LED Strip Light Power Source

[Kwasham]

Hi All,

I bought some LED Strips from Amazon and am planning to install them around the front and back deck of my Bass Boat. Each strip is 16.5ft long and came with a power supply with a wall plug to male barrell plug that plugs into the female part of the power supply box. There is a 4 pin plug from the power supply box to the LED strip. I need to decide how I am going to power these lights. I have considered buying a cigarette lighter insert that has a barrell (male) plug that I could just plug into the power supply box. Ideally I want to wire the lights either to my trolling batteries or to my courtesy light switch in the dash. I am trying to find a cord that has a barrell plug on one end to plug into the lights power box and a red and black cord on the other end to plug into the back of my courtesy light switch in the dash. Can anyone lead me in the right direction on this?

[Kwasham]

Well, as usual. After I ask for advice I end up finding the part that I need. I found a barrell plug to alligator clip connector cable AND a barrell plug to red and black wire. Would I be better off connecting the lights straight to my batteries or to the courtesy light switch on the dash? They are remote operated.

[Beallright]

I would say that depends on the current lights you have and the amp draw of those lights and and the switches max draw. Also I have seen some constant current switch don't do well with dimmers. If I was doing it and using a dimmer, I would not go direct to battery but I would go to a fuse block wired to a fuse protecting circuit close to the switch install. If I did not have a fuse block I would install that and then wire everything from there making sure I am using correct wire size supplying the block.

[Kwasham]

I would say that depends on the current lights you have and the amp draw of those lights and and the switches max draw. Also I have seen some constant current switch don't do well with dimmers. If I was doing it and using a dimmer, I would not go direct to battery but I would go to a fuse block wired to a fuse protecting circuit close to the switch install. If I did not have a fuse block I would install that and then wire everything from there making sure I am using correct wire size supplying the block.

Thanks for the reply. I am going to wire it to the battery instead of the interior light switch on the console. Doing research on the fuses now. The LEDs have a remote that I can use so there is no need for a on/off switch at the console.

[CastingCall]

Did you test the alligator clip power cord that you found? From what you described, that cord would be replacing the 120v wall plug cord, yes? Does the 120v cord have a transformer plug, or just a plain power cord? If just a plain power cord, then it would seem the "power box" contains a transformer (120vac input to 12vdc output) - in which case, going from a 12vdc battery to the power box wouldn't work.

Is the power box also the receiver for the remote control? Maybe post a link to the Amazon lights you have for more info. Not clear if you need to ditch the whole power box or not.

If you don't plan on hooking up to any existing switch on the dash, and you hook direct to battery, then install a waterproof in-line blade fuse holder at the battery on the + line.
Personally, I'd hook up to a switch regardless of remote control. Remotes can be quirky - being able to cut power manually when not in use prevents accidental power draw if the remote/receiver acts up.

[Kwasham]

Did you test the alligator clip power cord that you found? From what you described, that cord would be replacing the 120v wall plug cord, yes? Does the 120v cord have a transformer plug, or just a plain power cord? If just a plain power cord, then it would seem the "power box" contains a transformer (120vac input to 12vdc output) - in which case, going from a 12vdc battery to the power box wouldn't work.

Is the power box also the receiver for the remote control? Maybe post a link to the Amazon lights you have for more info. Not clear if you need to ditch the whole power box or not.

If you don't plan on hooking up to any existing switch on the dash, and you hook direct to battery, then install a waterproof in-line blade fuse holder at the battery on the + line.
Personally, I'd hook up to a switch regardless of remote control. Remotes can be quirky - being able to cut power manually when not in use prevents accidental power draw if the remote/receiver acts up.

Thanks for your response. I would prefer the battery route since I will actually be using two strips (one on each gunnel) that will both be powered separately by the trolling motor batteries. I want to start the strips on either side of the back deck and run the wires under the side panels and continue the strips on the front deck so it would be more seamless to start them off at the stern of the boat.
Here is a link to the lights that I got (1 strip for each side), the fuses, and the red/black wire to barrel plug. I also got some 4 pin connectors so that I can cut the strip into two pieces (back deck/front deck) and connect them with a connecting wire.

Link to the fuses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to the barrel plug to red/black wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to the lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My knowledge of wiring is pretty elementary so let me know if anything that I described will cause issues.

Thanks for your advice here.

[Kwasham]

I will be connecting the male barrel plug into the female plug on the white box. The white box has a 4 pin connector that connects into the LED strips.

[CastingCall]

I will be connecting the male barrel plug into the female plug on the white box. The white box has a 4 pin connector that connects into the LED strips.

Yep, that should work after seeing the pic. The white box must be the receiver/controller for the remote.
Just check the polarity on your direct-wire power plug. The original power pack should have a picture that shows whether the internal portion of the output plug is + or -. Wire up your new plug accordingly.
Be sure to mount the controller in a dry location, since they state it is not waterproof. I'd also recommend adding some silicone or liquid electrical tape to the 4-pin plug/LED connection, and a chunk of shrink tubing so the connections remain intact, and the contacts don't corrode.

[Kwasham]

Good to know, thanks for your reply. Will seal all connections and make sure the controller box is mounted in a dry area. I will post of the results within the next couple of weeks.

[jimg67]

I went the same route for my boat then found out the controller is IR. The other wire coming off the controller had to be hanging out somewhere in line of sight to the remote. Like a tv remote. When my remote failed after a week I bought a radio frequency controller and remote so I could hide it.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...nel/3050/6263/

[Kwasham]

I went the same route for my boat then found out the controller is IR. The other wire coming off the controller had to be hanging out somewhere in line of sight to the remote. Like a tv remote. When my remote failed after a week I bought a radio frequency controller and remote so I could hide it.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...nel/3050/6263/

Thanks a lot for this info. So far I have only snaked my wire and prepped for the LEDs so they are not installed yet. It looks like the controller does have the additional wire so I am afraid that mine may be in the same boat as yours. Going to test them closed off in the battery compartment to see if the remote works with the controller in there. If not I will return this set and get one without a controller and order the controller in your link. Thanks a lot for the info!

[Kwasham]

Turns out I will need to get a remote/controller that will work without a direct path. I found the ones below which are only $13 each. Going to give these a shot. Once I finish the install I will post the results. For the lights and install accessories I have right at $80 invested. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../Photos&Videos

[jimg67]

Good luck with the install. Post some pictures.

[Kwasham]

I ended up putting the install on hold after having difficulty with the LED connectors. One end on the connector is for the 4 pin wire and the other end is for the LED strip itself. I think that I am going to solder the connections instead of using a plastic connector because I have read that these are not very reliable. I did install the strips that go from the transom to the back of the bench seat and they look great. Will post some pictures when i am done.