2004 Skeeter zx225, I have those rails on driver and passenger side of Boat. I have tightening down the 2 toward bow. But can’t find access to the back 2. Anyone had this issue? I tried to upload a picture but was unsuccessful. Any help is appreciated
I unscrewed the two dry boxes behind seats- the bolts were right there. Not sure how yours is set up thoigh
1999 Skeeter ZX202 - 2000 Mercury 200EFI - Tempest+ 25p - Minn Kota Ultrex - Lowrance HDS7 Gen2 touch/ Elite7 Chirp - GoFree WiFi1 module
I saw about 8 screws holding dry box down felt like nuts under the screws. I couldn’t tell if the dry box lifted out. Thanks will try that this week.
Did you replace your bushings? Mine are cracked in multiple places.
I did. I made some up but I believe you can go to any hardware store and get a toilet TANK bolt set and use the washers from the kit... other than that, you’d have to make yourself some..
I never put the screws back in the bry boxes (yet). I believe I also had to remove the hydronic struts... just FYI. Not sure of the difference between our boats.
The older skeeters, before ours, you could unscrew the dry boxes. I have a 2004 zx225 also and couldn't get to the nuts by removing the dry boxes.
For the passenger side handle rear nut, you can unscrew the small piece of carpeted wood on the left side of the seat that's at an angle to support co-angler rods. Under this wood there is a large hole and I was able to reach through that and get to the nut.
The drive side rear nut.... I gave up because i was in a hurry, so i'm not sure how to get to that one.
I ended up removing my rails all together and plugging the holes. I think it looks better.
How did you remove yours with Out getting to the nut? And what kind plug did you use? I’m fine with taking them off but would rather tighten the nuts
A sawzall.
I used some plugs like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPKWUGM...a-315302993271 (NOT these exact ones, I probably used a different size, but just to give you an idea.)
My top cap is white where the rail is so they blend in. If I really wanted to get serious I would re-fiberglass the holes in (I've repaired fiberglass before) or maybe even put a rear cleat where the back hole was. But I've lived with it like it is for 2 years and I like it.
Ok gotcha. Figured you were gonna saw sawzall. Lol. Just trying to avoid that. I’m gonna try and take the dry box out tommorow.
I had a 2003 ZX and couldn’t get to the nuts by removing the boxes either. I got to all my bolts except the front driver side the same way. I could reach the rear driver side from the rear gas compartment. Tore my arm up but I got it. In hindsight, wish I had just cut a slice in the washer and forced it under the rail. I liked the rails.Originally Posted by wbrown
I can reach the front two and have tightened those. Gonna try gas compartment but I have a big arm. Lol gonna be hard to get to it. It’s not a great design
Still can’t teach the drivers side back but. Got the other 3. Just terrible design
I went into back drivers compartment and cut 3 sides of a square in the side of box and was able to pull it back enough to reach in and tighten rear but after replacing washer. I took a small strip of aluminum and ran across area I cut and installed self tapping screws to keep it in place. It’s not noticeable at all. This is how a Skeeter fiberglass repair shop told me was easiest thing to do.
Ok thanks. I’ll try it.
Reply With Quote