it is strong enough to make a daily driver crimp. Not quite a NASA quality job, but it gets the job done for the handyman. And, like me, cheap.

[bockscar]

I was an electrician (aircraft) by trade for about 20 years and picked up a few crimping tools and techniques. I can install terminal lugs/ends on wires up to about 8/0 and down to #22 (strip). Anyhow, I have approved ratchet crimp tools, crimpers that you use two arms/hands to operate and rotating die crimp tools among others. The reason I suggested the Harbor Fright tool is it is strong enough to make a daily driver crimp. Not quite a NASA quality job, but it gets the job done for the handyman. And, like me, cheap.

are there any negatives to using one of those crimpers you hammer down? lots of info in here has me worrying now? lol

[pcmc19057]

For heat shrink connectors I use FTZ Controlled Cycle Crimp Tool
22 - 10 AWG • Compound Action
They work very well
Paul
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/mari...ftz-industries

[RazorCat]

I’ve been following this topic closely as I’m in the process of re-terminating some connections on my Sabre FTD. All will be 10 AWG or smaller. I can see the strengths of both styles of crimpers in the 10-22 AWG wire range. For bare terminals to be protected with adhesive heat shrink either style should provide a solid crimped connection if used properly with a good quality tinned terminal.
The ratcheting crimpers will work somewhat better for terminals that come with heat shrink attached, but the Kleins I use have never caused me any issues with heat shrink terminals on the rare occasions I use them. A bare terminal with double walled adhesive heat shrink applied after crimping is far superior to other types (in my experience) because you can completely cover the crimp, and the bare wire ends.
Here’s an article about soldering vs. crimping. No real up side to soldering in most cases.
http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html

[Windy City]

Thanks everyone for the good conversation. I ordered a pair of the ratcheting Anchor brand tools. I can agree with using a bare crimp connector, and using double thick adhesive heat shrink. But, I am not trying to reinvent the wheel either. For many connections the Anchor brand marine connectors with the pre-installed adhesive heat shrink will be fitting. Plus, I have a bunch of them.

Again, thanks all for the replies!

[billnorman1]

.................................................. .......... A bare terminal with double walled adhesive heat shrink applied after crimping is far superior to other types (in my experience) because you can completely cover the crimp, and the bare wire ends.
Here’s an article about soldering vs. crimping. No real up side to soldering in most cases.
http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html

Good article. Many do not know about wicking. The worst thing outside hitting a connector with a hammer is those stamped steel crimp tools auto "mechanics" use.
You newer guys might also try a bottle of "Liquid Electric Tape" also available at Harbor Fright. There may be a down side to using it but I frequently apply it under and around the end of heat shrink to lock moisture out.
You should also be able to pull hard on the wire going into a splice or terminal lug after you crimp it. If it comes out, re-examine your tools or techniques.

[RazorCat]

I recently bought several lengths of 4 AWG cable with heavy duty tinned copper terminals from Genuine Dealz.
They were perfectly die crimped and had double wall adhesive heat wrap applied. Exceptional quality. And reasonably priced.
I absolutely recommend their pre-made cables. I’m going to order some tinned copper cable lugs for my smaller wiring as I get time to redo them.

[RazorCat]

Here's a couple of articles I found on wire crimping. I have to say I learned a couple of things. And after reading I will agree that a good ratcheting crimper is probably worth the investment for getting consistent crimps on #10-#22 terminal and wire sizes.
https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

The crimpers sold at https://marinehowto.com look to be top quality. I'll be ordering the PRO-MODULAR crimp tool today. $44.95 isn't a bad price or that level of quality. And you can order different dies to meet specific needs.
The best quality heat shrink terminals I've seen for the price are those (again) on Genuine Dealz. They're FTZ branded terminals. FTZ invented the heat shrink terminal, so they should be top quality.

I'm not affiliated with either site. Don't want this to sound like a sales pitch. Just passing on information on sites that I've found to have consistently high quality products.

[suvowner]

Thanks everyone for the good conversation. I ordered a pair of the ratcheting Anchor brand tools. I can agree with using a bare crimp connector, and using double thick adhesive heat shrink. But, I am not trying to reinvent the wheel either. For many connections the Anchor brand marine connectors with the pre-installed adhesive heat shrink will be fitting. Plus, I have a bunch of them.

Again, thanks all for the replies!

I do like my pair, it is a really nice tool....I also have the other style which works but I sure like the crimp I get from the anchor

[Ches.]

I soldered and heat shrinked all of my connections years ago and have never had any issues. This was before I read about how that was a bad idea in marine applications.

Why is it bad?

[Dh0ckey11]

How in the world is soldering bad? I try to solder but connections if possible, but for end terminals I use the harbor freight crimper and heat shrink, or the marine ancor terminals with heat shrink on them. I haven't had problems breaking through the plastic and heat shrink on the Ancor ones, but you might if you stand on the crimper.

[orangeglo]

Why is soldering bad for marine?

Solder can cause galvanic corrosion.
Flux used to apply solder is naturally corrosive.
Solder is brittle and not ideal for high impact or high vibration applications.

Most of the issues associated with solder can be alleviated by using the correct solder alloy and properly cleaning a solder connection.
However, the vast majority of people making soldering connections will not use the correct alloy for the application, they will not clean the residual flux and will often not make a good solder connection in the first place.
This is compounded by not using adhesive heat shrink to seal the connection and then failing to secure the wires properly to reduce vibration.
A solder connection will work fine for a quite a while, but it will never last as long as a properly crimped connection.

A properly crimped connection is industry standard and is very well suited to marine applications.

I use a SG Tool Aid SGT18980 for most crimps.
https://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SG...dp/B008EW92LY/

I also use a YQK-70A 10Ton Hydraulic Crimping Press for bigger stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Hydraulic...dp/B00KHY7SOA/

Good terminals are also important. Adhesive heat shrink terminals are my preference for automotive and marine applications.

[AllyFishing]

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703010

per anchor the klein type tool will damage the outer plastic core of the crimp connector and render it less waterproof...

this is by far the best crimp tool I've ever seen

[friogatto]

I tried the Harbor freight ratchet crimper but failed after about 20 crimps.
Switched to the Ancor ratcheting crimper and have crimped 50+ connectors still going strong.
http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703030

The ancor one is definitely a step up in quality.

Also noticed if you use the cheap connectors the ancor tool wont hold very well and wire can be pulled out. I see this as a problem with the cheap connectors using thin metal and not a tool issue.

Edit: these are double crimp vs single crimp. Single is probably easier, crimp the left side, then crimp the right side. The double crimp you have to take it out of the tool and turn the connector around to crimp the other side.

[billnorman1]

.......................

Also noticed if you use the cheap connectors the ancor tool wont hold very well and wire can be pulled out. I see this as a problem with the cheap connectors using thin metal and not a tool issue.
.....................................

You bring up another factoid. There's connectors and there's good connectors. I will not use the splices with the thin metal barrels or the same lugs either. They're crap. No matter what tool you use they are no good.

[BigMouth]

Can someone give me an opinion on this Titan tool? Seems to get good reviews . . .

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-1...ing+crimp+tool

[Ben Danbleume]

Just use the crimpers recommended by the manufacture, Ancor crimpers and terminals, problem solved.

[Texas Larry]

I have soldered and crimped connectors for more years than I would like to admit both on and off the job. I have soldered (used electrical tape before Heat Shrink came out) and heat shrinked connectors on my boats and vehicles since the 70's with no problems. I have to admit that I have recently used some of the new heat shrink but splices and connectors that are available now, and they seem to work great, but I still "tin" the wires before I crimp and heat them.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...X-TK/205861923