Looper,,,Originally Posted by Outboard123
Looper,,,
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
It is a loop flow unless it has the d at the end of the model then it is a cross loop.
I hadnt had enough coffee yet Fred,good catch, your right.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Found the flywheel magnet orientation chart on CDI's website, the flywheel marks line up with the picture from the v4 & v6 1986-1987. But pretty sure this motor should fall under the 185/200/225 V6 1988-2001 loop charged picture. If I'm right this is a 1989 motor
Update - this motor did indeed have the wrong flywheel on it (customer had been trying to diagnose and was borrowing parts from friends and i believe he got confused with what was what) and timer base was bad. Glad i can finally move on from this one but i am curious about something moving forward, diagnosing the timer base. What is the best way to check the timer base? Even the new, good timer base disconnected and cranking had odd readings, sometimes no readings at all (going from white wire to green, purple and blue). Would love to hear how you OMC guys check the timer base and how not to. Happy Thanksgiving
I go by the factory OMC repair and service manual and with a quality multimeter that can check peak voltage/DVA.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
I just replace every ignition component out to cdi. Probably who makes the oem ignitions anyway, especially for older motors. It is at least possible to get help from cdi on their parts, try talking to brp about a 89 ignition component.
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Last edited by omcforever; 11-24-2017 at 08:31 AM.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
If you can read and have comprehension of basic trouble shooting, the OMC(BRP) service and repair manual tells you everything you need to know. The troubleshooting steps are pretty much the same for both BRP and CDI components expect for the steps of additional boxing and sending back numerous defective CDI parts.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
If you can read and have comprehension of basic trouble shooting, the OMC(BRP) service and repair manual tells you everything you need to know. The troubleshooting steps are pretty much the same for both BRP and CDI components expect for the steps of additional boxing and sending back numerous defective CDI parts.
I agree that the service manual is a must have and very helpful when troubleshooting but there's also good info that's not in the service manual that someone with expierence knows. Like I said, even the good timer base acted funny while I checked it disconnected at cranking speed but the engine started find and was running on all 6 cylinders. Some of the timer base wires would have anywhere from .5 to 1 volt and it may disssapear for a minute and come back, some wires never showed anything but I could see my DMM moving like it was seeing a very small voltage
Didn't know that CDI made flywheels?I just replace every ignition component out to cdi. Probably who makes the oem ignitions anyway, especially for older motors. It is at least possible to get help from cdi on their parts, try talking to brp about a 89 ignition component.
component was probably the wrong word. i should also state that i have never replaced oem components because i used a cdi powerpack. My experience has been purchased boat with cdi pp that lasted 8 years. Purchased brp pp from site sponsor that i believe was bad from start although they said it tested good, bought another cdi pack and it didn't resolve my issue (carb related) so i left oem pack on.
Long story short i took it to a retired independent omc tech that found my carb problem and also showed me how my pack once warmed up wasn't firing. Thats how i missed it by doing the spark test. I hope that cdi pack doesn't melt my motor but my experience with oem pp haven't been so good. Yeah, i thought the misfiring once warm would be a stator issue but it disappears when i change packs.
Sounds more like your experiences buying used powerpacks haven't been so good.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
One last flywheel question and i will officially move on, anybody ever seen a flywheel that looked good visually but was still bad? From what I understand if a flywheel is bad it will be obvious as the magnets will be broke or in the wrong position.
I get that feeling as well. As far as oem or brp pack it was in a brp box, i can share a picture if you would like. I even asked for the pack back and have switched them myself since.
The brp pack is trash. Site sponsor or i'm pretty sure anyone will not take back faulty, the problem is i had them to "test" it (thought boat ran worse and it did) and they said it was good so i did not send back to brp. That is also why i rely on this site so much but i'm just calling them as i see them. In my experience cdi is certainly more reliable than brp.
I think the price is a wash now anyway and another reason to understand that brp probably isnt putting alot of $ in older motors. I'm sure everyone has their reasons for leaning one way or the other, but to my knowledge i purchased new packs everytime.
Last edited by Rude196; 11-26-2017 at 12:40 AM.
I should also say that i don't expect BRP to spend big $ to keep these old motors alive. The amount of parts that disappear from existence from year to year is pretty drastic and sonn it will be used,cdi, or exaggerated oem. That is just my opinion though.
It is frustrating how many parts are becoming NLA, even some parts that are used a lot.
Last edited by 316jughead; 11-26-2017 at 07:59 AM.
We have said on this site many times before that genuine BRP Evinrude parts come with a 1-year parts AND labor warranty that your dealer, or any other authorized dealer can take care of.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
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