Dedicated wiring question

[hookbender]

I am going to mount Helix 10 and 360 on bow and Helix 10 at console. Do all 3 need dedicated 10 gauge wiring direct from battery?

[CatFan]

I am going to mount Helix 10 and 360 on bow and Helix 10 at console. Do all 3 need dedicated 10 gauge wiring direct from battery?

No. Best way to go is run the dedicated 10AWG, with a fuse near the battery, to a fuse block under the console or in a storage box, and then feed the units from there. Be sure to get one that has a negative bus. The 6 circuit box with negative bus I recommend is made by Blue Seas. Model 5025. You can use your factory fuse in the block and eliminate the inline holder.

[TroyBoy30]

you can run them all individually to the battery if you wish, but like suggested above I'd add a blue sea fuse block. you can get by with slightly smaller wire size for the helix, but going larger isn't that much more expensive. Mine is over kill with 6 g from the battery and 8 g to each of my solix units

https://www.boemarine.com/products/b...76263?ref=boe2

[fishnfireman]

A single 10g would be sufficient.
Just because I had some that needed to be used I ran 8g from a dedicated electronics battery all the way to the bow then Y'd off at the console.
IMO if you run an individual wire to each unit you could get by with a lot smaller wire.
By running a single bigger gauge its easier and a lot less wire .

[hookbender]

My original plan was to run 6g from battery to a 40 amp breaker, 6g to a Blue Seas Model 5025 and 10g to each, Helix 10 and 360 on bow and Helix 10 at console (yes, overkill). Similar to the wiring on the right side (of the Blue Seas Model 5025) and a 40 amp breaker (https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB18...70_&dpSrc=srch) where the switch is on the very well thought out TroyBoy30 wiring job shown above.

My whole purpose was to prewire this to maximize voltage and minimize the chance of interference.

In some posts about the 360 said it would be OK to hook up to original switched boat circuit, indicating interference was not a concern?

I was thinking that running individual 10g (from the setup described above) to each Helix would give them enough power and as clean power as I can setup before installing.

[ifishinxs]

No. Best way to go is run the dedicated 10AWG, with a fuse near the battery, to a fuse block under the console or in a storage box, and then feed the units from there. Be sure to get one that has a negative bus. The 6 circuit box with negative bus I recommend is made by Blue Seas. Model 5025. You can use your factory fuse in the block and eliminate the inline holder.

This is how I roll. I did run 12 gauge to the bow from the fuse panel just cuz.

[Jim Dunn]

My original plan was to run 6g from battery to a 40 amp breaker, 6g to a Blue Seas Model 5025 and 10g to each, Helix 10 and 360 on bow and Helix 10 at console (yes, overkill). Similar to the wiring on the right side (of the Blue Seas Model 5025) and a 40 amp breaker (https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB18...70_&dpSrc=srch) where the switch is on the very well thought out TroyBoy30 wiring job shown above.

My whole purpose was to prewire this to maximize voltage and minimize the chance of interference.

In some posts about the 360 said it would be OK to hook up to original switched boat circuit, indicating interference was not a concern?

I was thinking that running individual 10g (from the setup described above) to each Helix would give them enough power and as clean power as I can setup before installing.

I'd say 6ga is a bit, actually alot, overkill. I ran 12ga to the consloe from the battery, fused of course. Then ran 14ga to each of 3 units. Never a problem. After all the wiring for the power cord is 18 or 22ga.

[billnorman1]

Don't forget to run a new ground too.

[JimC]

Really like the strap you use,great idea Troy

[fishnfireman]

Really like the strap you use,great idea Troy

The straps are about the best way I have found. Only thing is the cheap ones will start corroding. After replacing a couple over the years I found some that are aluminum.

[TroyBoy30]

Really like the strap you use,great idea Troy

came with the battery trays. not sure if you can find em still or not

https://www.fishntech.com/rmc_battery_mate.html

[fishnfireman]

Have always made mine... Got tired of cussing the old style that had a long threaded bolt on each side with a plastic strap across the top fastened down with wing nuts. They were not user friendly in tight places..........

[Lou r Pitcher]

I am going to mount Helix 10 and 360 on bow and Helix 10 at console. Do all 3 need dedicated 10 gauge wiring direct from battery?

No.

The very best way is to fully avoid wiring direct as that requires you remembering to switch off power both to the units and the console. That adds unneeded weight and more connections that can fail. If you ever forget to turn the added power off , you can over-discharge/damage a battery.

If you troubleshoot and fix/upgrade the section of the existing boat wiring so as to accommodate the new added loads, you will keep the boat wiring simple and only have to turn off power to the main console to successfully kill power.

[TroyBoy30]

humminbird still recommends wiring directly to the battery fyi. a fuse block is basically the same thing

[Jonestrollingmotor]

humminbird still recommends wiring directly to the battery fyi. a fuse block is basically the same thing

Wiring into a fuse block is no different than wiring into a panel master switch (except the fuse block provides over current protection that the master switch doesn't). You still have multiple connections of wires that can weaken the circuit. Most of the time, the master panel switch controls the fuse block. This means the master panel has 10ga (sometimes 8ga) coming in, then going to the fuse panel. The problem is the size wire coming out of the fuse panel. If the unit is connecting straight to the fuse panel, using the wiring harness supplied is sufficient. However, if it is connecting to another harness that connects to the fuse panel, then that harness should be larger wire (probably around a 12 or 14, depending on the run length. In the case of the latter, the larger harness should be carried as close to the unit and the supplied harness cut to a short length to change the run of "small" wire. Humminbirds also have an easily removable plug that disconnects the unit while not in use, that eliminates the need for a master power switch.
I understand that some want a separate fuse block to run the electronics from, which is OK as long as the supply wire is sufficient to carry the voltage the distance needed. Even with that, the above parameters (wire sized according to length and plug removal when not in use) should be observed.

[fishnfireman]

IMO---- a dedicated battery with heavy gauge wire all the way to the bow is simple and effective with a lot less issues .
I take the units off if the boat is going to sit for much time otherwise mine are not hard to unplug. most of my trips are for multiple days so If i'm going back out the next day I just turn them off when loading the boat.

[TroyBoy30]

Wiring into a fuse block is no different than wiring into a panel master switch (except the fuse block provides over current protection that the master switch doesn't). You still have multiple connections of wires that can weaken the circuit. Most of the time, the master panel switch controls the fuse block. This means the master panel has 10ga (sometimes 8ga) coming in, then going to the fuse panel. The problem is the size wire coming out of the fuse panel. If the unit is connecting straight to the fuse panel, using the wiring harness supplied is sufficient. However, if it is connecting to another harness that connects to the fuse panel, then that harness should be larger wire (probably around a 12 or 14, depending on the run length. In the case of the latter, the larger harness should be carried as close to the unit and the supplied harness cut to a short length to change the run of "small" wire. Humminbirds also have an easily removable plug that disconnects the unit while not in use, that eliminates the need for a master power switch.
I understand that some want a separate fuse block to run the electronics from, which is OK as long as the supply wire is sufficient to carry the voltage the distance needed. Even with that, the above parameters (wire sized according to length and plug removal when not in use) should be observed.

im talking about a dedicated fuse block totally separate of the boats wiring. mine is 6 gauge from the battery and 8 gauge to each solix 15. the solix does not have a quick disconnect and I leave my units on the boat. that's what the dedicated master power switch next to the fuse block is for. it's that big red thing in the pic above. my fuse block connects every accessory on my boat. the only thing still hard wired directly to the battery is the outboard and the bilge pump. why did we do all this? to correct this. if you want to do things the easy way, run 10 gauge directly from the battery to each unit with an inline fuse and be done with it

before and after

[Jonestrollingmotor]

im talking about a dedicated fuse block totally separate of the boats wiring. mine is 6 gauge from the battery and 8 gauge to each solix 15. the solix does not have a quick disconnect and I leave my units on the boat. that's what the dedicated master power switch next to the fuse block is for. it's that big red thing in the pic above. my fuse block connects every accessory on my boat. the only thing still hard wired directly to the battery is the outboard and the bilge pump. why did we do all this? to correct this. if you want to do things the easy way, run 10 gauge directly from the battery to each unit with an inline fuse and be done with it

I understand what and why you did it. But you did put in a disconnect as mentioned in the above post, and used wire of sufficient size for the supply wire, which is what was said in the above post. I mentioned the Humminbirds having the disconnect plug as I was talking to the OP who said he was installing Helix units. 6 and 8 is overkill for the electronics, but it certainly doesn't hurt anything. 10ga and 12ga is fine as long as connections are good.

[hookbender]

In some posts about the 360 said it would be OK to hook up to original switched boat circuit, indicating interference was not a concern?
Anyone?

[TroyBoy30]

I understand what and why you did it. But you did put in a disconnect as mentioned in the above post, and used wire of sufficient size for the supply wire, which is what was said in the above post. I mentioned the Humminbirds having the disconnect plug as I was talking to the OP who said he was installing Helix units. 6 and 8 is overkill for the electronics, but it certainly doesn't hurt anything. 10ga and 12ga is fine as long as connections are good.

12 gauge is fine for the helix, but not the onix or solix

my 360 is powered by the same blue sea fuse block, not the original boat wiring