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  1. #1
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    Where to get rod box lid shocks

    Where does everybody get these at? Locally theyre priced what seems high to me...

  2. Member secdawgs's Avatar
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    #2
    GO DAWGS

  3. Member
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    Steve Dyer
    Mt. Pleasant, NC

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    #4
    walmart.com

  5. Member Bassman Ia.'s Avatar
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    #5
    i couldnt find the size i needed local. ordered 2 off the net and it was 1/2 price then what napa wanted.

    what size do u need

  6. Banned
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    #6
    My boat has never had them. Would love to install on rod box but not sure how to measure or mount.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Mine is 12” collapsed and 20”extended.

  8. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #8
    Ebay!

  9. Member
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    #9
    Phoenix 721 - Yamaha SHO 250 - 8' Blades

  10. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #10
    Ebay has everything.
    To figure out what you need, use this online calculator (Select the Flap option).
    http://www.weforma.com/gas_spring_ca...ion/editor.php

    Measure the size of the lid you're opening (in millimeters), and how much it weighs (as a calculation of Newtons)... Use a postal scale or accurate bathroom scale in the opening and set the lid on it - or open the lid and use a fish weight scale hooked to the lid to read how much force is needed to hold it open. Use online converters from Inches to MM, and Lbs to Newtons.

    You'll need to approximate how far from the pivot to the attachment point on the lid. Playing with that value will change the gas spring force needed.
    Also using 2 gas springs will divide the force of each required in half.

    Another force calculation tool:
    http://www.gecea.com/hatchlifters/gas-springs

  11. Banned
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    #11
    Proper Sizing and Placement of Gas Springs for Teardrop Galley Hatch
    Calculating the proper gas springs to use and their proper placement on your galley hatch can be a very intimidating process. After researching this I came up with the following method and calculator to help calculate the proper gas spring length, placement and force required to properly open and support your galley hatch.
    The first thing to determine is the gas spring length. The extended length of the gas spring is what is important at this time. The ideal length of the extended gas spring should be approximately 60% of the length of your galley hatch. This can be measured from the hinge center point of your hatch to the bottom threshold of the hatch where it meets the floor. (Example: If your hatch measures 48 inches than the extended length of the gas springs should be 28.8 inches.) Due to the configuration of your trailer and hatch it may not be possible or desirable to use a gas spring this long. At this point you need to determine the longest gas spring that you will be able to use. The longest spring you can use up to the 60% rule will allow for the lowest amount of stress on your hinge and will also better support the overall length of your hatch.
    The next step is to determine the attachment points of the gas spring to the hatch and inside of the galley. The attachment points are determined by the overall extended length of the gas springs that you choose. The attachment point inside of the galley should be placed along a radius measurement from the hinge center point equal to the extended length of the gas spring. The ideal position for the hatch attachment point is 85% of the gas spring stroke length from the hinge center point. The stroke length is determined by referring the gas springs manufacturer data. (Example: If you choose a 28 inch gas spring than the stroke length would be approximately 12.8 inches. 85% of 12.8 inches would be 10.88 inches. This means the attachment point on the galley hatch would be 10.88 inches from the hinge center point.)
    Due to the configuration of your trailer and hatch it may not be possible or desirable to attach the gas spring in these locations. Another thing to consider will be the height of your hatch in the open position. You will need to determine the best attachment locations to ensure that you have enough headroom and that your springs do not compress more than 85% of the stroke length when the hatch is in the closed position. If you end up choosing a gas spring shorter than the ideal length of gas spring suggested by the 60% rule try to maintain the ideal hatch attachment point based on the stroke length of the shorter gas spring. Using an hatch attachment point closer to the hinge center point will require gas springs with a higher force rating.
    To allow for proper mounting support, the attachment points should be figured out early in your build using a drawing program or the old pencil and paper method.
    Next determine the dead weight of the galley hatch. To do this your need to measure the weight of the hatch after it has been attached to your trailer. Prop open the hatch approximately 45 degrees from the closed position. Use a prop stick and a weight scale to measure the weight of the hatch at approximately 50% of the overall length of the hatch.
    After determining the gas spring length, attachment points and hatch dead weight you can now determine the force of the gas springs that are required. Use the formula below to determine the gas spring force needed.
    Overall Hatch Length in Inches Ideal Extended Length of Gas Spring in Inches Number of Springs to be Used
    48 28.8 1
    133.447 Dead Weight in Newton
    Stroke Length of Gas Shock Ideal Spring Attachment to Hinge Center Point in Inches 609.6 Center of Gravity Length in mm
    274.32 Power Arm Length in mm
    8 6.8 296.548 Force required in Newton
    29.6548 Safety Factor in Newton
    Spring Attachment to Hinge Center Point in Inches Hatch Dead Weight in Pounds Required Force of Gas Springs in Pounds
    10.8 30 73

  12. Banned
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    #12
    Above is an Excel spreadsheet but I cannot paste the link on this site. I did the next best thing and just copied and pasted the text for you.

  13. Go Cubs Go cubswin's Avatar
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    #13
    I prefer weaker springs, found that the heavier springs like to pull screws out over time if any of the screws get loose. I replaced mine, have enough force to hold the lid up, but that is all.
    "It's even, but it ain't settled. Let's settle it." Fast Eddie
    I still can't believe they actually won...Cubs Fans Everywhere

  14. Banned
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by cubswin View Post
    I prefer weaker springs, found that the heavier springs like to pull screws out over time if any of the screws get loose. I replaced mine, have enough force to hold the lid up, but that is all.
    I would use bolts with nylock nuts to prevent what you are describing.

  15. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 5-Dinks View Post
    I would use bolts with nylock nuts to prevent what you are describing.
    How are you doing that in a compartment lid? I suppose I could see that working in some instances on the end where it attaches to the boat itself...
    2011 Skeeter ZX225
    225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
    Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
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    Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34

  16. Banned
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    #16
    Thru bolt the lid and bury the low profile pan head bolt head into the carpet then fluff the carpet back over the head. Hardly noticeable afterwards.

  17. Member
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    #17
    @8theb8 has a video on his RT188 strut install. Here's the link: