Stainless Fasteners on Aluminum Boat

[USMC2112]

I have two panels on the rear corners of the boat that are attached with screws. I was doing my early season checkup and found one on the starboard side was stripped. The screw has to remain removable to access the area where cables/wiring is ran. I found threaded inserts which resemble rivets with internal threads and plan on using those. Since stainless will be in contact with the aluminum in some manner would you use the aluminum inserts with stainless screws or stainless inserts with stainless screws. I am leaning towards stainless as that would be less likely to strip but just wanted any other opinions or experiences. Thank you.

[rocket man]

If not in salt water I wouldn't worry about it. Although stain to stain tends to gull use some antisieze.

[USMC2112]

If not in salt water I wouldn't worry about it. Although stain to stain tends to gull use some antisieze.

Thank you.

[Panama]

I have several places that stainless is in contact with aluminum...no problems. I have a transducer that I am pretty sure has stainless screws and has been there for years.

[USMC2112]

I have several places that stainless is in contact with aluminum...no problems. I have a transducer that I am pretty sure has stainless screws and has been there for years.

Thank you.

[cmb]

Bought my boat new in 2000. Soon after, I replaced 99% of all fasteners with Stainless. Never a problem removing the decks after the change-out. Boat stays inside and has only been used in Fresh waster though.

[USMC2112]

Bought my boat new in 2000. Soon after, I replaced 99% of all fasteners with Stainless. Never a problem removing the decks after the change-out. Boat stays inside and has only been used in Fresh waster though.

Thank you.

[bassbama]

If it's a Phillips head change out to a hex head a lot easier to remove and install with a nutdriver or battery drill. Lowes has most sizes in SS

[fishon396]

I use that combo a lot on the boat and use anti seize for easy removal. The screws can get hard to remove some times especially if high is evolved like spark plugs in aluminum heads.

[TDobb]

What you are talking about sounds like Riv-Nuts. We use them all the time in blind panel fastener installations. The aluminum ones will be fine with stainless screws. Stainless Riv-Nuts will take a LOT more torque to smash and engage than the aluminum ones. Just be careful not to overtighten them and you shouldn't have to worry about stripping them out. Whatever you do though, do not use carbon steel fasteners on your boat, you will have corrosion issues if you do.

[Windy City]

Rivet nut or crush nut. They are available in different sizes or materials. Mixing materials in salt water is much more important than fresh water.

Here are the front and back photos of a 5/16" aluminum one set in bright aluminum checker plate. I use these in aluminum, with stainless fasteners. Also, all stainless fasteners always get a little red or blue thread locker.

[USMC2112]

Thanks for all of the responses.

[slonezp]

Rivet nut or crush nut. They are available in different sizes or materials. Mixing materials in salt water is much more important than fresh water.

Here are the front and back photos of a 5/16" aluminum one set in bright aluminum checker plate. I use these in aluminum, with stainless fasteners. Also, all stainless fasteners always get a little red or blue thread locker.

AKA threadserts or nutserts

[FES313]

Why not just step up to the next bigger screw? I have done this on tin and glass and works really well.

[USMC2112]

Why not just step up to the next bigger screw? I have done this on tin and glass and works really well.

Just wanting to get to a stopping point. Sooner or later there won't be a bigger screw. This way if it strips again, remove insert (drill or grind) and replace.

Thanks for all of the responses.

[rocket man]

Your doing it the right way. I did the same thing on my tracker front deck. These will not strip if you start the screw straight. Rivit nut is the way to go.