Is there a clear or yellowing sleeve over the small black roller the opens the carbs? I can't tell from the video, with the sleeve on the overall diameter of the carb roller is approximately 3/8 inch. These sleeves crack and fall off, it needs to be there. Yes on the synk and link, your missing the point, maybe Fred can help.
Thank you Jerry, I do not think this roller has the sleeve you mention I will double check tomorrow afternoon but pretty sure it does not have it...is it that roller I marked with an arrow in the pic?.........how's the weather up there?
Regards,
Ivan
I finally figured out what I didn't like about where your idle tab ended up. I am so used to the V6 motors with 6 degrees ATDC idle timing and where those tabs end up, that I didn't consider that 4 degrees ATDC would be a detent or two different.
man your tool was of a great help!!....thank you again!!
Yep that's the roller, if your local dealer doesn't have the sleeve, apiece of 3/8 clear vinyl hose from the hardware will work. You might have to resynk the carbs and timing when you get the sleeve. The next time you drop your lower unit, just shift a little into forward gear you won't have to take off the shift cable to move the linkage.
Thank you Sr!....I think I have some tubing around my shed...can't wait to get home!....thank you very much!
Good morning. the weather hear has been dry and warmer than normal, only windy out of the north up to 40 MPH. I'm working on my 5th wheel camper, I'm replacing all of the lights with LED's, sealing the roof seam, I have no brakes, repack wheel bearings. I had so many health issues that it set in storage 6 years, I don't know what still works. Getting ready for the spring fishing. I figure that the Bass population should be at an all time high, with me not fishing.
lot of work but I am totally sure it will payoff at the end...LED lights will make a huge difference...the Bass do not know what's awaiting them!!..lol
down here is been wonderful for a couple of days such nice weather to be outdoors...we are in mid 50 in the morning and 60's afternoon
...back to work now...!!!
regards
Ivan, have you moved the fuel inlet hose from the tank directly to the inlet side of the fuel pump and tested thus bypassing the vapor tank?? Those worm drive hose clamps aren't really the best thing to use on plastic fittings. They do make a ratchet clamp or a zip tie that has a curved end on it to keep air intrusion to a minimum.
Thank you Fred!...yes I did tried connecting the pump straight with the tank fuel line as per your recommendation earlier on this thread and saw no changes, same symptoms...
regarding the clamps I am planning to remove them all once or "If"...I get the engine to run, I have the ties you mentioned but with these whole ordeal disconnecting the lines, removing carbs...I wasted a few of them and left a few for when the engine is finally good to go....man one of my neighbors across the lake has this flats boat with a very old 30HP Johnson...that thing runs like new, he says he only does the basics like every year or so....those engines cannot be killed!...
Today I found a piece of plastic vinyl tubing and placed it over the cam roller as Jerry stated but I did not have a chance to test because it was getting dark and, the kids homework..etc...and I have to redo the carb sync and timing again.....once I revisit it I will post back again......you guys rock!!!!
Thank you very much
Ivan
Gents, I have had no time during the last few days in between my work and the kids to check timing and adjust linkage again. I am planning to do so over the weekend. I also would like to check the remote cables adjustment as it looks like I have no much space for the trunions to move around, I am planning to check the cables length first following the "cable install guide" per the manual but I have a question if I may....the included pic is from the service manual and I highlighted the text I do not understand and hope I am not bugging too much again....can someone explain what this lever they mention is?....it looks like my handle does not have this...is this the throttle handle they are referring to?
Thanks folks!!
You don't have that lever. It is for a side mount control box that has a separate lever. Your warm up lever is engaged by pulling the shift handle out to the left and moving it forward as we discussed. Your shift linkage is out of adjustment. the silver arm should be parallel to the seam of the crank case. Remove the cable end to the linkage move the silver arm forward a bit and spin the prop with your foot with the motor not running. Shift between F and R at the motor while spinning the prop then back to neutral. Then install the cable end on the linkage and adjust the trunion so it fits into the cradle with no binding.
Thank you Sr!...can't wait for Saturday....
Regards,
Ivan
Champion...thank you once more....and please forgive my ignorance...so the text I highlighted means in my case to move the throttle all the way up?
regarding the position of that silver arm I always was suspicious of its alignment, I guess the other day I tried positioning it more to the center and the gear is still in neutral as the propeller spins freely; however, I can hear like the gears are touching each other.......man this thing is getting more complicated the more I dig in....lol
I would hate to have to adjust Rod height again since I strictly followed the service manual when changing the o-ring and casing and gave it the exact height the books says......I used the metal yard method and a drill bit a mechanic posted in youtube.......do you think if the height does not allow me to get the arm in center I could just turn the shift rod in just one time and try?..it will not have the recommended height now but just wondering....
Thank you!!
Just adjust your shift control cable. Disconnect it from the silver linkage arm. Spin the prop with your foot while shifting between neutral and forward and neutral and reverse. Do this a few times and finally back to neutral. If the shift rod height is adjusted to spec then the linkage arm will be parallel to the seam of the front and back half of the block. Then loosen the trunion cap and adjust the cable using the trunion knob. Easy peasy.
Thank you Sr!...tomorrow I will have free time to go over yours and Jerry's latest recommendation...will let everyone know!...
Thank you once again!..
regards
just out of curiosity... have you had this motor in the water running before? Reason I ask, is on my V4, i had the same issue with the motor sounding exactly the same, and it was caused by accidentally having the port bank powerpack to coil plugs reversed - it was only running on two cylinders. Ran ok without any back pressure on the motor with the fast idle lever up, but wouldnt idle
2022 Hog Island Skiff
Johnson 70/40 jet
Bouncin' off rocks, and catching the smallies.
Potomac River Smallmouth Guide
Owner of Potomac Custom Tackle
Josh, thank you for your recommendations. I have not had this boat in the water yet, at least since I started repairing it. Just Today I rechecked and re-adjusted all linkage and readjusted the timing again after placing a vinyl sleeve on the cam roller as per one of the master techs advised me here in this forum. The engine starts goes up in rev and then goes back trying to idle but stalls, I can keep it running rough and coughing once in a while by pushing the key in when it's about to die which makes you think is fuel not getting into intake; however, the carbs are full if checked....man this is driving me nuts...Today I also made an observation the two cylinders on port side get hotter than the ones on starboard, once side can be touched and it is warm, the other side is much more hotter.....
I had some issues before with the coils as well, on side was not pushing enough juice for a 7/16 open air spark jump but that was fixed with a new OMC coil.....If I only knew a good mech around my area....perhaps someone knowledgeable just like Fred and Jerry here I'd pay without thinking.......I have a neighbor who just paid 400 bucks for service and his engine still has issues, he does not recommend his mechanic.
Tomorrow I will try to get another Video because it looks like the sleeve Jerry advised me to place and the readjustment of timing/linkage made it running better...but still dies....
Thank you
regards
Last edited by bluecrab; 12-16-2017 at 03:41 PM.
Ivan, If we don't get this issue ironed out online. I may be down in Fort Lauderdale area in the Jan/Feb time line. I would be glad to come by your house and see if we can get this beast up and running for you.
Thank you Fred!...much appreciated, you got yourself a great customer down here.....
Regards,
Ivan
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