Might want to rethink the Pri G, then maybe not.Originally Posted by Backlash Ar
http://fueltestkit.com/is_gas_additi..._e10_list.html
Might want to rethink the Pri G, then maybe not.
http://fueltestkit.com/is_gas_additi..._e10_list.html
That is just the "damn I can do all this" page. Request directly from them the MSDS and a copy of the warranty. They have to provide it by law but they don't have to post it.
That is old data from 2008-2011 which is in error. Needs to be pulled down.
well what the heck is in yamalube???? I do use seafoam on occasion for carbon buidup but other than that i just use yamalube
Yamalube is an oil not an additive. TC-W3 is the base oil certification NMMA utilizes for marine.
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/tc-w3
All OEM 2 stroke engine oils meet this minimum standard but each OEM tailors the additives for there engine demands. There is no scientific way to determine what type/amount of these additives are included due to proprietary exclusion from the MSDS.
4 strokes don't need quite the decarb that 2 strokes because a 4 stroke piston rings are not pinned in one spot. I'd say run full size fittings and fuel lines, and a fuel/water filter separator which you could check occasionally but with ethanol you'll probably never see any water in it. Ethanol is basically the old "Dry gas". I think maybe I'd add some Seaf........naah, I say just run pump 10% gas, and non-ethanol if you can find it.
Mercury's fuel/water separator/filter is located on the engine and no other filter/separators are to be used. All late model Mercury engines are designed to run E10.
I think he's running a Suzyuki.
Evinrude BRP/OMC 2+4 Fuel Conditioner contains 95% isopropyl alcohol. Looks like I need to do some more research if I continue to use this in my ETEC 150HO.
http://www.marineengineparts.com/med...NGFR-PL-12.pdf
Yamaha Ring Free Plus MSDS
2007 Skeeter 21i 300HDPI
BRP changed the formula a couple of years ago, no isopropyl, I noticed it didn't have the alcohol smell .
Yes Fishnkamp I have a 4 stroke . DF250SS Suzuki. Wow lots of opinions all over the spectrum.
Sorry said yamalube...meant ring free
90% oil
1 oz Ring Free to every 10 gallons. Damn that's some powerful oil.....
Last edited by mikesxpress; 02-19-2018 at 05:19 PM.
Mike, have you tested gas to see if kerosene effects it and in which ways? Do you work in the gas industry?
He is what I do know. I had a 1984 Yamaha 90 HP engine. Four or five years ago I fried the #2 cylinder due to letting the engine sit for two years and not changing the water pump. The engine had two gallons of Yamalube oil run initially and the only oil after that was Quicksilver Premium Plus. At no time was any fuel additive used. I don't know when E10 gas became available, but at no time did I ever expressly buy no-alcohol fuel. I figure E10 was probably run in it for twenty years (again a guess). When I tore the engine down the two pistons that were good had zero carbon in the ring lands and very little carbon on the piston crowns. The rest of the motor innards looked brand new. I reused all the bearings including wristpin bearings. When I tore the carbs down to rebuild them they were clean as a whistle. Sold the boat to a buddy a year ago and the boat is stored on my property. The engine runs like a new one today.
Adding PRI-G gasoline stabilizer
CAS# 64742-47-8
Deodorized kerosene
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1379.html
Here is a $10.00 rebate for you Sta-Bil guys:
Mike, no offense here but your downing all these additives like they are using kerosene as the actual additive. The kerosene is the carrier of the chemicals and inhibits the spread of those chemicals with the fuel. Without the kerosene the chemicals won't mix right with the fuel. I'm not saying one way or the other if your wrong or right, I haven't seen any side by side test. I will also tell you that in the gas industry, where there are storage tanks that hold thousands and thousands of gallons, there are chemicals that can ruin a whole tank of product with a mixture of less than 1%. Of course that's just of hear say from the operators of those tanks and write ups from past accidents where product had to be rerun to clean it up. Small amounts of certain chemicals changes the make up of the fuel, hence the reason a refinery can make different products with small temp changes or adding or subtracting light ends from product. Maybe it's all smoke and mirrors, maybe they work.
Keith no offense taken. The information about the actual content of these additives is being provided as FYI and I standby my statement that one needs to make there own decision as to there use. I'm a mechanical engineer capable of reading the MSDS which I do on most items.
You are correct that the carrier (kerosene/oils) is the method to dispurse the very small % (on average <1% by weight) of "other" components stated on the MSDS. Kerosene has an octane rating of 25. Will the addition of that to your fuel drop your overall octane rating? In the amounts the additive manufacturers recommend probably not. If you over dose, maybe.
Do they work? In my personal opinion no. Others will have a different view and that's fine too.
With the advent of E10 I feel it has more than enough cleaning attributes. If you use your fuel inside of 12 months and keep the tanks topped off you will have no moisture absorption issues. I proved this to myself over the years by following the top off program and no additives. It works for me. Others may find it doesn't work for them.
Last edited by mikesxpress; 02-20-2018 at 07:47 AM.
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