When I replaced the batteries in mine, the pedal would power up. I would then turn it off. It would still drain the batteries. The switch has solved that problem.
When I replaced the batteries in mine, the pedal would power up. I would then turn it off. It would still drain the batteries. The switch has solved that problem.
Thanks for the reply and link. Have placed an order...
2019 Bass Cat Eyra
Mercury 250 Pro SX
4 Stroke 2B591496
One thing to consider if you are installing a switch in the location that I used.(at the rear of the pedal base) There is very little room, so measure carefully, and try to get the switch as high as possible. If you mount it too low, the base plate will hit the switch when you screw it back on.
Wow, thanks for the info....I just ordered a switch. Is there anything else that I will need?
I have been know to screw up fairly easy projects, so any more pointers will be mucho appreciated! How are you attaching the wires to the switch?
thanks again alabamaphoenix
You will need a short piece of wire(tinned preferably) to splice the switch into the battery wire. I soldered all of the connections and covered them with heat shrink tubing. Be very careful not to get things too hot. this is how I did it. Remove the battery compartment cover and then remove the cover plate from the bottom of the pedal.
In the battery compartment, I used a small screwdriver to slide the terminal on the red wire up and removed it. I then cut the red wire to splice in the wires from the switch. Then, just slide the terminal back down in the compartment. You will need a really small switch, and be very careful cutting the hole. I used a step bit. I also put several layers of tape over the circuit board to protect it while drilling the hole. Mounting the switch is the hardest part. There isn't much room, that's why you need the really small switch. Mount it as high as you can, if you use the location that i did. You can also mount the switch with the terminals toward the circuit board. That will give you a little more room when you re-attach the bottom plate to the pedal. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can help further.
Last edited by alabamaphoenix; 12-14-2017 at 10:07 AM.
I modified mine in almost the exact same way as alabamaphoenix except i un-soldered the wire from the battery terminal and ran that wire under the circuit board and soldered it to one terminal of the switch. I then soldered a new wire to the battery terminal and ran that wire under the circuit board and soldered it to the second terminal of the switch. Heed his warning regarding mounting the switch as high as possible in order for the switch to have enough clearance between it and the bottom plate. I also used a step drill for the hole and the final hole size was 3/4" for the switch I used. The switch I used also had a plastic locking tab on each side of the switch which I cut off with a pair of dikes because I didn't want to enlarge the hole to accommodate them. The switch is a tight fit so is not going anywhere even without the tabs. There is also an alignment ridge on the side of the switch which prevents it from rotating in the hole. I used a small file to create a notch in the hole to line up with the ridge.
Last edited by mak747; 12-15-2017 at 11:05 AM.
Thanks guys, I really do appreciate it
Any way to add a power wire and a diode to reduce power from 12 volt battery supply to the aa battery voltage.
JEFF MURRAY USMC
RANGER Z521C & 15 VERADO PRO 250
DEEP CREEK LURES and ROSE JIGS
GREENFISH TACKLE and ALX RODS
I understand wireless but I was told the AA batteries don’t last long even if you power the pedal off etc, I’ve ran a few and did not use all day to see how long they last but want to see if I could make a separate battery box to get to batteries easier if they get low bad etc, also I don’t want to have to unscrew pedal every time. I have a few Tour 109 left on shelf and was buying a XI5 when ordered the boat but was scared of battery life in pedal. We fish a lot of current and stump fields. If batteries die it’s critical to move boat. I know you can use the fob and lowrance gateway.
How long do u get on a set of batteries?
JEFF MURRAY USMC
RANGER Z521C & 15 VERADO PRO 250
DEEP CREEK LURES and ROSE JIGS
GREENFISH TACKLE and ALX RODS
Not everyone has had a problem. I've got 2 seasons out of my batteries so far.
I do cary spare batteries but haven't had to use them.
You can just use the remote if you didn't have a pedal. It sucks for anyone thats had to deal with it.. souds like a easy fix MG should be taking care of.
" Talking to you is like clapping with one hand "
Anthrax
I had the same problem, would go through batteries every 2 weeks. Dropped my pedal off for warranty and the service tech called to motorguide and replaced all the internal electrical parts. ( I believe it comes as one assembly) since then I hadn't had to replace batteries, checked it out one last time before boat went into storage, pedal turned on just fine.
Nice fix by the way. If mine acts up again I'll do this. Having a physical on/off switch is nice feature.
JEFF MURRAY USMC
RANGER Z521C & 15 VERADO PRO 250
DEEP CREEK LURES and ROSE JIGS
GREENFISH TACKLE and ALX RODS
" Talking to you is like clapping with one hand "
Anthrax
________
$8
I understand and agree with you. But, MK is not without issues either. I do wish Motorguide would step up and take care of the problem.
Thanks for the information. I went to Amazon with your link and did browse around and ran across the same style switch with a waterproof cap. I placed an order for the waterproof cap thinking that I'm out in the rain sometimes and it is a marine grade switch.
P/N JFWBS00007
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2019 Bass Cat Eyra
Mercury 250 Pro SX
4 Stroke 2B591496
Finally got to the lake and added the switch to my pedal. my soldering skills are a joke, but I finally got it done (luckily had the 5 pack of switches, the warning about getting things too hot are valid)
Thanks again to all that have contributed
Darrel