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  1. #1
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    Weird running Johnson

    Hi everyone,
    I'm in need of some help please. I am having some issues when trying to run full speed. I just changed the thermostats and that seemed to help the hole shot bog that I was having.

    My issue is when I try to get over 30 mph, it feels like the fuel is shutting off and on, infact if I push the key in to choke it, it runs perfect. Is this a carb issue, jets, fuel pump??

    Please give me your thoughts, I am very thankful for the help.


    Motor is a:
    1996 JOHNSON Fast Strike 150
    J150GLEDB

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    #2
    It does sound like a fuel issue. Has the warning horn ever gone off at or near top speed? It would be a solid on signal. This would indicate a fuel restriction. If it's a over heat issue the horn would be a solid signal, but the motor would go into S.L.O.W and the rpm's would be reduced to 2500 and the motor would run rough. One sometimes problem with these motors, the main jets back out and get loose. A number 2 screw driver can be used to make them tight. They are behind the big brass screw at the bottom of the carb. Please don't be offended if you already knew that. Do you have the real OEM, OMC service manual for your motor? It's a great manual and a must have if your going to work on your motor.

  3. Member Bass AHolic's Avatar
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    #3
    the anti siphon valves still in fuel tank outlets? over time the spring and ball gets corroded and sticks? if so can knock them out , or replace with new.. I replace but its seems harder to acquire new any more.. then there is the red lever on fuel solenoid, has to be flipped in right position

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    A number 2 screw driver can be used to make them tight.
    Don't take offense to this but a #2 phillips head screwdriver?

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    #5
    No alarms... now. Last week I had a thermostat go bad and I had all the symptoms you listed and could not get any speed at all. Replaced and this is what I am left with. I do not have the manual but guess I should go ahead and pull the trigger. I will double check the main jets, how tight should they be?

    It takes a heck of a lot more than that to offend me.

    I will also check the anti syphon valves. The red lever is in correct position.

    Thank you both, I'll be back tomorrow.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by jackson_ranger View Post
    No alarms... now. Last week I had a thermostat go bad and I had all the symptoms you listed and could not get any speed at all. Replaced and this is what I am left with. I do not have the manual but guess I should go ahead and pull the trigger. I will double check the main jets, how tight should they be?

    It takes a heck of a lot more than that to offend me.

    I will also check the anti syphon valves. The red lever is in correct position.

    Thank you both, I'll be back tomorrow.

    What type of screwdriver are you going to use? Take a look at the omc/brp orifice tool and compare it to even the finest gunsmithing hollow ground screwdriver you can find. Guess some only want to ask questions

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    #7
    Ok, I'm picking up the hint here. I will see if I can track the orifice tool down.

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    A number 2 straight blade will work just fine. You just want to make sure that the high speed orifices are seated. You aren't torquing them down. If you want to plunk down $28.99 plus the ride for something you will use once or twice then by all means pick it up. The part number for the tool is 0317002.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Rude196 View Post
    Don't take offense to this but a #2 phillips head screwdriver?
    Nope, just a #2 flat, I did not say a Phillips.

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    #10
    I did a quick scan for them and found that they were about $30 so screw driver it was. I got in there and there were a couple that were barely snug. I seated them all without over torquing them.

    I went ahead and put a new bubble on the fuel line too. Is there a way I can check the old bubble to see it it was effecting anything (or would it?)?

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rude196 View Post
    What type of screwdriver are you going to use? Take a look at the omc/brp orifice tool and compare it to even the finest gunsmithing hollow ground screwdriver you can find. Guess some only want to ask questions
    Well sir, I spent several years asking customers questions to get an idea about their motor problem. I devote some time on this forum to try and help with members motor problems, asking questions is the only way I know how to get the info needed to help. As far as taking a look at the tool, I have seen one before, I probably have 3 or 4 different ones. I personally have never used a #2 screw driver, but I know it works. What is it with you guy's from KY? Has every one decided to jump on old Juggie?

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by jackson_ranger View Post
    I did a quick scan for them and found that they were about $30 so screw driver it was. I got in there and there were a couple that were barely snug. I seated them all without over torquing them.

    I went ahead and put a new bubble on the fuel line too. Is there a way I can check the old bubble to see it it was effecting anything (or would it?)?
    If the check valve in the primer bulb is bad it can cause a fuel issue. If possible only use OEM, BRP parts including the primer bulb. Check the sticky at the top of the page, you might be able to download a manual for your motor.

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    #13
    Got it, the new primer bulb is not BRP. I will get one on order and swap again.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    Well sir, I spent several years asking customers questions to get an idea about their motor problem. I devote some time on this forum to try and help with members motor problems, asking questions is the only way I know how to get the info needed to help. As far as taking a look at the tool, I have seen one before, I probably have 3 or 4 different ones. I personally have never used a #2 screw driver, but I know it works. What is it with you guy's from KY? Has every one decided to jump on old Juggie?
    I'm not trying to give you a hard time at all. I just have never seen a straight blade #2 screwdriver but have heard it mentioned here several times. Just making sure someone didn't try and use a #2 phillips and booger the orifice up. This is the best forum on this website and the help that You and many others offer is greatly appreciated.

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Rude196 View Post
    I'm not trying to give you a hard time at all. I just have never seen a straight blade #2 screwdriver but have heard it mentioned here several times. Just making sure someone didn't try and use a #2 phillips and booger the orifice up. This is the best forum on this website and the help that You and many others offer is greatly appreciated.
    I wasn't very clear on the screw driver, thanks for pointing that out.

  16. Natalie Gulbis tdt91's Avatar
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    #16
    Is the orfice you all are talking about like the one from the Oval office back in the 90's?
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by tdt91 View Post
    Is the orfice you all are talking about like the one from the Oval office back in the 90's?
    No, that orifice needs a # 1 screw driver.

  18. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #18
    Da dum dum Kish!

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    #19
    Ok, just went out on the water again. Still having the same issue. Jets are seated, new fuel primer...

    If the engine sneezes a little when idleing is the lean or thirsty carbs?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by jackson_ranger; 11-24-2017 at 06:46 PM.

  20. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #20
    Check this adjustment. http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=11790 Then check your idle screws and give them 1 turn CCW. Hold a dollar bill or a piece of paper over each carb and see the paper gets sucked in. If not a good indication of bad a bad reed.

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