Breaking the wire couple on a mercury

[BMCD]

I have a problem on my z21 where I have broken the wire coupler on the outboard. This is the plastic piece on the motor that your rigging tube attaches too due to trimming up too far.

Looking for something to resolve this issue.

This is with a manual slidemaster.

[bison2312]

How far back is the rigging coupling broke? If you are mechanically inclined to pull all the connections off the motor and replace the coupling the part number is 843185T02 and cost like $35 at Performance Product Technologies. If there is enough meat on the coupling to tighten a hose clamp then maybe you can cut a rubber coupling lengthwise to get it around the broke coupling and rigging tube and tighten the clamps, if that makes sense. Neither of these have I tried, just trying to throw out ideas.

[Jig_Man]

I'd try through my dealer or BPS service center in Springfield, MO.

[BMCD]

It broke out the lower section completely. Have to get a new one. Bison that is what I'm looking for ideas. When I trim up to get motor stick on it pushes the rigging tube into the fiberglass.

[bison2312]

I get it, thought you were looking for repair ideas. You must travel with your motor trimmed higher than mine to have to raise it that much to put the transom saver on. My transom saver is set similar to the one in this picture, or maybe a notch more on the saver.

[BMCD]

I use the motor sticks.

[potomacbassin]

You can buy a replacement for about $10 on Amazon. Just replaced mine about a month ago. Super easy to do and about a 10 minute fix. Not to start the endless debate on transom savers, but I use the motormate... just switched to it a couple months ago and will never go back. Good luck.

[BMCD]

$10 bucks, I cannot find it for that price. If it was that cheap i'd buy 5 and deal with it.

[Jigman78]

And you can go to a plumbing supply house and buy that same coupling for about 5$. Its called a Fernco coupling.

[potomacbassin]

I guess your coupler must be different than mine on my 175. Mine has a top and a bottom and I just checked my order from earlier in the year and it was $13.96 for the bottom piece. I order the top half as well so it was $28 total. Thought yours would be the same. If you order the part pictured above, how are you going to get all the fuel, oil, and electric lines run through it out of curiosity?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BMCD]

Well I would cut it.

[moetorola]

There should be a top and a bottom piece, two screws holds them in. Had to remove them on a 2017 Triton with 2017 250proxs, to look for possible crimped fuel hose issue.

Should not have to undo rigging to replace.

[potomacbassin]

There should be a top and a bottom piece, two screws holds them in. Had to remove them on a 2017 Triton with 2017 250proxs, to look for possible crimped fuel hose issue.

Should not have to undo rigging to replace.

Yeah that’s what we were saying

[moetorola]

There should be a top and a bottom piece, two screws holds them in. Had to remove them on a 2017 Triton with 2017 250proxs, to look for possible crimped fuel hose issue.

Should not have to undo rigging to replace.

After looking at his boat, it appears it is one piece. I think we just slid it down to inspect the fuel lines.

His I believe was this on his 2017 mercury 250proxs
http://www.southcentraloutboards.com...6a01-27767-osp

[BMCD]

Yes the original part is 2 pieces. The bottom part keeps breaking out. If I were to uses a flex joint as pictured above I would cut it to get it around the wires.

[Silas79]

Brian,

Mercury does make a trim limiter if that could help resolve your problem.

[BMCD]

Nah, cause I need to raise it to get the motor sticks on it. I put on a new part 2 weeks ago, I cut it at an angle and wrapped in electrical tape. seems to be holding for now.

The bottom piece was basically clipped in, no screws, so i think it was getting pulled out when i trim up. Thinking the electrical tape will help prevent it.

[Triton03Vance]

Nah, cause I need to raise it to get the motor sticks on it. I put on a new part 2 weeks ago, I cut it at an angle and wrapped in electrical tape. seems to be holding for now.

The bottom piece was basically clipped in, no screws, so i think it was getting pulled out when i trim up. Thinking the electrical tape will help prevent it.

I second the tilt limit module..you can program it to stop at any place you want it to..i put one on my Basscat and set it to stop right before the coupler hits the fiberglass..also is a nice feature if fishing partner wants to help by putting on motor support and doesnt stop tilting before it smashes the coupler..i believe it was around $125.00 installed..

[5dinkbass]

I've had the problem of the coupler smacking against the hull too, but havent broken it. Everytime I raise it I keep an eye on it not to do it again

[BMCD]

I will add that this will wear the gel coat down, whenever the tubing hits the gel coat. I have added clear plastic vinly in these spots so it does not hurt the gel coat.

So far so good, with my latest modification. cut the bottom piece at an angle and wrapped both pieces together with electrical tape. the rigging hose stays on nice and tight now, and I have not broke the coupler.