OMG internal server error. im not rewriting all that
is it ok to have the motor heavy wires for starting to run off a different battery than the main wires that run all the console/ignition and all that?
and which set of wires are the charging wires? the heavy gauge wires that run to starter or the main smaller ignition/electronics wires?
What outboard do you have?
You can run two batteries, but it can overload your outboard charging system.
Charging and cranking are the same wires.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
its an old 25 hp mariner.
Ill explain the issue further tomorrow my head is killing me
wow i cant post my long bullshit for some reason
wow im glad i copy/pasted my writing this time
it wont let me post. asks me if i want to leave or stay. wont post
server error trying to insert code. weird
Last edited by JonNovak; 12-05-2017 at 06:54 PM.
Ok, so here goes. remember this is a 16ft small tin boat with 25hp.
had 3 batteries on for a while. 2 - 29's deep cycle, 12 volt troller with perko battery selector (usually run on both),
one 24 dual purpose for starting and all that jive.
I removed the 24 dual purpose battery because the little extra weight sucked.
So i really want the 3rd battery back so threw it in the small enclosed tip i used for storing stuff. I connect 6 gauge to a dual bank magna sized fuze block right at the battery. i run the old trolling motor (8 gauge) to one of the blocks "out" side then to the new perko on/off switch in the back of the boat, and use the other "out" side of fuze block for connecting stuff up front. I put a new 6 gauge run for the trolling motor to the back of the boat just because someday i may want to go 24 volt.
Now i connect everything that normally would connect to the starting battery, to the on/off switch. the motor, the console everything. now i try to turn over the motor and it wont turn the flywheel much at all. sounds like the starter is weak. meanwhile the elite 7ti at the console, its screen goes black but comes back on when i release the attempt to turn over the motor.
Im thinking weak starter, battery going bad even though its like one year old BPS brand, and its testing all fine before i put it back in. im thinking the 8 gauge wire with long run, im also thinking the perko switch maybe. maybe its the starter. battery is good. The motor used to start off this battery when i had it in the back of the boat and connected directly to the motor.
at this point im thinking WTF. started to eliminate things. so i connected the motor directly to the trolling motor deep cycle battery where the wires for the motor are and the starter spun the flywheel like it was on steroids.
so i started thinking the wire from up front is undersized .... whatever. before running off to replace it with 6 gauge i decided to do more playing.
i dont want anything on the boat to have power without running thru a switch, sooooo i connected the motor into the trolling motor perko selector switch.. guess what the heck happened???????? the starter again struggled to turn over the motor. it seemed to struggle for a second then kicked up and went like it was fully powered again.
ok, so running the motor thru one of these switches is just CRAP ... i guess it needs full battery contact as close as possible!!!
SOOOOOOOOOOO, ok i forgot something, let me back up. when i had the motor connected to the dual purpose (front 24 size) battery/switch setup, i had it connected to the out so it would only have power when switch was on. as i wrote, that didnt work out great. i removed it from the swtich "out" and connected it the "in" side, so at this point it was connected dirrecly to the front battery with only a 80 amp fuse, followed by a change to 100 amp fuse. SAME RESULT. like starter was weak or something.
Now this all lead to where i am now. i have to connect the motor directly to the deep cycle at the back of the boat. one of the trolling motor batteries! no way to use a switch. ok fine.
Now i have the other wires for console, pumps, lights and all that jive hooked into the front battery. i even made a new run to console for electronics because i just dont want issues.
that led me to the question of having the outboard starter system wires (the big ones) connected to a different battery than the house wires(the little ones). console, pumps, lights, electronics and stuff.
now back to the trolling motor, switch and motor. i dont want to crank the starter off one deep cycle battery. so now it seems i have to eliminate the perko battery selector switch and run with my 2 trolling motor batteries on or off with that switch. so now i have both battery + connected to the "out" side of the switch and the motor connected to one of the batteries. so now the switch is disconnecting my trolling motor but my batteries are always connected to each other and the motor, and now i can not isolate them when connected to the onboard charger.
Im beyond frustrated. i guess these perko switches suck by adding resistance. I guess a lot of things suck because this should be more simple to do
Whew. My head hurts too. It sounds like you have a 12 volt trolling motor with two size 29 batteries that are connected in parallel with a switch if you feel like it. That circuit should nave nothing in common with your starting battery which from what I read, you had removed at one time but reinstalled, a 24 size battery. Since you have a tin boat, your motor negative is common with the hull of the boat. That shouldn't come into play at this time but it is the way it is. The large positive and negative wires from your motor must now connect to the positive and negative of the size 24 battery. Those same wires usually charge the starting battery depending on the style motor. If you have a boat built in charger there will be small leads from it to the starting battery, one to each post. All of the gauges, graphs and bilge pumps and lights should run off the start battery. There should not be any connection between the two size 29 batteries and the motor battery or the boat hull, except for an emergency start switch which may or may not be present.
If you have the motor hooked to the series 24 battery and it won't start, you probably have a bad battery, starter, or too small of wires to the size 24 battery.
For the record, last time I had the 24 size dual purpose battery in and setup it was in the back and the motor was connected directly to the battery.
I have 2 chargers. One small one in front with the 24 dual purpose battery. A dual bank in rear connected to the 2 29 deep cycle batteries.
I have a portable smart charger that I also use to recondition batteries and test. It tests normal. I have not load tested it yet. That's my next step.
On a 16 foot run from front to back, I'm probably gonna need 2 gauge wire. That's not gonna happen. It probably won't work anyways. I can barely fit the 24 up front so moving it the back and the 2 29,s to the front can't happen. Maybe I should run everything off one of the 29's and put the 24 up front on with the other 29 for the trolling motor.
If I can't leave the little battery up front then I can't keep it on the boat.
i just moved the 24 dual purpose battery to the back, connected the motor. there is a bit (1 sec maybe) of hesitation on the starter and then spins well after that. voltage drops into the 10 volt range initially and goes up into the 11 volt range while the motor is cranking over. it recovers very nicely when i stop cranking. so it seem like i need to run 2 gauge wire from the front where the battery needs to live ...... but wait
are my 4 graphs going to blink off when cranking? im sick of doing stuff that gets me a bullet in my foot
getting 404 error when trying to post here. Hmmmmmm
no worry i ripped everything apart again. im going back to just dual 29's
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