I have an MK 330. Starting in the summer every time I charge my batteries I have 3 solid green lights and 1 solid red light next to a green light. All the batteries are full charged. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
I have an MK 330. Starting in the summer every time I charge my batteries I have 3 solid green lights and 1 solid red light next to a green light. All the batteries are full charged. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Thanks, for getting back. I honestly don't know if it's a D or PC. I have the manual but the boat is not here. How would I tell and what's the difference.
The most important issue right off is that the light meanings are different. The PC is a little more sophisticated.
If it's a D, a red light with a green tells you that bank has a problem. Dead battery, loose wiring, bad temp sensor or blown fuse. Easiest first step is to swap the charger leads on the problem bank with one of the other banks and see what changes.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
On mine the red light means a connection problem on that bank.
Thanks, should it state D or PC on the charger somewhere?
With the PC, you can program the banks to lead acid, gel, AGM. The D charger isn't programable
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The part number should be on the charger. Either MK330D or MK330PC. Also large PRECISION or DIGITAL on the label.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I'll look at the charger when I'm at the boat this weekend. I know it's not programmable therefor I suspect it's the 330D. I'll also swap the leads to another battery and see what happens.
I'll keep ya'll posted.
Thanks for the help.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Got a chance to diagnose the charger last weekend. Tested voltage on all batts with MM. All were hot with consistent voltage. They are taking a charge. Swapped leads and the same charging bank showed the same green/red.
Did determine the problem lies with one of the yellow fuse connectors however the fuse is not blown. The connector is tight, comparable to the others. When I firmly push both ends of the yellow connector together (as hard as I can) the red light goes off, green stays on. When I release pressure red comes back on. Ever heard of this? Any suggestions. Send back for repair?
As always many thanks in advance or your expert advice. Thank you.
Any chance the fuse has ever been replaced? Maybe with the wrong type?
I would open the fuse holder and look at the contacts and ends of the fuse for corrosion or contamination. You may be able to carefully tweak the contacts (springs?) at the ends to put more pressure on the fuse.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I'm the original owner and the fuse has never replaced fuse. I'll try what you suggested. Thanks.
Cartridge fuses are so 1960. Too many opportunities for malfunctions in a fuse holder, not the least of which is vibration.