04 Tracker Deck wood condition?

[bockscar]

****ILL BE UPDATING WITH PICS ASAP, COULDNT DO IT DURING OP, sorry*********

So just removed the front deck from my tracker. Planning to add some hydroturf to it instead of recarpeting.

I was planning on just sanding the current wood deck, sealing with helmsman spar urethane, and then placing the hydroturf. Got to looking at the wood and im wondering if I need to replace the wood. Wood looks a little darker than id expect, and had some darker spots on the backside that im wondering if its water or maybe an oil stain? The top side is a lot more beat up looking than the back....you can see in the pics how some of the top layer broke off when i tried to do a quick sand to feel things out.

I fished off the deck about 4 times since purchase....and it felt sturdy with no soft spots or anything like that. wondering if that may be due to the frame/support thats directly under the deck tho? Wondering if maybe I should just reverse it so the bottom is the top since its in better shape (smoother)....or if I do need to replace it fully.

[bockscar]

[bockscar]

[bockscar]

those darker spots around the screw holes are WD40 I used to loosen screws.

this is where I tried to do the quick sand and some of the wood started chipping off.


darker spots are screwholes w/ WD40



Underside...and some of those dark spots i mentioned

[bockscar]

sorry for multi posts....last one has them all.

posting pics is pain! lol

[Oldone]

Best I can tell, your plywood looks good to me. I would however, remove the lid and the pedestal mount and do some prodding there and around the screw holes for any softness. If all is OK clean thoroughly and liberally with acetone. When completely dry coat with epoxy resin, 2 heavy coats each side and especially the edges. Allow to cure for at least a few days if not a week. Then glue down whatever you wish. Don't know where QC was they built the boat but this was not the way to do it. A miracle it has lasted this long if that was original.

[bockscar]

Best I can tell, your plywood looks good to me. I would however, remove the lid and the pedestal mount and do some prodding there and around the screw holes for any softness. If all is OK clean thoroughly and liberally with acetone.

Lid is on with rivets so I need to figure out the best way to remove from the wood. Prolly just drill them out. I was planning to remove those things tho during sanding thats coming up. screw holes felt ok when the deck was still on the boat, but i will give them another check since the decks completely out now.

When completely dry coat with epoxy resin, 2 heavy coats each side and especially the edges. Allow to cure for at least a few days if not a week. Then glue down whatever you wish.

Im still a bit lost with epoxy resins from the little googling ive done. No idea EXACTLY what I need to get it done. Although Ive read its the best bet and will last longest....doing the epoxy is something I am trying to avoid since it seems a bit more involved and requiring more skill than I have. I also dont foresee really needing the full throttle waterproofing or results from Epoxy. My boats a 17foot tracker, so I dont see myself out there on many rainy or windy days since my homelake gets a bit dangerous when its windy. Keeping the boat covered too now.

Don't know where QC was they built the boat but this was not the way to do it. A miracle it has lasted this long if that was original.

lol I love my little tracker. What are you referring too? Everything is original on the boat. But I do know it has been sitting unused (and likely uncovered a good portion of it) for 6-7 years in the hot southwest sun. Runs good....and ill get her pretty eventually! haha

[kirkster321]

Walmart has resin for sale in the automotive section. Comes with a small tube of hardener. Mix according to directions and use a paint brush to brush it on the wood. Let it dry and the wood will be waterproof. Really simple but can be messy so get some rubber gloves. Make sure to coat the edges of the piece really good.

[bockscar]

so i dont need to buy the $100+ gallon jugs that have 2 or more bottles that are needed?

Price was another reason I was shying away from the resin, but if its that simple maybe i need to reconsider!

Hows that wood look? Thinking about flipping it around so the cleaner bottom side is the new top side I use to glue the hydroturf to.

[Ben Danbleume]

Is that deck still just CDX plywood, like the 90's models were?

[Oldone]

I have had good luck with with US Composite epoxy. I think it's around $63 a GL. When you get a gallon it comes with hardener so you actually get about 1 and 1/3. Not really difficult to work with just measure accurately and mix thoroughly. For what you are doing, could be brushed or rolled on. Just use cheap throw away brushes etc. Can be cleaned up with acetone or white vinegar. I use their 3:1 epoxy. I can't tell how big the wood is, but if it is less than 1/2 a sheet, a gallon will be enough. Good luck.

[bockscar]

Is that deck still just CDX plywood, like the 90's models were?

its on a 2004 Tracker...and everything was original. thats the extent of what I know about the wood unfortunately....any way i can tell by looking at it?

[bockscar]

I have had good luck with with US Composite epoxy. I think it's around $63 a GL. When you get a gallon it comes with hardener so you actually get about 1 and 1/3. Not really difficult to work with just measure accurately and mix thoroughly. For what you are doing, could be brushed or rolled on. Just use cheap throw away brushes etc. Can be cleaned up with acetone or white vinegar. I use their 3:1 epoxy. I can't tell how big the wood is, but if it is less than 1/2 a sheet, a gallon will be enough. Good luck.

ill look that one up! thanks

[Lape0019]

Still looks good to me. The kicker her is do you replace the wood and hydrotuef at the same time or are you back at it in 5 years when the wood starts going soft? If I was recarpeting, I’d replace the wood while I’m there.

[CastingCall]

You could re-use the wood to save money, but at this point, I'd replace it with a new chunk of outdoor rated plywood (doesn't have to be marine grade). Sealers likely won't stick well where the WD-40 has soaked in either.
Make all your cuts in the new plywood, and drill all your holes, then seal it as recommended previously (especially raw edges).

• Varnish or paint will work, but will eventually break down and allow moisture/humidity in - won't last long and not recommended for a long-term fix.
• Fiberglass resin (polyester or vinylester) will work better, is easier to come by, and cheaper than epoxy. But won't last forever and should be applied over a layer of fiberglass cloth to really seal the wood and provide additional strength to the plywood.
• Epoxy is the best for longevity and bondability to plywood. It is a bit more expensive than polyester resin, but it also adds strength to the wood. If applied over a layer of cloth, it will be virtually bulletproof and will likely outlast the boat.

If you decide to add a layer of fiberglass cloth, be sure to radius the edges of the wood where the cloth needs to wrap around. Cloth doesn't bend around a square edge, so there will be voids in the laminate.

[bockscar]

Still looks good to me. The kicker her is do you replace the wood and hydrotuef at the same time or are you back at it in 5 years when the wood starts going soft? If I was recarpeting, I’d replace the wood while I’m there.

So heres my short term (or short sighted depending on your perspective lol) plan on things. I just bought the boat in october...runs like a champ thankfully....but a little weathered since its sat in the hot sun for the last 6+ years. Hate to admit it since its not a KVD tourney rig or anything expensive....but the purchase tapped my budget out...with that said I dont regret it since it was the EXACT boat I wanted, and had to pull the trigger since my price range is super competitive....in my opinion I can sell the boat for a profit today in the same condition as I bought it....hurt the wallet but it was a good purchase....and the funds will recover! lol....but its gonna take time so im trying to keep all costs down for the next few months, and maybe year (buying new TM this week too).

Original plan was to JUST recarpet the deck since it showed the most wear and had lots of wood exposed...and wanted to do it as cheaply as possible. I found hydroturf which imo is a bit cheaper overall vs. carpet.....planned to just hydroturf the deck.....and hope it lasts a couple years. The rest of the upholstery and things should last about that long too...plus that should be more than enough time to trick out my boat to get it where i want it (i.e. 1 more Mega Imaging graph, and upgrade to iPilot). Then after the important stuff is in and paid for(in cash...I HATE DEBT and CCs)......THEN I wanna do a FULL RECARPET job with 20/24 ounce and padded decks after all that....then it should be the perfect rig....at least for me! haha

You could re-use the wood to save money, but at this point, I'd replace it with a new chunk of outdoor rated plywood (doesn't have to be marine grade). Sealers likely won't stick well where the WD-40 has soaked in either.
Make all your cuts in the new plywood, and drill all your holes, then seal it as recommended previously (especially raw edges).

• Varnish or paint will work, but will eventually break down and allow moisture/humidity in - won't last long and not recommended for a long-term fix.
• Fiberglass resin (polyester or vinylester) will work better, is easier to come by, and cheaper than epoxy. But won't last forever and should be applied over a layer of fiberglass cloth to really seal the wood and provide additional strength to the plywood.
• Epoxy is the best for longevity and bondability to plywood. It is a bit more expensive than polyester resin, but it also adds strength to the wood. If applied over a layer of cloth, it will be virtually bulletproof and will likely outlast the boat.

If you decide to add a layer of fiberglass cloth, be sure to radius the edges of the wood where the cloth needs to wrap around. Cloth doesn't bend around a square edge, so there will be voids in the laminate.

im not sure if ill go full boar this go round...but ill def look more seriously into this and other epoxy options in the future.

[CastingCall]

In the short-term to save time and money, your plan to re-use the existing deck with a sealer is the logical choice... especially since you know going into it that it's not the long-term solution.
Good luck on the project - keep taking pics and sharing your progress!

[bockscar]

In the short-term to save time and money, your plan to re-use the existing deck with a sealer is the logical choice... especially since you know going into it that it's not the long-term solution.
Good luck on the project - keep taking pics and sharing your progress!

thanks and will do! Figure that ill serve as a test run with hydroturf too. I like it, and still after all my research im torn between just recarpeting....or maybe even hydroturfing the whole boat. Prolly gonna end up with carpet since I worry that carpet is more important in a tracker to keep things set (I hear 30-40 feet is required to recarpet a 17 footer lol)....but itll give me a test drive for hydroturf....plus give me a chance to log things online for others. Not much stuff on hydroturfing bass boats....and even less on hydroturfing a Tracker PT 175.

What do you think about flipping the wood around since the bottom side is still a bit smoother?

[CastingCall]

Flip it and test fit to verify it fits. May not be as symmetric as you think. But if it is, and it fits, go for it!