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  1. #1
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    Epoxying prop holes & redrilling?

    I have a 24 Raker original that has 7/16 exhaust holes that blows out on holeshot with 2 anglers & i have to feather it until it catches & goes on. Coming out with 3 is nearly impossible even though i rarely have 3 in the boat. Also if you slow down to stop then decide to go on you have to come to a stop & start over. I was thinking of epoxying all three of them up & redrilling to 5/16 to reduce the blowout. Essentially it would basicly be like doing away with one hole which should help getting out of the hole. Am i right in my thinking? Also when redrilling would you go with 5/16 or 1/4 inch? Thanks

  2. Member
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    #2
    Just curious. Can you drill it out to fit the mercury assorted plugs?

  3. Member
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Wall-I View Post
    Just curious. Can you drill it out to fit the mercury assorted plugs?
    Probably, but i've been told the pvs plugs take a stepped hole. If i get it suitable to me i can have local prop shop weld them up & redrill them or i can send to Mark to add the plugs. They say it's the nature of a Raker, but i've owned a bunch of them & this is the only one that has done it at all. I just figured it over venting i'd give it a try to see if it helps.

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    #4
    Before you do any welding or gluing get some metal or plastic plugs from Lowes or Home depot and plug one hole and try the prop with the hole plugged to see if it still blows out. It shouldn't blow out at all once you are moving on pad so it might be something else and not the holes. You might want to talk to Mark Croxton about redrilling the holes in it now.

  5. Pat Goff
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    #5
    Fill it with JB Weld. If you need to drill it out later you can.
    Pat Goff

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    #6
    Pat thanks. That’s exactly what I had in mind. Like I said they’re 7/16 now & I figured going 5/16 would be about like closing one hole up& if it needs more venting i’ll drill them out 1/16 at a time to dial it in. Thanks

  7. Member J Risco's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by pmgoffjr View Post
    Fill it with JB Weld. If you need to drill it out later you can.

    Ive done it on a few props, works great. Put tape on the outside and fill with JB from the inside, pull tape when dry.
    2021 Phoenix 920 Elite / SHO 250
    Bullet 21XD / 250 XB (Gone to a great home in LA)
    "There is no such thing as a bad day fishing!"

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by mdtritn21 View Post
    Before you do any welding or gluing get some metal or plastic plugs from Lowes or Home depot and plug one hole and try the prop with the hole plugged to see if it still blows out. It shouldn't blow out at all once you are moving on pad so it might be something else and not the holes. You might want to talk to Mark Croxton about redrilling the holes in it now.
    mdtriton thanks. It only blows out on holeshot or when almost coming to a stop then deciding to go on. I’m gonna do a little experimenting. I thought about sending it to Mark first, but I want to try this to see what effect it has. Then if it needs worked i’ll have Mark work it & add pvs holes too all at the same time. Thanks

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by J Risco View Post
    Ive done it on a few props, works great. Put tape on the outside and fill with JB from the inside, pull tape when dry.
    Jrisco, that’s exactly what i’m gonna do. Thanks

  10. Member J Risco's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Les Young View Post
    Jrisco, that’s exactly what i’m gonna do. Thanks
    If you are using the runny JB Weld you might have to fill one hole and let it sit at the 6 oclock position til it sets up a bit

    I prefer the kind that comes in a cylinder and looks like a mini roll of cookie dough, you cut off how much you need, kneed it together and then apply, but since its like clay it stays in place

    Like this: https://www.jbweld.com/products/stee...xy-putty-stick
    or
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOB8P6...a-332206192514
    2021 Phoenix 920 Elite / SHO 250
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    #11
    I know exactly what you’re talking about. Thanks

  12. Member J Risco's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Les Young View Post
    I know exactly what you’re talking about. Thanks
    Cool. Side note, that putty stuff is stupid strong! My dad broke his ducer mount on the TM, I did a temp fix with that stuff and a year later when we wanted to remove it I had to beat it with a hammer to get it loose. He had hit logs and bottom and told me it was holding strong, which was s surprise, but after I saw what it took to get it off I realized how strong that putty is!!!
    2021 Phoenix 920 Elite / SHO 250
    Bullet 21XD / 250 XB (Gone to a great home in LA)
    "There is no such thing as a bad day fishing!"

  13. Member
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    #13
    I epoxied all exhaust holes closed on my 24 Raker original with JB Weld on my 03 Johnson 175 on an 03 stratos 18XL after talking with Pat & Mark both. It's way better, but you still have to let off to let it catch on breakover although it's not nearly as bad as it was & it isn't unbearabale. It actually had very little blowout with 2, but when my other buddy got in it was definitley worse than with 2 , It did get on plane after letting it catch & was definitley better with 3 than ever before by a long shot. Do you guys think the prop needs worked now too or should i just live with it? Thanks

  14. Member fastman151's Avatar
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    #14
    Blowout is one of the cons of a Raker. I had one, closed all the holes and finally sent it to Mark, it would still blowout. You just have to live with it!
    Just can't leave well enough alone!!

    98 Stratos 273 w/ 150 Faststrike

  15. Pat Goff
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    #15
    I've never seen a raker yet that didn't need work out of the box. I've heard of some that didn't but I think those are unicorns.

    Steady hand can really make a big difference. Not just holeshot, the annoying tendency of a raker to take forever to finally "catch up" and finally find some lift and pop the hull up.
    Pat Goff

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