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  1. #1
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    Need Help with Onboard Charger

    This might be a really dumb question but I’m that kinda guy so I’ll ask it anyway. Is there a way to test an onboard charger is actually charging and doing it’s job correctly? I’m trying to figure out if the batteries are staying charged or if I’m slowly losing power though the day. I recently replaced my old MG Pro Series 70 with a MG X5 80 and I see no difference in performance at all. My boat is only 18.6 ft so I was assuming the 80 would have no issues handling it. For the most part it’s no problem but if any wind kicks up at all, I have to almost put the speed setting to max just to have a chance. Both trolling batteries were replaced during spring of last year at the same time.

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    Odds are high if the lights on the charger say the batteries are charged, they are. You can unplug the charger when the batteries indicate full charge, then measure the voltage the next day. What specific batteries and charger do you have?
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    #3
    Hmm. Without a charging profile I couldn't assess the performance of a charger. One would presume that upon initial start it would put out 14-15 VDC connected to a battery. After it indicates full charge I'd presume you would read 13+ volts across the terminals with an occasional reading of 14+ volts to sample the internal resistance of the battery which would indicate state of charge.
    You also don't share the size of your batteries, and trolling motor, and wind/current conditions, and whether you have a digital or straight trolling motor, the size of the motor and boat.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Hmm. Without a charging profile I couldn't assess the performance of a charger. One would presume that upon initial start it would put out 14-15 VDC connected to a battery. After it indicates full charge I'd presume you would read 13+ volts across the terminals with an occasional reading of 14+ volts to sample the internal resistance of the battery which would indicate state of charge.
    You also don't share the size of your batteries, and trolling motor, and wind/current conditions, and whether you have a digital or straight trolling motor, the size of the motor and boat.
    the boat is a 2008 Procraft 186 Pro
    the trolling motor is a Motorguide x5 80
    the batteries are Everstart Deep Cycle group 27DC 750mca
    i fish KY & Barkley Lakes.......wind is always present on both on the main lake

  5. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #5
    Your batteries are 160 minute RC, which is on the small side of moderate. You could just need bigger batteries, but you should check it out to make sure everything is working. You'll want to check the batteries like I described above, then look and see what you have at the front connector. A lose, corroded or worn connector can cause you to lose a lot of power. You also want to verify that you have 25.3V or more at the front connector on the two wires going to the TM.

    The difference from a 70 to 80 lb motor isn't overwhelming by any stretch.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Your batteries are 160 minute RC, which is on the small side of moderate. You could just need bigger batteries, but you should check it out to make sure everything is working. You'll want to check the batteries like I described above, then look and see what you have at the front connector. A lose, corroded or worn connector can cause you to lose a lot of power. You also want to verify that you have 25.3V or more at the front connector on the two wires going to the TM.

    The difference from a 70 to 80 lb motor isn't overwhelming by any stretch.
    what do mean by “small side of moderate”? Sorry for my ignorance just trying to figure this thing out. My dad has a motorguide x3 70 on his 20ft Astro and it pulls it with ease....even in a stiff wind. I’m just confused why my 80 with less of a boat doesn’t perform the way it should be. What would you consider a better battery without breaking the bank?

  7. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by KJW83 View Post
    what do mean by “small side of moderate”? Sorry for my ignorance just trying to figure this thing out. My dad has a motorguide x3 70 on his 20ft Astro and it pulls it with ease....even in a stiff wind. I’m just confused why my 80 with less of a boat doesn’t perform the way it should be. What would you consider a better battery without breaking the bank?
    Commonly available marine deep-cycle batteries range from about 135 minute RC to 225 minute RC. 135 is a group 24. Group 27s are normally 160 to 180 minute. Group 29 and 31 are normally 205 to 225 minute thought there is one manufacturer that makes a very small capacity 31. RC or reserve capacity is a good number to use to compare how batteries would be expected to perform in TM use.

    But battery size doesn't affect performance, just how long they'll last. I'm suspecting you have a battery or wiring issue keeping your motor from performing like it should and new batteries won't fix that. Make the voltage readings I recommended above and then go from what you learn there.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #8
    Catfan brought something up that should not go un noticed!
    "You also want to verify that you have 25.3V or more at the front connector on the two wires going to the TM."

    Verify what he said.

    Also some boats and probably yours also. Have a three terminal plug at the bow. Providing Negative, 12volts and 24volts in the same plug. Make sure your trolling motor plug is wired to the 24volt and ground terminals of the plug, 12volt will not be used.

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    #9
    Do the voltage test with the motor on continuous. Your motor is a digital motor and should get maximum use and power from your batteries. It is important that you not run the batteries down to the point that they become very sluggish as it damages them. It is also possible that any battery, even a new one can occasionally fail. I believe Everstart is a Wal-mart brand wet cell battery which can need water from time to time, although mine never have. If you have removable cell covers look in each cell with a flashlight and look for the reflection of the electrolyte. If you see (water) it's O.K. after charging.

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    #10
    As said above, you need to check the voltage at the plug, or as close as possible with the trolling motor set to constant. Static voltage will read battery voltage, but when you put a load on it, then bad connections, wiring, or breaker will cause the voltage to fall/drop.
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    #11
    If you’re running the 2 blade prop that came with the motor... there’s your problem. Put the 3 blade ninja on it and you’ll be good to go.

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    #12
    After some troubleshooting I realized I had my negative cable from the trolling motor on the wrong battery and my jumper cable was running from positive to positive on the 2 batteries. So I’m assuming I had it ran parallel correct? Which means I only had a 12 volt system? I put a meter on the batteries and its reading 26.5 volts. Looks like I have a 4 prong connector up front. I took a pic but can’t figure out how to get it to show up on here. I put the trolling motor on constant and pulled the plug out just enough to get the meter prongs on it to test it. I’m only getting 12.4 volts at the connector. so the problem has to be the connector right? What connector do I need to get the full 24 volts to the trolling motor?
    Last edited by KJW83; 02-17-2018 at 05:11 PM.

  13. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by KJW83 View Post
    After some troubleshooting I realized I had my negative cable from the trolling motor on the wrong battery and my jumper cable was running from positive to positive on the 2 batteries. So I’m assuming I had it ran parallel correct? Which means I only had a 12 volt system? I put a meter on the batteries and its reading 26.5 volts. Looks like I have a 4 prong connector up front. I took a pic but can’t figure out how to get it to show up on here. I put the trolling motor on constant and pulled the plug out just enough to get the meter prongs on it to test it. I’m only getting 12.4 volts at the connector. so the problem has to be the connector right? What connector do I need to get the full 24 volts to the trolling motor?
    Chances are you are either using the wrong pins on the connector or have the cables at the wrong spot on the batteries.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #14
    Goggle 24 volt trolling motor system
    Make sure your jumpers on batteries are correct.

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    #15
    Was your old tm 12/24?

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishdeep View Post
    Was your old tm 12/24?
    It was a 24 volt......I also noticed that there’s a 50 amp breaker on the positive side wire from the trolling motor. And then there is another one also on the jumper wire. Does this affect anything? Is this th correct setup? Had the boat about 4 years now and it’s always been that way since I’ve owned it. Never had any issues with it so I left it alone.

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    #17
    I don't believe that would affect anything
    Also you might want to pull the prop on the trolling motor and make sure you don't have a wad of fishing line around the shaft.This would cause the motor extra current draw and hamper performance

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Chances are you are either using the wrong pins on the connector or have the cables at the wrong spot on the batteries.
    Thanks for the help. I had the same thought but it’s reassuring to hear it from someone else who knows what they’re talking about.

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    #19
    You might have a 4 wire 24 volt system, and need a 4 pin Marinco plug that has a jumper built in to combine the voltages to 24 volts. Check out a 4 wire system schematic.

    If you have 2 independent 12 volt supplies at the boat, you need the plug with a jumper, and everything will be fine. If that jumper gets loose, you'll lose the full voltage and maybe lose everything.

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    #20
    Thanks for all the help. Turns out I had the jumper wire connected to the wrong posts on the batteries. Swapped it around and now I’m getting 26.5 volts at the connector.