Missing/Losing a TON of Fish on a "Stupid" Tube

[Bassbme]

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Eagle...age-ECHPT.html

This would be, and is the hook I use when using an internal weight like you are describing. The tube stays put when skipping. They're sharp but easily sharpened if dulled. The points hold up really well, too. The only downfall I have seen is that if you don't use something like Inhibitor VCI chips, they'll rust pretty quickly. As I use those religiously, I don't have a problem with them rusting. IMO they're the ticket for what you're looking for.

[BSSCT98]

I am sure that you know this, but fish are going to hit 99% of the baits you throw by the head. They can't swallow bait fish tail first unless it is very small, the fins will get stuck in there throat and they will drown. It is natures way of letting them eat without problems.

[lisa1117]

Terry McWilliams Stupid/Hoosier tube master. Here are a couple links for you.

[mn_bowhunter]

Drew - line is too light with a limp rod and an underpowered setup and then add your hook is buried in the plastic. Maybe I missed it, but what hook are you using and what rod? I'd step up to a baitcasting setup and when the fish hits, hit it like a jig bite. The whole issue is you're not driving the hook through the plastic and far enough into the fish - you're just skim hooking the fish. On a stupid tube setup, you want to use a larger gap hook then you would if you were throwing and exposed hook.

[DrewFlu33]

Tons of good advice just keeps coming. Thanks a bunch, guys.

Drew - line is too light with a limp rod and an underpowered setup and then add your hook is buried in the plastic. Maybe I missed it, but what hook are you using and what rod? I'd step up to a baitcasting setup and when the fish hits, hit it like a jig bite. The whole issue is you're not driving the hook through the plastic and far enough into the fish - you're just skim hooking the fish. On a stupid tube setup, you want to use a larger gap hook then you would if you were throwing and exposed hook.

I mentioned it in one of my replies I think, but the hook in the jigheads I've got are 2/0 and 3/0 flat eye Mustad EWGs and the rod I've used has been a medium-fast spinning rod. I'm fairly sure it's a Cabelas Tourney Special or something like that - nothing fancy. I'm absolutely with you on the wider gap...I've always used jigheads with "round bend" gaps (just a normal gap) for exposed hook applications, so the stupid style jigheads do have wider bends. Several people have said the hook is too small, but going with a much bigger hook in most of the 3 to 3.5 inch tubes I throw just wouldn't work as it'd require some major stretching to get the hook point protected by plastic. Of course then the thing won't stay rigged up correctly.

I think the tip to hit it like a jig bite is exactly what I needed to hear to get to a point where I can have success with this technique - I've really been looking at it as a finesse technique like fishing a "regular" tube throwing it on 20 lb braid with an 8 lb fluoro leader. If I were to throw it on a baitcaster with something like 16 lb fluoro, I could (and wouldn't be afraid to) hit the fish hard enough to really drive that hook home. Most situations (aside from maybe some rocky places) where I'm throwing a stupid tube are in heavy cover where I can get away with heavier line anyhow.

Clearly getting the hook point through the plastic is the biggest issue. In my mind as I've puzzled over it, another concern is that absent the tube collapsing enough on its own, the jighead needs to rotate somewhat on the hookset to allow the hook to penetrate properly. Seems like this is an even bigger concern with a flat eye hook where there ends up being more plastic in the way of the hook eye for the jighead to rotate. Any thoughts on ripping out a little extra plastic around where the hook eye emerges to make that rotation easier? I suppose it doesn't change the fact that upping the power of my setup and changing my mindset will get me setting it well enough for this to be much less of an issue.

[fastman151]

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Eagle...age-ECHPT.html

This would be, and is the hook I use when using an internal weight like you are describing. The tube stays put when skipping. They're sharp but easily sharpened if dulled. The points hold up really well, too. The only downfall I have seen is that if you don't use something like Inhibitor VCI chips, they'll rust pretty quickly. As I use those religiously, I don't have a problem with them rusting. IMO they're the ticket for what you're looking for.

I've used these with good success but that clip on the hook sure tears up the tube!

[Bill Reynolds]

I was having trouble with the hook not coming through the tube so I started just laying it along the outside of the tube and skin hook it. This pic shows it but I now use the Gamakatsu Skip Gap hook. I also peg my sinker when fishing heavy brush.