2012 F350 diesel thoughts

[grout-scout]

Here’s my tip for you, DON’T put the DEF into the fuel tank! You’d be surprised at how many people have done that and taken out the entire fuel system.

[BMCD]

I stayed away from Ford until the 6.7, Been in Duramaxes before that. Kept reading all the good things about the 6.7 and everyone seemed happy, So I now own a 15 250 KR 6.7 4x4. No issues.

[C130]

I’ve got a 2015 F450 with 64,000 miles and had the original 6.7 in a 2011 F250 that had 74000 when I traded. Both have been great trucks. Lots of trucks around here are deleted. Many drive a brand new truck off the lot and get it deleted. I bought the extended warranty so I’m not doing anything until the warranty is up. Lead diesel mechanic does work for me on my sons older F250 and he told me many of the common issues with the 6.7 go away once deleted and he sees very little problems with the ones that are deleted.

[BMCD]

I’ve got a 2015 F450 with 64,000 miles and had the original 6.7 in a 2011 F250 that had 74000 when I traded. Both have been great trucks. Lots of trucks around here are deleted. Many drive a brand new truck off the lot and get it deleted. I bought the extended warranty so I’m not doing anything until the warranty is up. Lead diesel mechanic does work for me on my sons older F250 and he told me many of the common issues with the 6.7 go away once deleted and he sees very little problems with the ones that are deleted.

I wonder if he see's less cause they are out of warranty. I want to do it, but alas I'm still under warranty too.

[Tim Powell]

Great trucks, most turbo failures were in the cab and chassis models or on tuned trucks that were pushing too much boost. Most reputable tuners will limit the boost on stock turbo 11-14 trucks to 24-27 psi.

The 2015+ trucks have a much better turbo and an upgraded high pressure fuel pump. The new pump flows roughly 10% more fuel. The early 2011 trucks had cracking valve and glow rod issues but it wasn't wide spread.

My 2011 has been a good truck, I've replaced the secondary water pump because it was leaking, and I've replaced the low pressure fuel pump because it died (these trucks are designed to shut off when the low pressure pump fails)

I do all of my own maintenance, the motor craft fuel filters are $54 on Amazon and it takes about 15 minutes to replace them. One is located underneath on the frame rail and the other is under the hood next to the dipsticks. I do my own oil changes as well, I run Delo LE full synthetic, it's about $20/gallon at Wal-Mart and motor craft oil filter is around $15 at Wal-Mart as well. I change the oil/filter and fuel filters every 7500 miles.

You do not have to pull the cab to work on the 6.7, I have spent quite a bit of time under the hood of mine, I upgraded the turbo, high pressure fuel pump, and quite a few other odds and ends. My truck is custom tuned by Kory at PPEI. I am currently pushing right at 630 HP to the rear wheels. It's a blast to drive for such a big truck.


Bone stock on 18's w/ 33's, I was seeing 18 on the interstate, tuned/deleted was around 20, tuned/deleted w/ turbo upgrades was 21.5...then I switched to stock 20's w/ 35x12.50's and my mileage dropped to 18, now with the upgraded fuel pump and updated tuning I am seeing 18.5 on the interstate empty.

One thing that has always been consistent and pretty strange is my truck gets 14 pulling my boat no matter what mods have been installed.

[B.Combs]

Great trucks, most turbo failures were in the cab and chassis models or on tuned trucks that were pushing too much boost. Most reputable tuners will limit the boost on stock turbo 11-14 trucks to 24-27 psi.

The 2015+ trucks have a much better turbo and an upgraded high pressure fuel pump. The new pump flows roughly 10% more fuel. The early 2011 trucks had cracking valve and glow rod issues but it wasn't wide spread.

My 2011 has been a good truck, I've replaced the secondary water pump because it was leaking, and I've replaced the low pressure fuel pump because it died (these trucks are designed to shut off when the low pressure pump fails)

I do all of my own maintenance, the motor craft fuel filters are $54 on Amazon and it takes about 15 minutes to replace them. One is located underneath on the frame rail and the other is under the hood next to the dipsticks. I do my own oil changes as well, I run Delo LE full synthetic, it's about $20/gallon at Wal-Mart and motor craft oil filter is around $15 at Wal-Mart as well. I change the oil/filter and fuel filters every 7500 miles.

You do not have to pull the cab to work on the 6.7, I have spent quite a bit of time under the hood of mine, I upgraded the turbo, high pressure fuel pump, and quite a few other odds and ends. My truck is custom tuned by Kory at PPEI. I am currently pushing right at 630 HP to the rear wheels. It's a blast to drive for such a big truck.

The faces on the poor kids that drive GT’s and turbo fwd cars around and you embarrass them at a red light. It’s awesome!

[Tim Powell]

I wouldn't do such a thing

[Axkiker]

Great trucks, most turbo failures were in the cab and chassis models or on tuned trucks that were pushing too much boost. Most reputable tuners will limit the boost on stock turbo 11-14 trucks to 24-27 psi.

The 2015+ trucks have a much better turbo and an upgraded high pressure fuel pump. The new pump flows roughly 10% more fuel. The early 2011 trucks had cracking valve and glow rod issues but it wasn't wide spread.

My 2011 has been a good truck, I've replaced the secondary water pump because it was leaking, and I've replaced the low pressure fuel pump because it died (these trucks are designed to shut off when the low pressure pump fails)

I do all of my own maintenance, the motor craft fuel filters are $54 on Amazon and it takes about 15 minutes to replace them. One is located underneath on the frame rail and the other is under the hood next to the dipsticks. I do my own oil changes as well, I run Delo LE full synthetic, it's about $20/gallon at Wal-Mart and motor craft oil filter is around $15 at Wal-Mart as well. I change the oil/filter and fuel filters every 7500 miles.

You do not have to pull the cab to work on the 6.7, I have spent quite a bit of time under the hood of mine, I upgraded the turbo, high pressure fuel pump, and quite a few other odds and ends. My truck is custom tuned by Kory at PPEI. I am currently pushing right at 630 HP to the rear wheels. It's a blast to drive for such a big truck.


Bone stock on 18's w/ 33's, I was seeing 18 on the interstate, tuned/deleted was around 20, tuned/deleted w/ turbo upgrades was 21.5...then I switched to stock 20's w/ 35x12.50's and my mileage dropped to 18, now with the upgraded fuel pump and updated tuning I am seeing 18.5 on the interstate empty.

One thing that has always been consistent and pretty strange is my truck gets 14 pulling my boat no matter what mods have been installed.

Did you do your delete ?? If so how much does that typically run if you do it yourself? Are you familiar with what type of data you can get if you have a service center pull everthing from the computer. I plan to have it checked and would love to get a history.

Yes after more research it does appear you can work on these without pulling the engine. I guess I had watched too many vids on total engine replacement. Watched a couple videos where guys were fixing the leaking turbo hose which is under the intakes. Guy was able to pull it all apart and reassemble in under and hour. Saw another guy pull the entire turbo in roughly 30 minutes. Made me feel a lot better as I always do my own maintenance / repairs.

[Tim Powell]

I do all of my own work, it's more of a hobby for me. It all depends on which route you go, the tuner will be the most costly item to do a basic delete. Delete tuning with SCT is around $799, Delete tuning with Ez Lynk is around $1,499 but also gives you monitoring capability with your smartphone or tablet and cloud based tuning. Again exhaust depends on the route you take, a delete pipe just removes the DPF section and that is around $150, a full 5" Stainless turbo back kit from Flo-Pro is around $500. And the EGR is the same way, a simple block is around $100 and a full delete is around $250. Take your time with the EGR bolts, they are prone to seizing up and breaking. I soaked mine in kroil for a few weeks and they still wouldn't come out, I ended up getting the engine good and warm and they came out much easier but I did have to work them in and out as the threads were gummed up with corrosion.

A Ford dealer should be able to tell you anything you want to know about the truck, service history, repairs, warranty, etc.

I will say, while you do not have to lift the cab to do repairs, the turbo will not come out without some wiggling and cussing. It's a very tight fit. It hits the lower windshield cowl...and I would plan on that job taking more than 30 minutes

[Chopper]

I'm not trying to rob this thread but with all the discussions here about to delete or to not delete and how it can effect the warranty not to mention that I personally don't understand the entire delete concept, why not just get a GMC 2500 with the duramax and the allison transmission and avoid all the complex and costly issues? Or do they too have similar issues?

I've pretty much always been a Ford man but you guys scare me with all this discussion. I'm about to retire and I'm on the fence as to go with the Ford power stroke or the GMC duramax. Once I retire I won't be able to afford costly repairs and all that talk about delete and what it does, so I got to have something reliable and won't require me to spend 3 to 4k$ After the warranty expires just to get it to run better and more economically.

Any advice?

[Axkiker]

I do all of my own work, it's more of a hobby for me. It all depends on which route you go, the tuner will be the most costly item to do a basic delete. Delete tuning with SCT is around $799, Delete tuning with Ez Lynk is around $1,499 but also gives you monitoring capability with your smartphone or tablet and cloud based tuning. Again exhaust depends on the route you take, a delete pipe just removes the DPF section and that is around $150, a full 5" Stainless turbo back kit from Flo-Pro is around $500. And the EGR is the same way, a simple block is around $100 and a full delete is around $250. Take your time with the EGR bolts, they are prone to seizing up and breaking. I soaked mine in kroil for a few weeks and they still wouldn't come out, I ended up getting the engine good and warm and they came out much easier but I did have to work them in and out as the threads were gummed up with corrosion.

A Ford dealer should be able to tell you anything you want to know about the truck, service history, repairs, warranty, etc.

I will say, while you do not have to lift the cab to do repairs, the turbo will not come out without some wiggling and cussing. It's a very tight fit. It hits the lower windshield cowl...and I would plan on that job taking more than 30 minutes

Good info man.

My ideal plan is for the turbo to last as is forever lol. I dont plan on hot rodding anything I only want reliability. Reading that removing the emissions crap can really help the cause. .

[BigSexyPhoenix]

I'm not trying to rob this thread but with all the discussions here about to delete or to not delete and how it can effect the warranty not to mention that I personally don't understand the entire delete concept, why not just get a GMC 2500 with the duramax and the allison transmission and avoid all the complex and costly issues? Or do they too have similar issues?

I've pretty much always been a Ford man but you guys scare me with all this discussion. I'm about to retire and I'm on the fence as to go with the Ford power stroke or the GMC duramax. Once I retire I won't be able to afford costly repairs and all that talk about delete and what it does, so I got to have something reliable and won't require me to spend 3 to 4k$ After the warranty expires just to get it to run better and more economically.

Any advice?

GMC trucks with the Duramax have emissions equipment that would have to be deleted just like the others. If you own a newer diesel you have to live with the emissions equipment or delete them.

[Tim Powell]

I'm not trying to rob this thread but with all the discussions here about to delete or to not delete and how it can effect the warranty not to mention that I personally don't understand the entire delete concept, why not just get a GMC 2500 with the duramax and the allison transmission and avoid all the complex and costly issues? Or do they too have similar issues?

I've pretty much always been a Ford man but you guys scare me with all this discussion. I'm about to retire and I'm on the fence as to go with the Ford power stroke or the GMC duramax. Once I retire I won't be able to afford costly repairs and all that talk about delete and what it does, so I got to have something reliable and won't require me to spend 3 to 4k$ After the warranty expires just to get it to run better and more economically.

Any advice?

They all have the same issues from emission equipment. I will say the newer trucks are finally getting the emission equipment dialed in and it's nothing like it was back in 2007-2014.

Ive owned 3 duramax trucks, 1 6.7 Cummins truck, and now a 6.7 Power Stroke.

[Tim Powell]

Good info man.

My ideal plan is for the turbo to last as is forever lol. I dont plan on hot rodding anything I only want reliability. Reading that removing the emissions crap can really help the cause. .

The turbo issues were more prevalent in the cab and chassis trucks, I replaced mine because I wanted more power. Stay off the hot tunes and keep the boost limited to 24-27 psi in the tune and the stock turbo will last much longer.

[Axkiker]

The turbo issues were more prevalent in the cab and chassis trucks, I replaced mine because I wanted more power. Stay off the hot tunes and keep the boost limited to 24-27 psi in the tune and the stock turbo will last much longer.

Probably a dumb question but what does " cab and chassis trucks" mean ??? Dont all trucks have a cab and chassis ????

[grout-scout]

I'm not trying to rob this thread but with all the discussions here about to delete or to not delete and how it can effect the warranty not to mention that I personally don't understand the entire delete concept, why not just get a GMC 2500 with the duramax and the allison transmission and avoid all the complex and costly issues? Or do they too have similar issues?

I've pretty much always been a Ford man but you guys scare me with all this discussion. I'm about to retire and I'm on the fence as to go with the Ford power stroke or the GMC duramax. Once I retire I won't be able to afford costly repairs and all that talk about delete and what it does, so I got to have something reliable and won't require me to spend 3 to 4k$ After the warranty expires just to get it to run better and more economically.

Any advice?

Don't buy a diesel if you don’t need one then, this will be my last one unless they ditch the emissions crap.

[Tim Powell]

Probably a dumb question but what does " cab and chassis trucks" mean ??? Dont all trucks have a cab and chassis ????

Cab and chassis would be the trucks sold without a bed or with service/utility/flat beds. They have less power and a different turbo setup.

[Axkiker]

Cab and chassis would be the trucks sold without a bed or with service/utility/flat beds. They have less power and a different turbo setup.

Ahhhh heck never knew that. Makes me feel better.

[stockrex]

Diesel shops around here refuses to do any delete since they passed the fed law.

[Chadsc]

I enjoyed mine while i had it. It was a '12 with about 110 when i got rid of it. Next truck will be another 6.7, but ive been looking for another 6.0 hard so we will see.