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  1. #1
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    Reverse Solenoid Replacement

    Has anyone ever changed the lockout solenoid on their trailer. I have a 2015 E-Z Loader with a A60 actuator. My breaks are locking up when I try to back up. I've checked the fuses on the truck and I am getting power to my middle pin. Just curious if it is an easy fix. I know I need to bleed the breaks afterwards.

    Any tips to make it easier is much appreciated.

    Torrey
    Torrey Aiken

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    Before you change it, get a jumper wire and ground the solenoid housing itself. If you look at the way the actuator is made, most solenoids don't have a good mechanical connection to ground. There is usually a threaded hole on the solenoid for grounding it.

    Changing them is no big deal. Some trailers you can get to it without taking anything apart. Others you may have to pull the actuator to reach it.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    If it was my trailer I would do a lot of checks before I changed that solenoid.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Thanks for the advice. I will triple check everything before taking it apart.
    Torrey Aiken

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    #5
    One quick check. With an ohmmeter, touch one probe to metal body of solenoid, other end to the ground wire on the trailer side of the connector (white wire, trailer side connector should have a white wire that comes out of it and usually is wired to a stud connected to the trailer frame). If you have no continuity, you have a ground problem that needs to be addressed. Power to the blue wire does nothing unless there is a solid low-resistance return path to the ground side of the truck's electrical system. I have seen more problems with this one thing than everything else combined when someone reports lockups when backing up. If you ever notice your trailer lights flickering as you drive down the road, that is further confirmation that your ground is probably going through the hitch itself which is also bad.

    If you examine the ground path on a60's, it is pretty bad if that ground wire from the solenoid is NOT present. The ground is from the solenoid, through the master cylinder to the inner member through the roller pins and those steel rollers to the outer member. Not a very solid connection. Add grease, oil, dust and road crud and it can be no ground at all for the solenoid.
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by OldTimer57 View Post
    One quick check. With an ohmmeter, touch one probe to metal body of solenoid, other end to the ground wire on the trailer side of the connector (white wire, trailer side connector should have a white wire that comes out of it and usually is wired to a stud connected to the trailer frame). If you have no continuity, you have a ground problem that needs to be addressed. Power to the blue wire does nothing unless there is a solid low-resistance return path to the ground side of the truck's electrical system. I have seen more problems with this one thing than everything else combined when someone reports lockups when backing up. If you ever notice your trailer lights flickering as you drive down the road, that is further confirmation that your ground is probably going through the hitch itself which is also bad.

    If you examine the ground path on a60's, it is pretty bad if that ground wire from the solenoid is NOT present. The ground is from the solenoid, through the master cylinder to the inner member through the roller pins and those steel rollers to the outer member. Not a very solid connection. Add grease, oil, dust and road crud and it can be no ground at all for the solenoid.

    I checked last night and the solenoid did not have a ground wire. I attached a ground wire to the solenoid and feed it through the hitch and attached it to the trailer side ground stud. It was late so I plan on testing it today. Thanks for the info. I'll let you know if it works.
    Torrey Aiken

  7. Member Iowa Bass Hunter's Avatar
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    #7
    I replaced mine. Also added a ground wire. My wire came out of my original solenoid. Like the solder job wasn't very good. I recommend replacing the plastic bushings on the pins while you have it apart.

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    #8
    Update!!! As of right now, adding a ground wire has corrected the issue. Not really sure how it worked fine for 2 years without a ground wire, but whatever.
    Torrey Aiken

  9. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TAiken View Post
    Update!!! As of right now, adding a ground wire has corrected the issue. Not really sure how it worked fine for 2 years without a ground wire, but whatever.
    You just have steel touching steel acting as a conductor. A little rust and things don't work.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  10. Member
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    #10
    I added a ground to my trailer when i replaced mine 2 years back.