Does your trolling motor thrust cause the aluminum base it’s mounted on to flex? I have a Motor Guide digital tour 70 lb thrust and every time I press the button I see the side to side flex. It even makes a noise most of the time. It can’t help fishing with the noise. But if for nothing else it’s in my head now so I believe it’s affecting my fishing. Any similar problems guys?
2013 Pantera 4
2012 Opti 200 Pro XS
25 Tempest
I have a 70#MK. I havent ever noticed it flexing.
Make sure your bolts are tight and have some support underneath.
2022 Xpress H17 - Yamaha SHO 90
When you say the aluminum base flexes, are you referring to the boat itself? Or the base moving above the surface of the boat? What model of trolling motor do you have? I think I know what you are referring to but I want to be certain.
2018 Ranger RT188 SC Black/115 hp Yamaha SHO 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - north
2018 Ranger RT188 DC Black/115 hp Merc Pro XS 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - south
14' Mirrorcraft tin boat (ancient) with a 9.9 Mercury 4-stroke, no electronics; catches fish anyway
You may have to check the way the trolling motor is mounted. I have seen older trolling motors operate where the base is loose, probably just from use and abuse.
2018 Tracker 190 TX
Torqeedo 10.0
Humminbird Helix 12 G4N MDI+/SI+
Minn Kota Ultrex 80
It’s a Motor Guide Digital Tour 70 lb thrust. I have opened the plastic faceplate cover that has a few switches on it. I have reached in there to feel for any nuts attached to the above bolts. Just yesterday I tightened again from above and was able to turn each just a fraction. I’m pretty sure from memory (I’ve had it off before looking for the same problem) there are threaded inserts and no nuts on this setup. The six bolts are all 2 hands turning as hard as possible with a screwdriver. I could try a drill, but don’t want to strip the Phillips head tops. I was just wondering if it was just an aluminum boat problem or specific to my setup. I know Minn Kotas thrust comes on gradually whereas Motor Guide seems to hit at once. It’s just aggravating to here the pop and see the base slightly rock side to side with each press of the button.
2013 Pantera 4
2012 Opti 200 Pro XS
25 Tempest
It is unclear to me if your problem relates to the motor flexing on the hull or if it comes from the TM mechanism, so I am not sure if this applies.
My 2014 RT188 hull came from the factory with a 65# MG mounted directly to the aluminum bow. It had a vibration noise that increased with the speed of the motor and was very distracting. After trying tightening everything possible, I only solved the problem by mounting a piece of plywood under the deck and running the mounting bolts through it. It took this additional support to stop and or dampen the vibration.
This pics shows rubber isolators but in the final solution, I eliminated those and used fender washers and lock nuts.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
Years ago I had a MG it had those rubber type mounts like that and that TM rocked all over the place!! I removed them and it helped alot but the mount itself had alot of flex in it.Originally Posted by Bill Reynolds
That was the only MG tm I ever had.
I have never had any of my MK tm's do that
2022 Xpress H17 - Yamaha SHO 90
I agree. I initially used the rubber isolators in the plywood because I thought it would help dampen the vibration. It helped but as you said, the motor was all over the place. Bolting the motor through the plywood using fender washers solved the problem. I don't want to start a MG/MK debate but I will share this experience.
Ranger replaced the 2014 hull with a 2016 and moved all my equipment over to the new hull, but did not move the plywood I had mounted under the bow. However, I had them mount an 80# MK MAXXUM instead of the MG. There was no noise or vibration and it continues to be quiet 2 years later.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I wasnt trying to start a motor war.
The MG I had was a very stout and good tm
Every boat Ive bought since that one has had MK's on it all of them were/are good too.
I do prefer the MK's but I would use either brand until it was worn out
2022 Xpress H17 - Yamaha SHO 90
I use the rubber isolators since the larger holes were factory done for them with the original motor that I never used, BUT I cut off the threaded insert and use a fender washer and nylock nut under the deck.
Wayne Purdum
Charlottesville, Va.
Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL
I've used a similar Motorguide since 2004 (first on a Triton V176Mag) and I've cut a thin piece of wood to fill the gap between the bottom of the aluminum frame and the deck of the boat so that when the frame wants to rock back there is no place for it to go. And with some silicone adhesive it will stay there.
2018 Ranger RT188 SC Black/115 hp Yamaha SHO 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - north
2018 Ranger RT188 DC Black/115 hp Merc Pro XS 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - south
14' Mirrorcraft tin boat (ancient) with a 9.9 Mercury 4-stroke, no electronics; catches fish anyway
I had to do the same thing on a 1985 Fisher Marine Marsh Hawk that I had. The MG TM was mounted with those rubber isolator deals right on an aluminum stand on the left side of the bow. it not only creaked and groaned, but eventually the aluminum stand developed cracks around the bolt holes. I had the cracks welded and then mounted a piece of plywood underneath the trolling motor stand. That solved the problem.
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
I recently replaced the shoulder bolts at the pivot point where the base and main arm connect. While doing it I noticed something. The base has 12 (6 rows) pre drilled holes. But for some reason the factory installed the bolts (from front of boat going back) on the first, third, and fifth rows. The very back is what seems to rock so I think I may drill and boat and secure it to that sixth row.
2013 Pantera 4
2012 Opti 200 Pro XS
25 Tempest
The rubber isolators do more harm than good! You want a rock solid mount, not one that flexes.
My 80lb Motorguide doesn't flex my tin at all. Don't remember if I used the rubber isolators or not but I know it sure doesn't wiggle any!
2023 Xpress H18 with 115 SHO and Powertech NRS4 21p
8" Bob's Action Jack
Garmin Echomap 12, 10, 9, and LVS34 networked with Netgear Switch
Ultrex
Trick Steps and Ramp N Clamp
Pulled by a 2016 single cab HEMI Ram
Treat others like you want to be treated when on the water EVEN WHEN IN A TOURNAMENT! No fish is worth having a confrontation because you cut someone off or came in on top of someone.
You need to carpet and then sandwich a board in there. I used a poplar board. Its nice and hard plus resistant to rot
The only way I see to get in there is through the small (4x6 inch maybe?) trolling motor plug dash. I drilled another set of holes so the very back end has support. But when I tried it yesterday it was only minimally better.I wonder if the inserts the factory installed (pictured) is part of the problem? They are raised off the boats surface a little. So a flat surface is basically impossible to obtain.
2013 Pantera 4
2012 Opti 200 Pro XS
25 Tempest
Do you know if your trolling motors are simply bolt and nut or do you have the threaded inserts like I do?
2013 Pantera 4
2012 Opti 200 Pro XS
25 Tempest
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