Getting lower unit pressure tested

[Bob G.]

I would generally agree, but this is a 10yro OB. Why spend the money for the R&R plus gear oil every time a seal goes out.

I've only had one lower unit seal replaced on my 2006 Merc. When I asked the shop if they let an ounce or two of fluid out when they filled it, they said it wasn't necessary. I took the lower unit home, drained it and filled to the proper level per the info found on this forum. I wonder if some shops fill to the top hole causing overpressure leading to a seal leaking.

[Savage]

I've only had one lower unit seal replaced on my 2006 Merc. When I asked the shop if they let an ounce or two of fluid out when they filled it, they said it wasn't necessary. I took the lower unit home, drained it and filled to the proper level per the info found on this forum. I wonder if some shops fill to the top hole causing overpressure leading to a seal leaking.

It happens for sure.......

[fishnfireman]

Got a hold of another area shop, got quoted a LOT lower. They said about $380+parts. And that is if all the seals need to be replaced. I can live with that.

Sounds more like it..
I think I could change the impeller, shift shaft seal kit and drive shaft seal kit in about one hour on my 3.0 ltr sports master.

[Savage]

I would generally agree, but this is a 10yro OB. Why spend the money for the R&R plus gear oil every time a seal goes out.

Well the OP doesn't seem to be a DIYer on his motor.

Sorta like taking your truck in for valve cover leak........but changing, the oil pan, intake manifold, timing cover, distributor, fuel pump gaskets, and rear main, and timing cover seals, just because the motor is old. The bill would be considerably higher changing all those others seals and gaskets that are not leaking.

My friend has my old 1999 225 HP Optimax, that still has ALL the original LU seals, except for the driveshaft carrier that I upgraded to a bolt in style.

[leo13]

Obviously he is not a DIY'er that is why he is seeking service from a repair shop/dealer and the truck analogy is a bad one.

So its better for him to have one seal replaced at a time. Pay for the seal replacement, R&R, pressure test and gear oil each time there is a leak. Again this is a 10yro unit. Its not a pay now or pay later since damage can occur by not catching a leak early. Some people change their LU lube twice a season just make sure they don't go too long with a leaking seal and water in their LU.

Well the OP doesn't seem to be a DIYer on his motor.

Sorta like taking your truck in for valve cover leak........but changing, the oil pan, intake manifold, timing cover, distributor, fuel pump gaskets, and rear main, and timing cover seals, just because the motor is old. The bill would be considerably higher changing all those others seals and gaskets that are not leaking.

My friend has my old 1999 225 HP Optimax, that still has ALL the original LU seals, except for the driveshaft carrier that I upgraded to a bolt in style.

[EuropeanAM]

I can have a lower unit off in 15 minutes, and answer the phone too.

They must be charging book prices. Find another mechanic.

I can assure you those aren't "book" prices. Flat-Rate times on the gearcase are certainly NOT favoring the Technician.

As a general rule... 2.6 hrs to reseal (plus diagnostic time). Add a seal kit, impeller, and some lube (provided we are simply talking about a reseal).