According to what you have in the way it may take that long. I know on my bullet you gotta remove the gas tank. On some rangers with the built in setback you gotta hire a small guy
According to what you have in the way it may take that long. I know on my bullet you gotta remove the gas tank. On some rangers with the built in setback you gotta hire a small guy
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
I would have thought those two manufactures would have the transom bolts secured inside so you would not have to dismantle the interior to get to them.
You need to replace those SS bolts- only torque em once. Plus according to what engine or jackplate you put on there the bolts have to be different lengths. And on top of that you need to remove them each time to properly seal the holes.
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
Have to respectfully disagree in my case..You need to replace those SS bolts- only torque em once. Plus according to what engine or jackplate you put on there the bolts have to be different lengths. And on top of that you need to remove them each time to properly seal the holes.
I suppose It's possible that it could require a different length transom bolt..
If I changed every SS bolt each time they were torqued I would be broke.
Not sure why I would need to pull a transom bolt from the inside to reseal if the bolt never moved ?? A little dab around the bolt before placing the plate on should suffice.
I won't venture a guess as to how many times I have re torqued the transom bolts and added a dab of sealant on my last two hulls..
between different motors - different j-plates -- different spacers -- wedges etc.. Lets just say I have gotten pretty good at doing it. And I re torque every now and then just to check....
IMO the OP needs to check with a different shop
Take it to eldies marine in east dubuque. He will treat you right. Great people to work with. Done lots of work for my boats. Been going to him for 20 years.
Yup he is a good guy. My brother in laws just got a new motor from them and he treated them right in every way.Originally Posted by jdwo2212
I guess us southern boy's don't understand the winter pricing up there...
Guessing you have something that will need to be removed to gain access to the bolts? If not find another shop they are screwing you over.
I think I will just buy a engine hoist at harbor freight for $99 on black Friday and do it myself, and no there is nothing blocking the bolts except for the cranking battery.
2004 Stratos 295 Pro XL
2004 Mercury 3.0 L EFI 200 HP SN: 0T908560
Standard/Servicemaster Lower 859399T13
If they can’t do that job in two hours or elsewhere. Damn, did that price include doobie breaks?
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
Two hours including unhooking it, pulling it around, and cleaning up!!
I would borrow a engine hoist and do it myself.
I would love to borrow a engine hoist but don't know anyone who owns one. There is a rental place close by but they charge $54 per day to rent one, I might as well add another $50 and buy one during black Friday.
2004 Stratos 295 Pro XL
2004 Mercury 3.0 L EFI 200 HP SN: 0T908560
Standard/Servicemaster Lower 859399T13
You can get an engine lift ring for like $20 on ebay. All new stainless bolts for transom and plate to motor run you about $30. Rent that cherry picker and you'll get'r'done for like $100.
Three would be better but it can be done with two guys- and some wood blocks -It certainly helps to have something overhead to help steady the motor.
use the trim to get the motor about right on the wood blocks -- once loosened you can move the trailer by hand and adjust height with the trailer jack.
Hey mike i certainly respect your opinion on retorque of bolts. You should replace them and the brass nylock nuts every time but sure dont have to. And as far as removing the bolts- when you remove them and theres silicone inside the hole and under the washer on the inside that silicone got there by removing the bolt and actually sealing the hole not just the outside. And when you loosen the outside you broke that seal. And im sure if your 300 has a single ram trim it takes a longer bolt on the bottom than a standard pump in clamp trim. Maybe you have been lucky they have all been standard trim and no remote pump offshore types or different brand engines
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
May have been my last Allison or a Gambler-- can't remember for sure--- I spent a half day getting to the inside transom bolts before a motor swap only to find the heads were intentionally glassed in just so you could mount anything without removing..
It happens for sure. Ive seen some aluminum stiffener plates that have a tab to keep the bolt from turning but you can still take the bolt out if you have to. That seemed to be the best ive seen
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
Price sounds high, especially if you're in this area -- However, over the years I have learned to look at the boat before I give a quote. If customer wants a hard and fast quote, sight unseen, I quote high -- but not $500.00. I'm not saying individually you can't do the job right, however, I will say the business has to make sure it's down right. Bolts not reused, everything sealed, everything put back in it's place after having to remove them (in some cases) to get to the inside part. Then you have to know if you have enough slack to get the steering cables where they need to be if the customer still has mechanical steering -- hydraulic is usually not an issue. Quoting work done in a shop is a whole lot different then you and Billy Bob doing under an oak tree with come alongs and chains. If you pay to have it done, you expect it done right and the shop carries the liability. Again, I don't see it costing $400 - $500 for labor only, I can see $250 to $300, depending on what has to be done to make the swap.
A business installers point of view.
John
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If you are in the Dubuque area contact Bobs Marine in Bellevue.
I was calling around to different marine mechanics around here to have mine installed. This was about what I was being quoted by most of them as well (the ones that knew what a jackplate was, at least...and yes, I'm serious). (EDIT note: This was with me confirming that there was enough slack in the cables, lines, etc. )
My inclination is that they just don't want to mess with it and bid it high to make you go away.
I found an equipment rental place nearby that has a towable engine hoist that I can rent for 24 hours for $40. That'll be the way mine gets installed in the spring.
Last edited by DrewFlu33; 11-22-2017 at 11:35 AM.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
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