Ranger trail trailer surge coupling banging

[wmitch2]

Shock absorber cylinder is bad, maybe?

^^^^THIS^^^^^

[mikesxpress]

Look in the tips section above.
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=731897

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=569596

[cmeyer301]

When my 09 started banging, I ended up having to replace the entire brake assembly in the swing tongue and then bleed the breaks. This fixed my issue. I ordered the parts through Ranger and I believe that the new master-cylinder assembly was under $200.

[OldTimer57]

99% of the time this is a symptom of poor maintenance. Always check fluid regularly, do NOT let it get low, or you will get air in the system. To see if that is the problem, drag the boat to a downhill location. Stop and put on emergency brake (do NOT put it in park). Have friend in truck to be sure it doesn't start to roll forward. Get out, walk back to hitch and measure how far forward the trailer has moved on the actuator. 1/4" on mine, max. 1/2" is probably OK. No more than 1/3 of the available travel however. If it is all the way forward, you have no brakes.

The reason you don't put it in park is that you have to go through reverse to get there. That momentarily flashes the solenoid voltage which will allow the master cylinder to compress further, making you think you have a problem when you really don't. The end of my driveway is a good place to do this so I do it every 2nd or 3rd trip since it takes less than 30 seconds. The first time it moves further than normal is a sign you need to start checking things further.

That being said, surge brakes will NEVER be quiet. Every time you slow down the trailer overruns the truck and compresses the master cylinder. When you accelerate, your truck has to pull the actuator back to its normal non-braking position and that will produce a clunk. Particularly when you are driving downhill. Going uphill things are usually quieter since the trailer will settle back as you stop making less noise when you take off. But as you introduce air, the master cylinder will compress more (since air can be compressed while the fluid can not) and that leaves more room for travel when you take off, giving a louder clunk. It is RARELY the shock absorber. The way to determine that is bad is when you slow down, you will hear many rapid clunks and the trailer actuates the brakes, then backs off from the truck, then actuates again, then backs off again... Sure sign the shock is shot.

Before replacing parts, look at the fluid level. And run the downhill test I mentioned. If it has excessive travel, fix it yourself or have it fixed. Otherwise it is unsafe to tow.