Power Cut Off Switch Ideas?

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Thanks to you for a great insite into this.
The thought behind relays is that I could activate and deactivate the power to the Talons when needed.
The insight into the difference between the temporary and continuous energized relays is something that I will keep in mind.
Yes the current rating for each Talon is 30 Amps.
So a cut off switch should be single 8 gauge in to a single 60 Amp switch and two fused 10 gauge wires out. Or a seperate 30 Amp switch with 10 gauge wires in and out fused for each Talon. This would give the option to disconnect a single Talon if electrical issues arise.
Someone suggested that the Talons be wired through the Master Switch. With my boat having two 20 Amp circuits running through the Master Switch adding additional current would mean that I would need a 100Amp switch :-0
A descent idea but I like the idea of beind able to energize the Talons when needed. I might look into having the two switches by the master switch. (That was why I thought about Relays, small switches and wirering needed at the helm)
Any pictures of what you used would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
I think that I will use the switches and see is my Alzheimer's remembers to turn them off at the end of the day.

I don't use the relays for this purpose. I use a battery cutoff switch. I locate the switch by the battery and depending on what I'm putting on the switch depends on the size of the switch. Usually if I'm rigging to cutoff the front, console, anchors, depth finders, and other accessories I use one switch rated at 250A. Yes, that's overkill but I don't want a connection problem and I've found once you reach a certain size, cost is minimal to go bigger. I'll put everything except the outboard and the battery charger on that switch, then put the charger plug next to the switch so when you grab the charger plug it reminds you to turn the power off. You should also have something like this on the trolling motor batteries to keep a parasitic draw from pulling those batteries down. Also, allows you to charge without unplugging when you turn it off. Before long, it happens when you're removing or connecting the tie down straps as part of the loading/unloading ritual.
John

[Fishead1167]

I to was thinking of putting a couple switches in the lines. I believe you want the switch to be rated more than the fuse, so in case of problem the fuse blows and not the switch burns up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jtron-On-Of...VX2Gr6&vxp=mtr

my issue is with the wiring. Can't I just run 12 awg from minn kota's fuse to the switch and then 12 back to minn kota's 14 and call it a day?

[Jeff from Iowa]

Does blue sea make a battery disconnect that can disconnect the tm batterys and starting? both by throw one switch?

[Jonestrollingmotor]

I don't know of one from Blue Sea, but looks like this Cole Hersee one does:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4405...-Series-500A-/

[Jeff from Iowa]

I don't know of one from Blue Sea, but looks like this Cole Hersee one does:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4405...-Series-500A-/

Nice thanks. thats worth adding

[okstatebass]

Pull the in line fuses out when not using

[LuistLTZ]

I use the same white On/Off switch as above for my dual poles. Works perfectly for me. I used 2ga wire I believe for the main to the battery.

[Jeff from Iowa]

I don't know of one from Blue Sea, but looks like this Cole Hersee one does:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4405...-Series-500A-/

Wow I ordered that yesterday and got it today.. Its got a feature I didnt even notice a lock hole you can lock it either way thats interesting.....

Its bigger than most people want, probably, it will take a 3" hole saw to install. Im up for it. Thanks again. This one switch will eliminate 3 items I was having to turn on and off.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Wow I ordered that yesterday and got it today.. Its got a feature I didnt even notice a lock hole you can lock it either way thats interesting.....

Its bigger than most people want, probably, it will take a 3" hole saw to install. Im up for it. Thanks again. This one switch will eliminate 3 items I was having to turn on and off.

I havn't used it, but use this company for several of my electrical shop needs/supplies. I figured with the abiilty to cutoff two different circuits there would be some bulk, but since it's a "panel" mount it should look clean once installed. Let us see it when you're done.
BTW, can't be any worse than some of the Perko switches I've seen in boats.

[Jeff from Iowa]

I think I’m putting it in the battery compartment. I store my fish finder covers and motor mate in there anyways so it’s always opened closed at the ramp.

[D-wayne]

Thanks for posting the picture of the Shut off switch LuistLTZ looks great.
I like the idea of having it on the side so I can get to it.
I also like John's multipurpose switch idea. Nice.
Thanks for all the replies.
Keep posting the pictures of your set up
Dwayne

[scream_n_chicken]

I used a switched and a bus bar. Bought them both at west Marine. You simply run the positive cable to the switch and then to the bus bar. This allows you to have a good connection with all your gadgets instead of stacking them on top of each other on a single battery post. It also turns off power to everything which has allowed my battery to receive a full charge ever time and last longer.

[devildog999]

Curious what the benefit of this is supposed to be (honest question, no troll).

[JR19]

Curious what the benefit of this is supposed to be (honest question, no troll).

When not in use they can have a small parasitic draw on your battery. Also when not in use it will eliminate an accidental deployment. Disconnecting them from the power source eliminates this.

[Jeff from Iowa]

The manual says they have a constant draw.

[Jeff from Iowa]

[Jeff from Iowa]

sorry rotated it. the switch on the left is the one that cuts off the tm and main battery, it has a lock out or lock on option also. I cut the flanges off it so it would be round when I mounted it.