1987 Bumble Bee V187 Restoration Project

[boito]

I dropped a whopping $250 for a 1987 Phoenix Bumble Bee V187. I really have NO idea what I'm getting into because I've never restored a bass boat before. I created a Google Photos album to track the progress:

• https://photos.app.goo.gl/pVG2eve3cWBnxr1n2

I do have a little experience with restoring boats. Here's the little 12' 1968 Nichols Aluminum Jon Boat I rebuilt last summer, which gave me Bass Boat Fever:

• https://photos.app.goo.gl/jBAXzyA69Z3U8xti1

So, I have a TON of questions for all of the experienced folks here, but I'll start with just a few:

• Any ideas where I can find a manual? I sent a message to the manufacturer this morning, but I'm not sure if they'll have anything useful.
• Does anyone else here own one of these boats? Any pictures of what it's supposed to look like?
• What's your advice on getting a motor? I like to figure sh^* out, so I'm not afraid to buy something used that needs some work, but I'm not even sure how the motor would even connect to the boat (wiring, steering, throttle, trim, tilt, or whatever else is required)
• How difficult is it to strip and repaint an entire boat? Obviously, it's a lot of work, but if anyone can offer some advice, that'd be great. I found some YouTube videos that talk about repairing, but not that show a total re-paint. I'd like to paint it a metal-flake red to match my truck :)
• Any other advice you can offer is appreciated. Any other posts in the forum that already answer my questions you can point me to?

I'm planning on working on this all spring and summer, but hopefully get it on the water before summer is over.

Thanks!

Rob (boito)

[CastingCall]

Welcome to BBC! You sure picked a project.
Start with reading some of the sticky topics at the top of this Restoration forum about restoring gelcoat, and doing carpet work.
To start, you should verify the transom and/or stringers are not rotten. If they are, stop now and decide if you want to sink anymore money into fixing these structural items! They will cost time and effort to fix properly, whether it's hog out the transom and repour a new one, to partial cut-away and fix transom/stringers, or complete top bap removal and rebuild of transom/stringers from the bottom up.

Any motor you get, you'll need the controls/ignition and throttle/shift cables to hook it up - so make sure they're included if buying used. You've got a hotfoot pedal... you'll need to decide if you want to keep that and hook it up again, or remove it and stick with control lever for shifting/throttle.
For steering, it looks like it might have a single cable steering already; you'll want to upgrade to either a dual-cable, or hydraulic steering set-up for higher horsepower engines.

Google boat wiring to see schematics for re-wiring the boat - you'll definitely want to start with all new wiring vs. dealing with anything old and splicing in! It's tedious work, but if you think through it, plan out a schematic and work logically through the various systems, it's not rocket science.
The existing gauge panels (they bolt to the outside of the console, BTW) likely had a tach that's missing (large hole), and typically fuel gauge, water pressure (critical so you know engine is getting a steady stream of water for cooling), and tilt/trim gauge. Voltage gauge is a fourth common gauge, but not critical.

After all that, then worry about finish, carpet and upholstery.
For finish, you could try wet sanding/compound/polish... might be a bit far gone for that though. Almost looks like it has an automotive clearcoat over the factory fiberglass gelcoat. That would have to be stripped off first. Options are: Restore original finish (if possible), re-gelcoat, paint with automotive paint, or vinyl wrap. The latter may be a better option as far as amount of work involved.

[CastingCall]

Oh, and check out this thread on a member's restoration of a '90s Bumblebee.
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=868998

[boito]

Thanks! This is all very helpful. I really have no idea what I'm getting into.

Any thoughts on how I can check the transom and stringers? I'm guessing I need to cut away some fiberglass to get to it, right?

[CastingCall]

Thanks! This is all very helpful. I really have no idea what I'm getting into.
Any thoughts on how I can check the transom and stringers? I'm guessing I need to cut away some fiberglass to get to it, right?

Not necessarily. Some here have explained how to tap on the hull and monitor the "thuds" as a rough start to determine if the transom is solid or not.
Put a hefty 2x4 in the jackplate, and pull on it as hard as you can while someone watches for any flexing in the transom. It should be solid, with no movement.
Look for cracks along the transom (inside and outside), and in the splashwell area.
You can unbolt the jackplate on the transom, remove the bolts and probe around inside the bolt holes with a pick to see if there is soft wood (assuming it's a plywood core transom). If it's soft, or worse, wet, it's rotten and will need replacement.
If there are any holes low on the transom (where old transducers or speedometer pitot was installed), remove those screws and do the same thing. Water likes to find the lowest point.
Remove the aluminum cap across the top of the transom too. Leaking from gaps in sealant along the rubrail, where the through-hull tubes in the transom are, as well as all fittings are likely entry points for water into the transom.
Stringers are a bit more difficult. Are there any soft spots in the cockpit floor? Or under the gas tank in the bilge? If so, you'll likely need to cut out the soft areas (and patch them later anyway) which will allow room to tap around on stringers or drill into them to see if they are rotted.

[90bumblebee]

Greetings.
Castingcall gives sound advice.
I’ve looked at the photos of the boat, de ja vu! The faded/differing layers of gel coat and or whatever somebody sprayed is a real shame. Also looks like someone has stripped the boat prior to selling it.

Before ordering goodies for this project I think you should really sit down and research all of the available resources online about full boat restorations. You have to be ready to endure arduous labor/and or write a few checks. Because, just being honest here, you’re in for some serious work!

First you must assess the integrity of the floor, transom, stringers, saturated flotation?

Unfortunately these old bees aren’t worth a whole lot so the resale value will be kinda dismall. This was acceptable for me because we have sentimental value in the boat and my father and I plan to keep the rig indefinitely.

To address some of your questions.
-Phoenix/bumble bee aren’t so interchangeable. It’s been many years since bumble bee was in business and things like brochures/manuals are as far as I know non-existant.
-To have a nice gel coat flake job done expect to pay 3,000$ and up.
*Some people choose to use urethane/automotive paints on boats, this is a much cheaper route but it’s not gel coat.
-If you look around your local classifieds I’m sure there will be many used outboards available. Expect to pay 3,000$ and up for a decent used outboard. Anything below this price point and you’ll be in the range you described, working on an outboard too.

IF you have a solid hull there. Aka if it passes all of the structural integrity inspections then you’ve scored! Count your lucky chickens and start rigging that thing with new hardware.

Of course at that point you will have to do what I’ve done. Read and learn how all the systems function in detail separately!

Looking forward to what you find out, I’m hoping you got a good one

[boito]

Greetings.
Castingcall gives sound advice.
I’ve looked at the photos of the boat, de ja vu! The faded/differing layers of gel coat and or whatever somebody sprayed is a real shame. Also looks like someone has stripped the boat prior to selling it.

Yeah, it's definitely stripped clean. So, you think someone sprayed some sort of clear coat over top of the gel coat? The clear stuff that's chipping off isn't original to the boat?

Before ordering goodies for this project I think you should really sit down and research all of the available resources online about full boat restorations. You have to be ready to endure arduous labor/and or write a few checks. Because, just being honest here, you’re in for some serious work!

I'm definitely down for the labor, but I don't want to spend TOO much. I can find some decent boats on Craigslist for $4k-$5k, but I do enjoy the process of fixing things up.

First you must assess the integrity of the floor, transom, stringers, saturated flotation?

I really have no idea how to test all of those things without cutting into the fiberglass. I haven't found a way in that doesn't do damage. I have access to a fiberglass repair guy, so I'm not too worried about mending my damage, but I'd like to keep it as minimal as possible if it's not necessary.

Unfortunately these old bees aren’t worth a whole lot so the resale value will be kinda dismall. This was acceptable for me because we have sentimental value in the boat and my father and I plan to keep the rig indefinitely.

I'm ok with not having much in resale value IF I can get the boat restored into something nice. No need to get rid of it if it runs well and looks nice.

To address some of your questions.
-Phoenix/bumble bee aren’t so interchangeable. It’s been many years since bumble bee was in business and things like brochures/manuals are as far as I know non-existant.

Yeah, I left a message for the Phoenix folks but haven't heard back. I'm not holding out much hope on getting a manual.

-To have a nice gel coat flake job done expect to pay 3,000$ and up.
*Some people choose to use urethane/automotive paints on boats, this is a much cheaper route but it’s not gel coat.

I'm probably a little bolder (naive?) than I should be, but I'm going try to do it myself. Yikes!

-If you look around your local classifieds I’m sure there will be many used outboards available. Expect to pay 3,000$ and up for a decent used outboard. Anything below this price point and you’ll be in the range you described, working on an outboard too.

The outboard is really the only thing I'm expecting to spend real money on. I'm hoping I can do the rest of the restoration with a lot of hours and elbow grease. Of course, I can already see how it could nickel and dime me to death.

IF you have a solid hull there. Aka if it passes all of the structural integrity inspections then you’ve scored! Count your lucky chickens and start rigging that thing with new hardware.

Here's to hoping I get to count some chickens...

[boito]

So, the fun begins! I cut a hole in the floor today and, not surprisingly, the boards are worthless and the foam is saturated. Time to pop the cap off of this thing and start working on the guts.




I started taking off the bump rail (is that what it's called?). The plastic cracked to pieces, but the aluminum is still good. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement?



I also bought a cover so the mess in the driveway doesn't piss off the neighbors (and my wife).



I drilled out all of the rivets that held the bump rail on but ran out of time to drill out all of the rivets that hold the top fiberglass on. I'm assuming there is some sort of glue or seal that holds it on, also. But, I'll find that out when I get back to it tomorrow.

[boito]

I started ripping some foam out of the bottom of my Bumble Bee today. It's completely saturated! I pulled out one small section of foam, filled up a trash bag and weighed it at 15 pounds. I figure there will be about 40 bags of foam that I remove. Sooooo... that's 600 POUNDS of saturated foam! What a mess.



I added a some more videos and photos to my Google Photos album. Check it out here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pVG2eve3cWBnxr1n2

[90bumblebee]

Use a jab (drywall) saw to cut large square sections of foam out at a time as opposed to nibbling away it.

[boito]

Use a jab (drywall) saw to cut large square sections of foam out at a time as opposed to nibbling away it.

Yeah, I'm using a sawzall to slice away at it and its coming out in big chunks.

If I could only figure out how to get the cap off. It feels like it's glued all over the place. I'm planning on rigging up some sort of scaffolding above the boat and hooking up a winch to lift the cap as much as possible, and hopefully see where it's stuck. I really hope I don't crack it. Yikes!

[90bumblebee]

Have you built a cradle? Have you cut all the boxes?

I think you may be jumping in a bit too quick! You should have an extensive knowledge of all things fiberglass before you remove that cap dude it’ll warp on you. But if you want to remove the cap yourself you must first build a cradle around the hull then cut the splash well, all the boxes where they meet the hull, the bow support, I’m sure there’s a few more spots which I cannot recall. Then you can lift the cap and get to the bulkhead and everything below the decks .

[boito]

So, there's no way to lift the cap without cutting a bunch of fiberglass, huh? I was thinking I'd be able to do it by just drilling out all of the rivets around the cap where it connects to the hull. But, it sounds like it's connected in a lot more places than that.

[Faust]

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread here, but I have a 1994 bumble bee that I want to restore. I saw the photos and it looks like you made a lot of progress. Do you have any updates after you took the cap off and got rid of the foam? I would be very interested.

[HAPPY DAD]

Yea what was the final verdict on this?

[rojoguio]

So the fun has begun, looks like you have some quality help here....................Rome was not built in a day..........take your time on the prep.