Thread: Oil Bath Hubs

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  1. #1
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    Question Oil Bath Hubs

    I have a 2015 Ranger Z119c tandem axle trailer with oil bath hubs when I bought the boat I was told they do not need to be serviced for 3 yrs so I asked the service dept the other day if they recommended to go ahead an change the hub oil and they told me if there not leaking don't touch them so I pulled center caps off to take a look and the sight glass is very dark hard to tell level of fluid but they were not milky lookin which is a plus I guess so my question is how often is everyone changing hub oil

  2. Member
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    #2
    Mine is a 2011 and I have only changed one because it was leaking. Average estimated annual miles 6000. I am on my third set of tires.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Shouldn't all of 2015 models have the vault hubs? i don't know which year Ranger shifted away from the oil bath hubs. Look in your owners manual for information it also covers the trailer.
    Phillip "Wade" Norris
    2015 Ranger Z520C
    250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
    25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open


  4. Member
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    #4
    2010 to present are vault "hybrid grease" hubs They offer a 10 unlimited mile warranty through UFP. Google it.

  5. Scraps
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    #5
    I had the original COOL hubs on a 1998 trailer. I can say I did more harm doing "maintenance" on those hubs. Best advice, if they're not leaking, even if they are a little milky - leave them alone.
    2017 Phoenix 819
    2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD

  6. Member
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    #6
    Thanks for the info guys nice to know they don’t need to be touched

  7. Member
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    #7
    Mines a tandem axle 2008. I've changed the oil twice and never (knock on wood) had a leak.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Change hub oil yearly with lucas hub oil.
    2004 Ranger 521vx Yamaha 250 SHO



  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by krindgen View Post
    I had the original COOL hubs on a 1998 trailer. I can say I did more harm doing "maintenance" on those hubs. Best advice, if they're not leaking, even if they are a little milky - leave them alone.
    Mines a 2001 with cool hubs I've spent more time repairing hubs than I care to count.

  10. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger62 View Post
    Mines a 2001 with cool hubs I've spent more time repairing hubs than I care to count.
    So did I on my 2001. Frankly, I think those early COOL Hubs were a PITA compared to greased hubs.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  11. Scraps
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hahn View Post
    So did I on my 2001. Frankly, I think those early COOL Hubs were a PITA compared to greased hubs.
    I can tell you I did more repairing due to unnecessary "maintenance" in my 18yrs with that Ranger trailer. Do more harm than good taking that hub apart than I care to admit. Changing the oil is easy and harmless and also does little to positively or negatively affect the performance of the assembly. If the oil was milky, even then it's not absolutely necessary to change. Biggest cause of milky oil is not getting EVERY last drop of air out of the assembly. I forget what year they switched to the "half-filled" hub arrangement, but that was just a bad idea. Air inside provided the opportunity to form condensation, then corrosion, then issues.
    2017 Phoenix 819
    2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by krindgen View Post
    I can tell you I did more repairing due to unnecessary "maintenance" in my 18yrs with that Ranger trailer. Do more harm than good taking that hub apart than I care to admit. Changing the oil is easy and harmless and also does little to positively or negatively affect the performance of the assembly. If the oil was milky, even then it's not absolutely necessary to change. Biggest cause of milky oil is not getting EVERY last drop of air out of the assembly. I forget what year they switched to the "half-filled" hub arrangement, but that was just a bad idea. Air inside provided the opportunity to form condensation, then corrosion, then issues.
    05 to 09 Tie down eng hubs when they were oil hubs were only filled half full.