...and how do you know when a problem is starting?
...and how do you know when a problem is starting?
Fiberglass and birch ply wood, when you notice a brown ooze coming out of one of the bolt holes. How long has it been since you sealed all bolts thru transom like the engine bolts and have you taken the top cap aluminum strip off to be sure it's sealed under there.
Bruce Phillips
1995 190 DC champion ......1995 200 xri merc
Just tap it with a screwdriver handle. Dry is a nice sounding tap, problem will sound like a thud.
Doesn't mean you're dead, but it will require immediate attention. The genius behind that transom is that the vast majority of the time it can be dried out and work good as new.
Pat Goff
Two degrees from center
of nowhere.
Smithwick TX.
My new to me boat is wet on one side. Opened up splaswell drain tubes and trailer hooks and just going to leave open for next month. Then yank motor and reseal top cap and motor
Bruce Phillips
1995 190 DC champion ......1995 200 xri merc
This has been discussed many times, once more won't hurt.
The proper way to dry out your transom:
TWO Home Depot infrared heat lamps.
Position them about 20" from the center of the transom.
Turn them on and leave them on undisturbed for two weeks.
You must vaporize the water so it can escape, when you're done reseal everything and you'll be good as new. Many times wet sloppy transoms have been recovered, it's not magic, it's just the ability of the materials to restore themselves.
Pat Goff
Two degrees from center
of nowhere.
Smithwick TX.
It will be better if you go ahead and pull the motor/jackplate now and let those holes help the drying process.
I’m planning on leaving motor off as well. Don’t think it went that far. Been running big ass fan the the holes to act as a evaporate cooler wicking away the water. Got a lake inspection Monday. They need the motor on for that. After that I have a 35 day wait so gonna leave open for a month.
Do the heat lamps, Jesse!!!!! Good chance you will regret it if you don't. Pat Goff knows exactly what is needed. Listen to him!!!!
How close do you set the lamps to the transom?
When you take everything off to dry it out and reseal, don't forget the transition pieces between the rub rail and transom cap. That is where my leak was that wet the top part on one side of the transom.
What is directly underneath the transom cap? Is there wood directly underneath where the screws in the cap go in?
The reason I'm asking is because I pulled a couple of the top cap screws out and stuck a coat hanger wire down in the hole and it seems like there's a void underneath. One of the outside holes I was able to stick the wire down a foot or so.
Aaaaanddd a previous owner screwed a transducer to the bottom of the transom on the right sight and I took the screws out to reseal them and brown goo kept dribbling out
be cautiously optimistic in my opinion. If the wood is soft enough or deteriorated enough to allow a coat hanger to penetrate in a foot, there certainly is a chance that it's in worse shape than meets the eye.
If you are curious, have any interest in knowing more about it, the same type of material used for transoms back then is still made to this day. Back then, the idea was a light weight, structurally strong material. As composites were developed, the change was made to get away from wood that can rot. Some of the composites can still lose integrity if they get and stay wet, but no where near as bad a problem as using wood, once it gets to a certain point.
Just a FYI, the decks, not where the hatches are, also have baltek core in them with fiberglass and gelcoat on top. The floor where you sit is I think plywood, could be baltek there as well, can't remember what came out when we tore it all out of mine as a part of a larger restoration job.
Good luck.
http://www.airexbaltekbanova.com/baltek-balsa.html
Kevin | 2000 Champion 191 | 2000 Yamaha OX66 200hp
Mine was barely leaking around drivers side top engine bolt hole. Only wet an inch from hole. Pulled engine,top cap trim and tie down hardware. Nothing else was wet but went ahead and dried for 2weeks. I used two heat lamps, and a very small forced air heater in the bilge area on low. I did not like their finishing job under cap trim. I ground it smooth and mixed some fiberglass resin. Smoothed out the area and when dry I took 3M-4200 and run a bead around each screw hole and edges of trim pieces. Put back together and let dry. Reinstalled engine jack plate. That was 3 years ago and when I finally decided to purchase a hydraulic plate I will check it and reseal.