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  1. #1
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    482v recessed tray install...need resin advice

    I'm about to install a Troll Well II. I have the cutout completed, foam removed, drain hose routed to the bow drain and everything sanded. Before I screw down the recessed tray, what would be advised as far as coating the exposed foam and wood. I've done a lot of research and have come up with several options.
    Option 1, Fiberglass resin with 25% acetone, add hardener, apply
    Option 2, Fiberglass resin, add hardener, apply
    Option 3, Fiberglass resin, NO hardener, apply
    Option 4, Marine grade RTV, apply around edges and install tray.
    I have watched countless videos and read multiple threads on this, and there seems to be varying differences and reasons individuals waterproof the foam and wood, or not to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bill (Newbie to the board)
    1992 Ranger 482v
    1992 Mercury 175HP XRi SN 0D167948

  2. Member
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    #2
    Acetone is only going to thin the resin,I don't see the need in that. If you don't use hardener the resin is never going to cure so don't do that either. Better to use resin with hardener and brush it on all the needed surfaces. I replaced the floors in two boats and that's how I sealed the wood,seemed to work well.

  3. Member alli ss's Avatar
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    #3
    exactly- resin with hardener. put on multiple coats over a few days

    xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector

  4. Member
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    #4
    Thank you. I'm taking both advice, and will get the first coat on tomorrow.
    1992 Ranger 482v
    1992 Mercury 175HP XRi SN 0D167948

  5. Member
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    #5
    I am using 5200 on mine. I have put on several thin layers...dab it on, and run my fingers over it so it goes into the cracks and crevices and seals everything up nicely. I don't think it will matter as long as you have a waterproof barrier between the atmosphere and the untreated wood.

  6. Member
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    Raleigh NC / Falls Lake
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by alli ss View Post
    exactly- resin with hardener. put on multiple coats over a few days
    + 1 I used a resin sealer . I us US Composites resin. They have a sealer resin or some that you can layer up with .
    I brought the small bottle of 1.1 ratio sealer and used it in the foot tray and under the front bow plate as it had wood ,un seal there in my older 1988 Stratos .
    I did minds in the summer when it was hot . Put a layer on and let dry then a coupler more . Then a bead of silicone around the plate and screws and call it a day . I also drill small pilot holes as the sealer and wood is hard to start.
    Last edited by rchavis; 12-11-2017 at 02:20 PM.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Thanks for the input. I'm putting the last coat on tomorrow, and then let it set for a couple days before installing the tray. Learned fast that you have to apply the fiberglass resin quickly. Instructions read 7 minutes or less...they weren't joking!
    1992 Ranger 482v
    1992 Mercury 175HP XRi SN 0D167948

  8. Member Gabassbuster's Avatar
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    Georgia
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    #8
    if you put the resin or acetone on foam its going to eat the foam up, basically just melt it.

  9. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #9
    Late to the party, but I would have said Option 5 - epoxy resin. Sticks tenaciously, seals with one coat, dries quickly, can be applied to foam and wood, and will outlast the materials it's applied to.