1995 fastrike not starting

[Bassalive]

I have a 95 Johnson 150, it wouldn't start on a trip in the Fall,it would turn over but nothing...it wasn't showing anything on the volt guage.

I got tinkering around,and noticed the red wire going into the voltage rectifier/regulator was totally burned off.

I was thinking Ureka! There is the problem,but feel this might go deeper than simply replacing the voltage rec/reg.

Would this cause the whole issue of no start,no volts, and what would cause this to happen is my question?

I removed the voltage regulator and it appears it burned off in the core..

Any insite will be appreciated.

[bluecrab]

if the Red wire you mention goes to the terminal where it joins the starter's solenoid then you might have a short to ground or very low resistance from the rectifier all the way to the battery......is the battery good? ...I have seen batteries with damaged cells that makes the rectifier work more than it's supposed to and eventually kill it.
From your input looks like the electronics inside the rectifier are fried and need to be replaced but check if there is no short all the way to the battery first. Also you could disconnect that wire and if your battery is good, with some help and ignition off..crank the engine and measure the voltage on that red cable to ground, it is supposed to have around 14-16v...

[316jughead]

The regulator is water cooled. Have you recently had a water pump or cooling problem?

[Bassalive]

Thinking back,I was on the lake in a windstorm, and lost my trim...

I got it in to a calm cove, and the main fuse was blown, replaced it,and had the trim back.

While getting the boat on the trailer it blew again,and not having another, I needed to jump it with a small piece of wire to raise the motor.

I found a knick in one of the wires,taped it,replaced the fuse, and run the tilt/trim through a few full cycles with no issues.

It was on the next outing that it wouldn't start,and I found the burnt red wire to the regulator.

The battery is good, and I will make certain it's pumping water,and pray I didn't heat it up, but I'm constantly rubber knecking to check the stream.

[ChampioNman]

A water pressure gauge would eliminate the rubbernecking issue. You shouldn't have more than 14.6V at the cranking battery with the motor running. Test your kill switch circuit using a meter. A quick test is do disconnect the plug wires and use a spark board and crank the engine with the port side connector unplugged from the power pack. Don't do it with the plugs connected as you won't have a way to shut the motor down. The new design on the V/R has the purple wire removed, doing this prevents the V/R from burning up. Consult your service manual for further testing.

[Bassalive]

Thank you,this jump started my Winter brain.

I was laying in bed after reading through the service manual,and your suggestions,I got thinking this motor has everything it needs to run......

unless Im missing something,if I unplugged the motor from the big red boat plug,and put power directly to the starter,the thing should fire up?..
.
Then would need flood her to shut it down?,...woulnd't that eliminate the motor,and the issue would be from the starter selenoid to the console?

[billnorman1]

I think there's an important clue here. He put a wire in place of the fuse to the trim motor. Since the fuse blew twice, there was probably a (short) reason the fuse blew, pulling more current than it was supposed to. The trim circuit is on all the time. The overcurrent might have burned the regulator OR the regulator might have been producing too much voltage, or the rectifier might have been shorted producing AC which the DC trim motor can't process.
I'd say, inspect the wiring and battery connections, replace the regulator, take the wire jumper out, check the operation of the trim circuit look for shorted wiring in the motor leg which might be pinched when raising or lowering the motor.
Since guesses are free, I just used mine.

[316jughead]

I think there's an important clue here. He put a wire in place of the fuse to the trim motor. Since the fuse blew twice, there was probably a (short) reason the fuse blew, pulling more current than it was supposed to. The trim circuit is on all the time. The overcurrent might have burned the regulator OR the regulator might have been producing too much voltage, or the rectifier might have been shorted producing AC which the DC trim motor can't process.
I'd say, inspect the wiring and battery connections, replace the regulator, take the wire jumper out, check the operation of the trim circuit look for shorted wiring in the motor leg which might be pinched when raising or lowering the motor.
Since guesses are free, I just used mine.

Some good guesses there

[ChampioNman]

Did you ever put a piston in the motor?

[omcforever]

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....2716&highlight=

[316jughead]

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....2716&highlight=

Good grief, I give up. No telling what he's done.

[Bassalive]

Yes, after reading over my posts,I can see where It stopped making sense. I aplogize for that.

Please allow me to clarify this confusion,

The motor was working flawless until the trim/tilt stopped working.

It blew 2 main fuses, I only used a jumper wire to raise it to put on the trailer then removed it.

Found a wire in the fuse line chaffed and touching engine block which I taped up.

Replaced fuse, tested tilt/trim at motor,console,and bow switch which all worked fine without blowing fuse.

Backed into lake the next day the trim/tilt worked fine, but now motor cranks won't start.....

looked things over to find the red wire from the selenoid is burned off at regulator/rec.

Ordering a new regulator/rectifier.

[billnorman1]

The 1990's called, they want the Stratos, Chevrolet and Faststrike back. I bet you have a flip phone.

[bluecrab]

remember to make sure there is no more shorts from solenoid joint to ground.....also if the engine cranks and you have no sparks...things might be a little more complicated....I think this engines have their own ignition module which operate with their own voltage from a separate feed/coils from the stator....perhaps Fred or Jerry can jump in and give their input....