Could use some help and have read bits and pieces of information on this here at BBC (as well as read horror stories), but I can't find a definitive "help" guide (even in the maintenance section - great section - just need some more specifics).
In short, folks recommend tightening your jack plate bolts and motor mount bolts at least once year, if not twice a year (is that right - that often?). If in rough water with a sustained run, folks say you should inspect them after the run. If not, it can be at a minimum very expensive to repair or worse, a serious safety issue.
I have a 2017 520C with a Mercury Pro XS. I've seen folks post this as the spec (?):
90 ft lbs engine bolts to jack plate (metal to metal; some report 80 ft lbs)
55 ft lbs jack plate to transom (metal to fiberglass)
I also saw where folks emphasize on the transom bolts to make sure you hold the bolt as you tighten the nut to not allow it to turn or you will break the silicone seal on the transom, which will lead to water ingress.
I also saw where someone was going to make a video (2014 post I believe) showing how to do this routine maintenance, but I was not able to find the video.
Since I can't "undo" a mistake once done, I thought I would post here first before doing anything. If this is indeed routine and straight forward, there has to be a load of folks that do this all the time, particularly if most folks recommend every 6 months.
I will take any and all advice - here are a few general questions:
1. It's pretty tight in there. Granted my photo doesn't have the hydraulic jack plate all the way up with the motor trimmed all the way down, but even then, it's a tight space irregardless of what you adjust to allow room for tools. Is there a specific tool that fits well to get the job done? I have a torque wrench (large automotive) and socket wrench, but it's very, very tight. The torque wrench is too big. There has to be a better way.
2. Getting to the transom bolts. The top two require what appears to pop off a circular plastic cover (black) to gain access. What is the best way to do this without damaging the plastic cover? Just pop out with a thin, flathead screwdriver? Does it require any twisting? I know once I get the first one off I will know what to do then (or even if it was a big deal), but I would rather do that without potentially damaging it first.
3. Silicone seal. It seems virtually impossible to guarantee no bolt twist - and it looks like it has be a two man job, at least for the bottom two bolts. Looks like you have to take off the black splash well cover to get to the bottom two bolts and then have someone crawl in there to try to reach the bolt while the other man remains outside by the transom - so communication is going to key but seems like no matter what it will lead to some twist - particularly if someone has to crawl in which will limit their ability to "guarantee" no twist through long, outstretched arms. What then? Is some twist acceptable? Once the job is done, regardless, do you apply silcone around the perimeter externally on the external transom and internal transom just to be safe? Even then, if you do this every 6 to 12 months, seems like build-up would eventually be a problem, and removing the silicone would be a pain because access is already not that easy inside the transom.
At any rate, I will stop there. For something as potentially dangerous (important) but "routine", this has to be easier than I am making it out to be and folks have to be doing this all the time with no problems. It will be my first time doing this, so I am trying to head off a host of first time mistakes leveraging the experience base of this board. As with anything, once you do it once, you know the right path.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to help. I know I can't be alone on this.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by blkfalc4
