Question for 920 owners

[Tom Edwards]

Oh, and actually it's not even the transom, as the transom is recessed from the 2 rear points of the top cap that extend beside the motor. But 'transom' is good enough.

[Tom Edwards]

Bow eye is about 3/8" away from the roller. The hinge point is 1 1/2" further forwards than the point of the bow. Using a second tape measure as a plumb bob. I'm missing the movie, so can recheck length and all tomorrow.

[DREWTICK]

Thanks for checking. Do you have the bow hook right on the roller? That might be why the other poster said his was 3" longer.

yes and my buddys 920 is the same at the bow, his garage door basically touches his trolling motor before it would the tongue

[Blue76]

yes and my buddys 920 is the same at the bow, his garage door basically touches his trolling motor before it would the tongue

Yikes. I had not considered the trolling motor sticking out. Hmmm...

[kry29]

Depending on added transducers and which way you lay the trolling motor it will stick out more or less. Plus you can adjust it up before you get home and it won't stick out, atleast any more than the bracket itself. My ultrex bracket only hangs out maybe 2". I don't have a 920 but I understand what measurement your wanting.

[GBhoss]

Just an observation.... Since you are building a bump out why do you have to have the measurement down to the inch? Personally I would add an extra foot or two to the bump out just to make things easier. Like walking around the front while the door is closed or backing in so you don't take out the new back wall.

[Blue76]

Just an observation.... Since you are building a bump out why do you have to have the measurement down to the inch? Personally I would add an extra foot or two to the bump out just to make things easier. Like walking around the front while the door is closed or backing in so you don't take out the new back wall.

Because I am not extending an area large enough for the hull. There is a walk out door in the center of one of the garage bays that I could box in for the engine to back into. It is a load bearing wall with rooms above it. Don't really want to tear the whole wall out.

That just leaves me with 20'-9" for the hull and whatever trailer / trolling motor that is sticking out in front.

I am also used to dealing with it being tight. I have to put my 188dvx in at an angle with less than 2" to spare. I have to hit the exact spot backing in or the bow will not clear when I push it over.

[Jigflipper88]

Just measured my 920. From furthest point forward (which is the tip of the trailer on mine) to the rub rail at the step on the back measured at 20’ 10.5”

[Blue76]

Just measured my 920. From furthest point forward (which is the tip of the trailer on mine) to the rub rail at the step on the back measured at 20’ 14.5”

Thanks. Just making sure that isn't a typo... does that equal 21'- 2 1/2"? And that is with the tongue folded?

[Jigflipper88]

My bad that is a typo. It’s 20’ - 10 1/2”. I read my notes wrong

[Blue76]

My bad that is a typo. It’s 20’ - 10 1/2”. I read my notes wrong

Thanks... one last question. I am considering backing the engine into an opening 5' wide and however deep it needs to be... does the back of a 920 hull have a taper or angle that would back into the 5' opening? Wall to wall I have 20' -9". My Ranger hull has a lot of angle and it would go into a 5' opening about 4 or 5".

Does that make sense?

I can't find a good overhead photo of a 920 to see the shape of the transom.

[Jigflipper88]

I’ll measure when I get home. But the above measurement was measured with the tongue folded. Tongue is still a little longer than nose of the boat

[Jigflipper88]

As you can see there’s not much angle. You will gain a little but I wouldn’t count on it. Also I could probably get 3/4” more on the trailer (anchor point not quite all the way to the roller)