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  1. #1
    Member JBigBoss's Avatar
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    Transducer Mounting tips help needed Dragonfly 7 Pro

    The old spot where my Lowrance transducer sadly was mounted wont work for my Raymarine transducer. I loose depth while on plane.

    Any tips tricks advice on where to mount?

    what about mounting it to my jackplate?

    heres a pic of the back of my boat.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    "The Green Machine!"


    1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
    1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
    4 Blade Trophy 24P

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    #2
    Pics Below.
    Last edited by Stickmarsh2000; 11-22-2017 at 08:05 PM.

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    #3
    .
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    #4
    I know several people that would run these units if they could capture image on plane with stepped hull boats using this mount. I have the same issue you have so I rotated the mount 180 Degrees that came with the Dragonfly 7 pro and made some mods to strengthen it up. I modified the mount to hold the transducer and did some test mounts and trial runs. I have been able to run on plane and hold bottom image close to 45 MPH only need a 3 inch space to mount it. I'm going to machine a smaller mount out of stainless with a dove tail so I can raise and lower it with a set screw and fine tune it. I'm sure i can get more performance out of it and need less space to mount it.

  5. Member JBigBoss's Avatar
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    #5
    Nice so you just moved it to the other side and saw some improvement?

    I need a way to just tack it down, go run my boat, see results, and adjust on the fly, before I lock it down.

    i agree images on the unit are great, if I can get this one kink worked out I’ll be a happy Raymarine Man!
    "The Green Machine!"


    1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
    1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
    4 Blade Trophy 24P

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    #6
    I flipped the mount 180 degrees so it would fit into the small space I have to mount it. Flipping the base you have to slot the other side of the mount to move the locking cam over so it will lock into the transducer teeth otherwise it may move upward from the water pressure. I epoxied the original slot and built up the outside where the washer is recessed and the other side where the recessed nut fits into the housing to add back some strength and just used a longer screw to secure the transducer. I epoxied it to add back the strength from cutting the slot on the other side and making the mount thinner.

  7. Member Hoover's Avatar
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    #7
    Stickmarsh I moved my boat back on the trailer so it wouldn't hit and you need to have the transducer level to the bottom

  8. Member JBigBoss's Avatar
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    #8
    whats good for holding the transducer in place while giving test runs while your trying to find that sweet spot? something like a good 3M product to tack it down with out having to screw it down.
    "The Green Machine!"


    1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
    1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
    4 Blade Trophy 24P

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    #9
    Good point noted. The pictures posted of the transducer is loose this is not the final settings or how I run it I just did a quick remount to show the idea of rotating the base. The setup I use for setting my transducers is make several measurements on the hull, the hull sits at 3 degrees in the water Idling in gear measuring from a fixed point on the hull, My hull runs at 5.2 degrees at 40 MPH same fixed point measurement on the hull and 7 degrees at 64 MPH again measuring from the same fixed point on the hull. Now I split my difference from idle degree (3) and WOT degrees (7). Then I set the boat up on the lift and raise the bow until the boat is (5) degrees measured from same fixed point again on the hull. Now I mount the transducer perfectly level port to starboard and bow to stern this gives excellent images being perfectly parallel from the hull to the lake bottom so when I see a perfect fish arch not weighted to the left or to the right I know fish are directly under the boat. I use this same setup on our offshore boat when the arches are perfect we catch fish off the starboard corner.

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by JBigBoss View Post
    whats good for holding the transducer in place while giving test runs while your trying to find that sweet spot? something like a good 3M product to tack it down with out having to screw it down.
    I made a 1 inch spacer block out of plastic and used 3M 4200 to stick it to the hull to do my test mountings to avoid additional holes in the hull. When I finished testing I took 30 pound braided line and used it like a saw between the block and the hull to remove the 3M 4200 to remove the plastic spacer.

  11. Member JBigBoss's Avatar
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    #11
    oh man genius! thank you!
    "The Green Machine!"


    1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
    1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
    4 Blade Trophy 24P